France 1984 - Brittany
Saturday 26th August 20 miles
A cloudy, hazy start, which turned to hot sun later on, then back to cloud. We got up late and spent the morning at the campsite – all
having a go in the dinghy, which we had blown up and then having a swim.
We set off in the car to the western extreme of the peninsular to investigate one or two campsites there, but found that part rather teeming
with people and with no advantage to the site we were on, so decided to stay put and put up the rest of the tent and after lunch spent some
time getting organised and sorted out.
We went for a swim then had a shower and set off for the Co-op supermarket outside Sarzeau. Having spent quite a bit of money, we drove
off to the coast to eat the ice creams we had bought, passing the Château de Suscinio, looking much more like an English or Welsh Castle
than the ones in the Loire. We drove back into Sarzeau to find the information bureau, but it was 6.45 and closed, so we came back to the
campsite and cooked supper. It had got quite windy and chilly.
The tent all set up at St Jacques
Simon & Tom on the beach at St Jacques
Sunset at St Jacques
In the afternoon we set off for Port Navalo to find out about boat trips in the Gulf of Morbihan for Paul's birthday tomorrow. We found Port
Navalo teeming with people and cars – perhaps more as it was Sunday.
We found a praying mantis in the tent and kept it long enough to take a photo, then put it back on a bush, where it blended in completely
with the leaves.
Around Port Navalo
We then had a laugh at two young lads who came in next to us and obviously had no idea how to put a tent up!
Praying Mantis
Adrian in for a swim!
Around the tent
First try!
Not there yet!
After having a look around we drove on to Petit Mont, a hilly mound jutting out to sea by a harbour absolutely full of boats. There were
lots of people here too. We drove back to the campsite in time for supper. After supper we had a long walk along the beach westwards,
marvelling at the way caravans and tents used every available space of grassland.
It was very hot then and we set off for Port Navalo to get the boat for the tour of the Gulf of Morbihan. By now it had clouded over, and the
tour was rather marred by being a bit chilly! After 1½ hours we docked at the Isle aux Moines, where we stopped for 1½ hours. This went
very quickly, as by the time we had walked round a bit and got to a beach, the sun came out and it was very hot again. The children had a
quick swim before we raced back to catch the boat. The journey back (¾ hour) was warm and we spent the time at the front of the boat.
Adrian took a lot of ciné.
Paul on his 13th Birthday
Rosie, Tom, Paul, Adrian, Simon & Emma having lunch on Paul's 13th birthday
We arrived back at Port Navalo at 6.15, still sunny and the others all had "Mr Whippy" type icecreams.
Back at the campsite we began preparing the birthday meal of Paul's choice – chicken noodle soup, chunky chicken, sweetcorn and potato
croquettes (tiny) and then a gateau made with a sponge, with cream and strawberries. We drank – champagne type wine from the Loire.
Afterwards everyone was very full and we ran relay races on the sand dunes to wear some of it off! After exploring some more of the rocky
part of the beach, we came back to the tent.
Rosie, Simon, Emma, Tom & Paul on the boat trip Golf de Morbihan
Isle aux Moines, Golf de Morbihan
Paul, Tom, Rosie, Adrian, Simon at Isle aux Moines
Adrian, Simon, Tom, Emma & Paul eating icecreams at Port Navalo
Emma, Tom & Paul with his gateau 'birthday cake' & lighting the candles at St Jacques
Sunset on the beach at St Jacques
Tuesday 28th August 0 miles
We got up late to a morning which was cloudy, but cleared instantly to clear blue skies, as if it had been waiting for us. We spent all day at the
campsite – soaking up the sun, the occasional swim, Thomas particularly spent hours in the boat and generally being lazy.
The others had spent a long time making monopoly and Thomas spent a long time playing it. After supper we walked along the beach
eastwards, past a little harbour and then back by road to the campsite.
On the beach at St Jacques
Paul & Tom in the boat at St Jacques
Late afternoon sun at St Jacques
Wednesday 29th August 48 miles
We got up late to another beautiful day. The children played Monopoly for most of the morning, but just before lunch we all went to the
beach. The tide was quite far out, but I managed a quick swim and we went on the boat. After lunch we set off for Vannes and the
hypermarket. We had to stop first to get some money, most of which we spent on some food, drink and some new sandals for Paul. We ate
our "cornettos" in the car park, before starting back to the campsite. We took several small roads leading to the Gulf of Morbihan and at one
point we really hit the jackpot, finding a "low tide road" to the island of "Tascon". It was still low enough to cross and must be about as near
paradise has could be imagined. After lingering a little, we returned to the mainland and continued on our journey, stopping again opposite
"Île aux Oiseaux". The tide was coming in rapidly.
We returned to the campsite, amused at the antics of the giant "Cape camp" opposite – tents and cars and motorbikes arriving and having
non-stop and bald "grandpa" always cooking on the barbecue. The children quickly returned to the beach, while we got the meal – smoked
chicken and lots of fresh veg, followed by cakes from the supermarket.
The Gulf of Morbihan and the low tide road to Tascon
The Isle of Tascon
Sarzeau Market
Tom on Tascon
We found some idyllic spots – houses right on the edge of the Gulf – particularly lovely at high tide – rather muddy at low tide. Still all
rather lovely and a haven for oyster lovers. Back at the campsite the tide was in so time for a quick swim before supper – fresh vegetables
and "Strasbourg sausages" – a smoked type of Frankfurter, then the children's favourite – pancakes and yoghurt. Afterwards a grand game
of home-made monopoly – now remade using local names instead of London ones.
It was lunch time and they were packing up by the time we had finished, so we came back to the campsite for lunch. It had become cloudy
and the tide was out, so in the afternoon we drove back to the little roads that lead to the Gulf of Morbihan north of Sarzeau. We drove first
to the Truscat peninsular, and had a lovely walk down a surprisingly muddy lane, with blackberries growing at the side and across muddy
barren wasteland and along a quiet peaceful beach, all within a stone's throw of a private Château, incredibly peaceful with just birdsong.
The children found and picked some sweetcorn in an adjoining field and we tried cooking it for supper but it was obviously not ripe and we
ended up having chicken noodle soup! We drove up several more small roads, leading to Pointe du Ruaud, Point du Bernon and Pointe de
Bréhuidic.
Emma, Paul, Simon & Rosie on a walk on the Truscat Peninsular
Rosie, Paul, Emma & Tom on a jetty at Port Du Logeo in the Gulf du Morbihan
Simon, Tom, Emma, Rosie & Paul on a jetty at Port Du Logeo in the Gulf du Morbihan
The 'famous' photo of Simon with a long neck!
Friday 31st August 122 miles
Up late again and the morning was cloudy, so we decided to go out as planned to la Grand Brière. This is an area which is flooded in winter,
but in summer is a marshy area, criss-crossed by canals and with several small roads surrounding it. We left about 11.00 am, and stopped to
view "le barrage" on the Vilaine River, before travelling south through Herbignac to la Brière. Almost immediately we came to a picnic area
complete with table, surrounded by canals and flat bottomed boats. We had lunch at one of the tables.
We were then approached by an elderly gent who asked if we wanted a "tour" of la Brière by boat – one hour for Fr.70 (about £6). We
deliberated for a while, then decided to go in his flat bottomed boat. He certainly took us for a "grand tour" – trying very hard to explain
things to us – where water lilies grow; where they cut the peat for burning etc. We took lots of photos – it felt rather like sailing up the
Amazon – down amongst the reeds which are used to roof the houses, feed the animals, even for their beds (apparently!) and to make
baskets and seats. At one point we came across a heron at close quarters, but monsieur was upset when we stopped at the "heronry" and no
herons appeared - he got out several dog-eared photos of the herons to show us and several other photos too. At another point we stopped
to climb on to a fence to view the extent of la Brière – when I got down "Montez, Madame. Regardez". We all felt the tour certainly worth
while, even when later we saw lots more boat hiring places.
The place is certainly trying to attract tourists and we hope it won't spoil the area, which is a mixture of really old, tatty, thatched buildings
and superb modern homes – still usually thatched and in keeping with the character – but there was much more affluence in the area then we
had at first we imagined.
We drove as far as St Nazaire, by which time the sun had come out and it was quite hot. We showed Thomas the mouth of the Loire – very
wide with a superb bridge crossing it, and got some impression of the vast shipbuilding town.
We travelled north again to la Brière, stopping here and there, then back to the superb bridge over the Vilaine at la Roche Bernard, where
again we stopped for a look – the bridge was built between 1957–60. Back at the campsite we had a quick swim before supper – it was a
lovely sunny calm evening. After supper a game of Yahtzee
Our trip on la Grand Brière
A Brieron in La Briere
A farm in La Briere
Thatched cottages in La Briere
The old Lighthouse at St Naziare
Bridge over the Loire from St Naziare
The bridge over the Vilaine River at La Roche Bernard
Emma, Paul, Simon & Adrian having the evening meal at St Jacques
Another sunset at St Jacques
Saturday 1st September 8 miles
A beautiful day for our last day at St. Jacques. We had decided to move on to Quiberon tomorrow for the last few days, so spent today
gradually clearing things up. We wanted to get some shopping and to return some bottles, but as the tide was in before lunch, we all went for
a swim and boat, then went to the Co-op at Sarzeau later in the afternoon.
We bought ice creams which we ate back at the campsite, then I walked around with Simon and Paul to the local supermarket we had
intended to visit. Like everything else round here, it looked as though it was brimming with life in the height of the season, but was now
half empty and very quiet. Even the local stalls outside the campsite, where we bought our bread etc., had finally disappeared today and
the "Creperie" had vanished without trace! Still, the weather was better than ever, and we returned to the beach for our last swim here –
beautifully warm, calm and quite idyllic. I had used the goggles and mask earlier and seen a large fish about 2ft long. We came back to the
tent for supper, having dismantled the front half, then walked down to the beach. It was still warm and calm, although past 9 o'clock and
the pink shades shimmering over the sea made a picture not to be forgotten. A beautiful last evening here.
Rosie outside our tent for our last day at St Jacques
Tom playing 'monopoly' in the car at St Jacques
Simon, Emma & Tom in the dinghy at St Jacques
Emma & Simon on the beach at St Jacques
The very last sunset - at St Jacques
Sunday 2nd September 52 miles
We were woken at 7 o'clock to hear huge spots of rain. These lasted all of 30 seconds and the sky certainly didn't look rainy and we got up
to another lovely day. We packed up and left about 10.30, by which time it was very hot, with a clear blue sky. We drove to Quiberon past
Vannes, Auray and, Plouharnel, names and places we remember well. We stopped to look at a municipal site at Penthiève, then looked at
several more, but came back to Penthiève, where we pitched our tent right on the beach.
The large site was almost empty and everything seemed superb, except we lacked the hot showers of previous sites. The hot sunny day had
suddenly become overcast, but just as quickly cleared again. We had lunch, the children spent the afternoon playing on the sand in front of
the tent and making a huge "dormobile”, where they had their supper.
The tide went out a long way, as we expected, and then came in again, very quickly at supper time. After supper we walked out of the
campsite and came to a “Creperie”, which said it closed tomorrow so in we went in and all had a "crêpe " - I had a coffee and Adrian had a
beer, much enjoyed by all, luckily as tomorrow it really did close down.
Adrian erecting the trailer tent on a 'nice spot' on the beach at Penthievre, Quiberon
Everybody soon settled in
Emma, Paul, Simon & Tom in their 'Dormobile' on the beach where they had their supper
Adrian preparing Rosie's and his supper
Monday 3rd September 12 miles
We thought the road was noisy all night but next day realised it was the waves washing against the shore on the other side of the isthmus – a
few hundred yards away. A lovely morning, the children were straight out onto the beach and I had a swim before breakfast.
We sat around and swam for most of the morning, then thought we’d walk up to the Co-op at the entrance to the site, to buy bread for
lunch. Unfortunately the Co-op said "closed for good" at the door and - like everything else around here – obviously the season had ended.
We walked up the road and found another supermarket, but no bread, but eventually found another Co-op, just closing and a bakers, so got
enough food for today. It is nice coming late in the season if the weather is good, as there are so few people, but you do rather get the idea
that you are the only ones there.
After lunch and lazing, we drove up to the "long beach" – the rough beach which leads round from opposite us here, to Kehillio, where we
camped in 1979. We found the beach was not as windy as we had expected, but the sea just as rough and relived the fun of "jumping the
waves". We came back for supper and afterwards walked up the beach to "Les Sables Blancs" campsite and not inspired (we had visited the
site once before) came back to our tent, and again I had a swim before it was quite dark.
Rosie checking if an early morning swim was on
Tom, Adrian, Rosie, Simon, Paul having breakfast on the beach at Penthievre
And then lunch
And then sundowners
Tuesday 4th September 16 miles
A beautiful evening last night and we went to bed the wind blowing lightly. However it got gradually stronger with some rain and at 2.30 am I
got up and brought in the swimming costumes from the line – imagining them to be blown into the middle of the sea. By 3.30 the wind had
got up even more, and then torrential rain with it. Very little sleep was had by anyone – least of all Adrian, who had got up to check that all
was well and found the wind had blown the tent against the inner tent causing rain to leak in and the mattress and inner tent on the other
side were quite wet. However the morning dawned grey and overcast and for the first time this holiday we squashed into the tent for
breakfast. Afterwards we drove down to Quiberon itself, finding the town teeming with people – lots of English, and eventually found an
"Intermarché" supermarket and proceeded to buy the rest of our supplies and also new oars (stronger ones) for the boat. We drove back via
the "Cote Sauvage" – true to its name with its wild waves.
RosieC, Adrian, Tom, Paul, Emma & Simon having lunch at Penthievre,
We stopped too at a small beach near here which we had visited in 1976. Back to the tent for lunch. The sun was beginning to come out and
at times the afternoon was hot, out of the wind.
I had a quick last swim at our beach, we then drove across to the opposite beach, to "jump the waves". There were lots of windsurfers out,
which rather spoilt it for us, as they went very fast and we had to be constantly on the alert. We came back and had cold showers and
started to clear things up in preparation for tomorrow. After supper we walked along the beach southwards – rather windy and nice to get
back to the tent!
The 'Cote Sauvage'
The trailer tent looks a bit lonely
Wednesday 5th September 302 miles
Got up at 7.30 am to a beautiful red ball of a sun rising, which instantly went into a cloud and came out as a normal sunrise. There was a
clear blue sky, but the wind was cold as we cleared up, trying to take in the beautiful view before us.
Sunrise on our last morning at Penthievre
As we arrived back at the campsite it began to rain, so we were glad to have put out the front half of the tent.
Simon & Tom on the play things at Le Havre
Thursday 6th September 71 miles
The alarm went off just before 6 o'clock, after a night when we had slept only lightly. It was still dark, as we tried to packed up quietly –
apparently the only people up and about, whereas in previous years the whole campsite seem to be on the move. We luckily ate a good
breakfast and it was light by the time we left the campsite and drove down into Le Havre and to the port. As usual, the trailer tents had to
wait until last to board – it was 8.30 am, and we sailed at 9.00 French time.
Then began the unending journey – Adrian, Emma and I must all be bad travellers – the boys seemed okay and spent a good deal of the time
in the games room. Adrian and Emma spent a lot of time on deck, but it was cold and windy, so I passed the time reading and finishing the
third part of the Dirk Bogarde autobiography. After about halfway it got a bit calmer, and we felt better as we neared Portsmouth, again
almost last off the boat.
We soon joined the M27 and were heading home. At Eastleigh we had trouble as we tried to find a petrol station – not wanting to repeat
our previous experience – but eventually found one that had a small shop attached, so were able to buy a few things to eat for when we
finally got home about 4 o'clock English time. Another lovely holiday over.
Arriving at Portsmouth
Leaving Le Havre
The lock through "le barrage" on the Vilaine River
Rosie, Paul, Simon, Adrian & Tom having lunch in La Grand Briere
Saturday 25th August 38 miles
Some more rain in the night, but we awoke to a fine morning – hot but with some clouds. Thomas went straight for a swim, then he and
Adrian went and bought some French bread and croissants. After breakfast all four children went down to the beach and came back with
crabs and shrimps found in the rockpools.
Monday, 27th August 28 miles
Paul's 13th birthday. After Paul opening his presents and cards, we had breakfast – it was a nice morning, but had been damp. We set off for
the Unico supermarket to buy the things that Paul had wanted for his birthday meals, then came back and had lunch.
Thursday 30th August 29 miles
Another lovely morning. We decided to go into Sarzeau as it was market day and found a very large market, occupying all the main roads the
town. We enjoyed walking around, rather dismayed at the number of English voices – more than we had heard all holiday – but enjoying
sampling the local cakes, meats etc. offered to us. We bought a few things – a pretty flower brooch for Grandma Cape's birthday, and honey
lollipops at Fr.0.80, mange-tout beans and some petit-fours. We thought all the Breton type cakes rather expensive – all £2 or £3for a simple
flan type cake, but tried a tiny one for Fr.1.0 (10p).
We finally left about 9.45 and set off on our homeward journey, past Vannes and towards Rennes – a huge sprawling city, then east towards
Laval. We stopped for lunch – seeing a free table and wondering why, we soon realised, when we got out – the wind was howling and before
we finished lunch it began to rain – rather a disappointment! The day continued to alternate between sun and cloud with some rain, as we
continued on our journey, often through pretty country and half timbered houses. Mayenne, Alençon, Sees (memories of camping before and
the huge Cathedral) and then towards the Pont de Tancarville and towards Le Havre arriving about 5.30 and very busy. We found the campsite
and pitched tent. The clouds gathered as we prepared our last supper and drove up to the park [for the children's playground] as in previous
years – rather denuded this year we thought.