The morning was partly overcast, but mild. The biting flidgies forced us to have breakfast inside.
We moved on to the picnic area, overlooking the river to have lunch – the noseeums weren’t as bad here.
We now left the park, but stopped along the road to visit the John H. McIntosh’s Tabby Sugar Mill ruins. Tabby is a building material using oyster shells cemented with a mixture of sand, lime (made from crushed oyster shells) and water. The ruined building looked quite evocative – rather like an old English abbey, and the day had become quite pleasant (74°F).
Adrian at Tabby Sugar Mills Wall of ‘Tabby’
We soon found ourselves travelling north on the I95 where the edges of the road looked pretty, as the trees were smothered in a yellow flowering creeper which we have enjoyed seeing in this area, and there were deep red flowers in the central grassy area.
We arrived at the turning to Jekyll Island before we were ready for it! We called in at the Visitors Centre, housed in an attractive weatherboarded building, before heading for the island, but when we came to a fee booth for $3 parking fee for the island, we considered it too late in the day to embark on.
I had spotted a suitable place to stay beside the bridge (part of the old road), so we pulled in there, with plans to visit the island tomorrow. We walked out onto the old bridge, but the sun went into cloud before going down.
Tuesday 22nd March 75 miles
Well we never did get to visit Jekyll Island! We were both fast asleep at gone midnight, when we were startled by a loud banging on the door. A policeman had decided that we couldn’t stay there, so there was nothing for it but to move on! He told us that there was a campsite on Jekyll Island (which we knew) – but at that time of night? We knew that there was a Walmart in Brunswick, 15 miles away, so set off there (me still in my nightie). We had to get the computer out to find out where to go, but finally got there – only to hear a loud generator noise from some work going on nearby! Luckily that stopped fairly soon, and we managed to get back to sleep.
After rain in the night, the morning dawned grey. It brightened a bit, at times, but generally wasn’t a good day for us.
We made our way to St. Simon Island, over another long causeway. It was a pretty little island, but highly populated – a bit like Hayling Island with palm trees!
The island is of interest to us, because of a battle in which the British defeated the Spanish, who then gave up on trying to further their empire here. The battle was at a place called Bloody Marsh, which we stopped to look at. Apparently the water was red with blood after the battle, hence the name. While we were there, a large woman was telling her oversized son about the water being ‘reared’ (red).
Before heading for the fort, we explored some of the east and south of the island, with its beautiful white sandy beaches. What a shame that the weather was grey and cool, but we did walk on East Beach briefly.
We stopped again by a coastguards house, and then further on, where we walked back to the lighthouse.
Now we drove off to Fort Frederica, built by the British under James Oglethorpe in 1736. The sky had become very grey, and just after we set off on a trail of the foundations of what was once a well laid out town, the rain started. As we neared the actual fort, at the end of the trail, the storm arrived.
The storm starts, Fort Frederica
We dashed back, with Adrian pulling a muscle in his leg in doing so! Soaking wet, we made for the Bam, and started on our return journey off the island. We soon passed attractive Christ Church, and a sign telling of the Wesley Oak – both John and Charles Wesley had come here with Oglethorpe. A huge funeral was taking place at the church, with hundreds of cars parked, so we couldn’t pull in to see anything. Shame!
We drove back to Brunswick, stopping by a petrol station where Adrian had seen cheaper fuel on the way. He couldn’t believe that it was now several cents dearer than this morning! We tried to ring Tom, who we have been trying to contact for ages, and had rung while we were in the fort, only to get the answerphone.
We drove onto a large sugar plantation, which was a State Historic Site. Having bought our State Parks Pass yesterday, we later realised that this didn’t include the ‘Historic’ parks! As it was about to rain, and Adrian couldn’t walk, we didn’t stop!
We drove on to Darien, where we had note of a free place to camp, in a wildlife area. We scoured the road for the actual location, with no luck. There was a large parking area, but after last night’s experience, Adrian wasn’t prepared to chance camping there.
The end result, after much wasting of time, was that we drove to an RV park and got settled in, as the rain and thunder returned. We were both feeling pretty low (I hadn’t been feeling too well today anyway), so we were delighted when Tom did phone, and we were both able to chat to him.
I made a sausage gumbo soup for supper, then we watched the DVD of ‘Jimanji’, which Adrian had given me, but even then the DVD stopped just before the end, and we couldn’t get it going again!
The heavy rain continued into the night.
Wednesday 23rd March 59 miles
The day started grey, but turned pleasant and humid, with a lot of sun.
We had to buy some petrol at its ever increasing price (up 10 cents since last night!). We drove back into Darien to tour the old town (1736) It is a very attractive town, with numerous huge oaks draped in Spanish moss. There are a great many delightful old churches – Wesley had spent some time here. Adrian drove around, while I walked, because of his ‘gammy’ leg.
St. Andrews Church, Darien
We drove out to King George fort (named after George 1). We were really pleased that our annual pass allowed us in free, as we didn’t want to pay, when Adrian was hobbling and might not make it round!
In fact it was a lovely visit. The fort had been superbly rebuilt, and was in a lovely situation beside the Altamaha River. We both thoroughly enjoyed it – I even went on a ‘nature trail’, which passed a mock up of a village, made to look like one when the soldiers first arrived. There were also saw mill exhibits, tabby ruins, and an excellent museum. The fort had been built in 1721 by Col. John Barnwell and as it was on land claimed by the Spanish, it was eventually going to lead to trouble!
Rosie in the stocks
We ended our visit with lunch, sitting outside – only the biting noseeums to spoil things again!
We now went on a circuitous route (due to various artist impression maps) to Harris Neck Wildlife Refuge. This was formerly an old World War 2 airfield which had been well ‘converted’. We had a nice drive around, stopping to look out at Woody Pond, where we saw 4 small alligators and numerous herons and ducks, including 2 wood ducks. We stopped too at Thomas landing, but at both places the flidgies were bad.
We drove back to road 17, then drove a mile south to South Newport Campsite, arriving just before 5 o’clock. It was a funny little place, which had apparently been running since 1987. The toilet/showers, in an old caravan, looked as though they had been locked up since then! At least it was cheap.
It was still warm, but because of the ever present flidgies, we had our cup of tea inside.
Adrian cooked the catfish outside, and it was excellent. During the evening we had a bang on the door – not a policeman, just a fellow camper telling us that the water had been turned off as someone had broken one of the taps off!
Thursday 24th March 47 miles
The morning was sunny, and the day became hot. The antiquated showers were open this morning, so we both made use of them.
We left at 9.30, soon stopping by ‘America’s smallest church’, a delightful tiny church, which could seat about a dozen people, built in 1949.
America’s smallest church Midway Church
At Midway (halfway between Darien and Savannah), there was another lovely church and beautifully kept churchyard. We didn’t go into the adjacent museum, but spent some time looking at the many explanatory boards, enjoying the spring sunshine.
We reached Fort McAllister Historic State Park, and decided to stay for the night, but had mixed fortunes. Our State Pass let us into the park ($2), but not the museum/fort ($4.50 each – so we didn’t go). At least we got a reduction on the camping for being seniors!
It was here that General Sherman reached the sea after ‘marching through Georgia.’
The camping area was some distance away, and we spent much time driving to and fro – first to pay for camping, and later to enquire about canoe rentals (no go –it all stopped at 4 o’clock, and this was just gone 3.00!) also the bicycle rentals advertised on the leaflet didn’t happen now (‘the bikes got too old’). All this information was so hard to come by!
We had had our lunch sitting at the picnic table, when the biting flidgies weren’t too bad, but they came on bad during the afternoon. I went on the pleasant ‘nature trail’, but as always, it was badly signposted.
It was so annoying to have to sit inside for our cup of tea, when the weather was so nice, but we couldn’t stand the noseeums .
Luckily the noseeums subsided at dark, and we had a wonderful fire and cooked corn on the cob, baked potatoes, mushrooms, pork, sausages and squash and didn’t come in until 9.30. We could see the full moon above the trees.
Friday 25th March Good Friday 63 miles
We woke to hear rain just starting to fall, and then an almighty thunder storm came in.
The noseeums made life impossible. We didn’t hurry off, and had coffee back at the museum area, over a mile back. We enjoyed the last of our hot cross buns.
Now on to Savannah, which even in this rainy weather looked lovely. We were only driving through today, hoping to visit tomorrow (in better weather?) We drove through an area of attractive houses, with azaleas and rhododendrons – and even a few daffs! – and the wonderful oak trees everywhere draped in Spanish moss.
We pulled into a sodden little park to eat our lunch and the sun even came out! From then on the day brightened, and became really pleasant.
Adrian pulled off as he had seen a place to do an oil change. They couldn’t do the Bam, because it was too high, but in the same area was Walmart (we hoped to stay in one tonight) and Publix (we needed to shop.)
Adrian inquired in Walmart, and it seemed to be OK to stay. Meanwhile, I had spotted a ‘Goodwill’ caravan – a sort of charity ‘drop off’, and thought this a good place to deposit some of our excess Mardi Gras beads. We handed over two large carrier bags full, plus a couple of DVDs. We will be glad of the extra space!
We now made for Fort Pulaski – a brick fort, built in the 19th century and taken over by the Confederates in the Civil War and which everybody had thought was impregnable. However, the Unionists had some new extra powerful cannons, which they attacked the fort with, and the Confederates soon surrendered. The fort looked attractive in the now fine weather, surrounded by a water filled moat (and some extra water today!)
Pulaski Fort, Savannah
After the fall of Pulaski, Hunter, the man in charge, announced that all black slaves in the fort would be freed. President Lincoln said that he couldn’t make decisions like that, but soon afterwards he himself wrote his declaration of freeing all slaves.
In this same park there was a memorial to John Wesley, who landed here in 1736. There was a little trail to this, and I walked on to the water’s edge.
We made a brief trip to Tybee Island, where there is an attractive lighthouse, but we had difficulty in getting to the beach – the once lovely island seemed to have been taken over by the developers. There was an unfortunate incident as we drove back, when a dog ran out in front of a car driving in the other direction. The poor driver couldn’t avoid hitting it, and the poor dog got caught under the front wheel. As the driver reversed, the dog limped out, badly hurt, and the poor man went over to placate the owners in the house opposite. It was very distressing to see.
We arrived back at Walmart at 5.30, and took in the next lot of photos to be printed. We shopped in Publix – not as good as others we have been to, but we bought a cooked chicken, which we came back and ate for supper with salad and baguette.
Saturday 26th March 26 miles
Woke to hear birdsong, but it was misty. We left at 9 o’clock, heading for Savannah. Adrian was keen to have the engine serviced, so tried at a ‘lube’ place. They couldn’t do it, but directed us to another place some way away which might. The man wrote some interesting spellings on his map! We passed a funfair, and Adrian said ‘oh, yes, he said it was just past the old circus, but that doesn’t look very old’. When we reached the garage, it was next to a derelict ‘Circuit City’ (an electrical store), the man hadn’t said ‘circus’ at all!
They were able to do the oil change, and did some extra things too.
We drove on to Savannah’s Visitors Centre, housed in an old railway building. All it seemed keen on was advertising the many tours, (there were 4 different town trolley companies) so we just picked up a few leaflets, with a map of the route that the ‘trolleys’ took.
We then drove around the route quite successfully, enjoying the sites and noting places that we wanted to come back to.
Savannah is the loveliest American town we have been to. There are 21 delightful squares, with enormous oaks draped in Spanish moss, flowers – azaleas, tulips, even daffs - and wonderful houses lining the streets.
Reynolds Square, Savannah Savannah houses
We stopped to have our chicken salad lunch at a park at the southern end of the historic district – it was just like a small town park, with locals walking dogs and playing tennis.
We drove back and parked the Bam in a side street near the Visitors Centre, then proceeded to walk back out. We started with the bustling ‘City Market’, where tourists were enjoying sitting around at the many eating places. The Riverfront is the hub of the town – this is where the old cotton warehouses stood – all now converted to a tourist area of up-market shops and eating places. Very atmospheric, but not at all over the top. Down on the river, steam boats were cruising, and a chap juggling on the waterfront had drawn a large crowd.
There is so much history attached to Savannah, and plaques everywhere told of interesting facts and people. One was to the first steam ship to cross the Atlantic, which had set off from here. Others told of prominent people in the civil war, and then there was the interest of John Wesley, who spent some time here as an Anglican priest in 1736/7.
Memorial to John Wesley
Churches abounded too – a catholic cathedral, a Jewish synagogue, Wesley’s church, and one built on the headquarters Sherman had used, after he had taken Savannah during the Civil war.
We walked through the large Colonial Cemetery, with graves and plaques of many important people – it was just annoying that we found that there was only one gate open, after we had walked down to the far end!
All in all, a super town! We had thought of catching the free shuttle bus back - Adrian’s leg had coped well - but soon found ourselves back near the Bam. We had read that you could stay overnight in the Visitors Centre car park, but didn’t hold out much hope. We made our way there, and Adrian enquired at the gate. It seemed to be OK, so we were delighted.
Adrian passed on the information to another couple in a motorhome, who were about to leave. They were really pleased to be able to stay here, and Adrian spent some time chatting to them.
We thought that we’d take the opportunity of using the free shuttle, and going back into town. It left from this car park, but the next one (6.40), didn’t stop, so we had a quick drink while waiting for the 7 o’clock bus.
This in itself was an experience. We were the only passengers at first, then one large-bellied chap got on, and later a black lady. She threw her walking stick up the step, before proceeding to crawl up herself. She was dressed in a faded yellow t-shirt and shorts, red socks and woolly hat, open sandals, and a bright multi-coloured shirt. She and the black driver conversed non stop, in a dialect of English, of which we couldn’t understand a word!
The bus operated a one way loop of the town, so it was half an hour before we arrived at the Riverfront area.
We found a nice little eating place and went in to book a table. We had to wait quite a while, so over our beer got chatting to a ‘flower lady’, who looked as though she had stepped out of an old time musical, but turned out to be interesting and educated. She loved travelling, and would love to visit Europe.
Our meal of prawns (R) and crab (A) with excellent chips, was really enjoyable, and we soaked up the convivial atmosphere.
We decided to walk back to the Bam, passing through the City Market area. This proved to be the ‘icing on the cake’! Seeing an attractive art shop/gallery, we walked in to look around. Apart from wonderful art work everywhere, there was a small white grand piano, which a chap of about our age was playing. He turned out to be Chuck Hamilton, the owner of the gallery, and painter of many of the dynamic and atmospheric paintings. He really got into playing sixties tunes, and talking to us about them.
Another of the artists was a former German called Albert, who looked more French, in his black beret, and with thick grey beard and pony tail. He had been a sailor, and had visited Portsmouth as part of the exchange group he belonged to. By the time we left the gallery, there was only us, Chuck and the lady cashier (his wife/partner?) We had spent a long time discussing music and language, and felt that we, and he, could have gone on all night!
They unlocked the door to let us out, and we walked back to the Bam, arriving at 10.40, just as the rain, which had put in an appearance just before we left at 7.00, returned.
Sunday 27th March Easter Day 4 miles
It rained torrentially all night and morning! We exchanged our Easter goodies, and enjoyed our boiled egg for breakfast.
As the rain continued heavily, we busied ourselves with various things. I was pleased to get up to date with the photo album.
We had coffee and our pretty yellow Easter cakes, then we phoned Emma on the mobile (it was too wet to contemplate going out to find a phone!) I spoke to Ruby and Felix as well, and also to Tom, who was there, and his girlfriend Rosy.
After lunch, when the rain had subsided a little, we drove off to the adjacent Railway Museum.
Railway museum, Savannah
It was almost dry for our walk around the railway museum, although pretty soggy underfoot! It gave Adrian something to get enthused about and I particularly liked the model railway of Savannah.
The rain returned with vigour as we were leaving, so we timed it just right!
After having a cup of tea and chocolate egg in the Bam, we drove off around Savannah for a while. It looked rather sad and deserted today. I posted the last of the cards I had written, then we came back to our former spot for the night.
After supper we started listening to Bill Bryson’s ‘A Walk in the Woods’, about walking the Appalachian Trail.
Monday 28th March 193 miles
Not at all a nice day for Easter Monday. It had become windy last night, with a drop of rain during the night. The morning was partly cloudy, but became even more so, and turned really cold (50°F) and grey with more rain.
We left at 7.45, hoping to have breakfast in the wildlife refuge just north of Savannah, but despite our efforts, we couldn’t get on to the right road, and found ourselves on the I16 west. This is where we were eventually heading for, so we gave the refuge idea a miss. The only thing was, there was nowhere now to have breakfast! In the end we turned off the road, and pulled on to the verge of a side road.
We turned north at Metter, calling in briefly at Guido gardens, which we had a leaflet about. They were run by a Christian organisation, but we didn’t find them at all inspiring – very neat and bland, so after a quick look we moved on. The cold weather didn’t help.
We pulled in next to the George Smith State Park and had coffee in the picnic area. Nowhere looked at its best today. We walked across the covered mill bridge, looking out to the flooded swamp lands, with the unintentionally submerged tables.
Covered Mill Bridge, George Smith State Park
Everywhere was very cold and wet, with more water than is usual.
We had to stop at the small town of Adrian, to take a photo – we had passed a little place called Rosemary earlier!
Adrian at Adrian, Georgia
Dublin had some nice houses. We had hoped to find somewhere to pull off for the night, but had no luck, so at Macon, we found a Walmart, and stopped at 5.25 – not the most exciting day!
We enjoyed listening to the second CD of Bill Bryson’s ‘Walk in the Woods’ – relevant, as the road we were on led to where he had started walking.
Tuesday 29th March Happy Birthday Pippa. 73 miles
Clear blue sky! Just what we wanted! By the time we had shopped in Walmart, it was 10 o’clock. We headed back to Ocmulgee National Monument, spending much longer here than we had imagined.
The Visitors Centre first, of course. We were glad to visit, as we knew nothing about this site. We even watched the inevitable video. There were several mounds in the grounds, one had a tunnel you could walk through (bent over) to see how the Indians used it as a ceremonial site.
The day was wonderful for walking – it almost made the last 2 terrible days worth it, to see spring bursting into life from all the trees.
We spent a long time walking the trails to the various sites, walking back beside the flooded river, and even spotting a red headed woodpecker, which we hadn’t seen before.
Swollen Creek, Ocmulgee National Monument
Adrian walked the last bit back by road, but I wandered some more through the woods.
We had a short drive around the town of Macon, which had some splendid houses. Everywhere looked pretty with blossom, but their big ‘Cherry Blossom festival’ ended on Sunday, which must have been a washout!
I had wanted to visit the ‘Georgia Music Hall of fame’ – mostly because we had been led to believe that there would be something on our favourite group REM, among others. It seemed a shame to be indoors on such a lovely day, but we decided to go. There was plenty to see – it had all been set up like a village, with different ‘shops’ housing different types of music – jazz, blues, rock and roll etc. All good fun, BUT - there was nothing on REM!
There was Little Richard (who was from Macon), Brenda Lee (a favourite of Adrian’s) Johnny Mercer – who wrote ‘Moon River’ amongst other things, and started Capitol records – we had seen a seat dedicated to him in Savannah.
I had fun in the children’s section, where I could play along with drums to recorded music, from the privacy of a sound proof booth. Adrian liked a lot of the Blues stuff.
To compensate for no REM, we were able to buy a little book about them in the gift shop (they are from Athens, Georgia.)
We now drove out of town, hoping to drive some of the ‘Peach Blossom Trail’. Georgia’s nickname is the ‘peach state’. We had a pleasant drive, but didn’t see much blossom. We did pass some peach trees, but they were only just coming into flower. We did, as on other days, see a lot of wild wisteria climbing up through tall trees.
At Barnsville the signposting was terrible (non existent), but we managed to find our way through the pleasant town, with a historic centre, and many attractive houses.
We were heading for Forsyth, because, guess what, there was a Walmart (we had travelled some 65 miles from Macon, and not seen anyway vaguely possible to stop for the night). This one was really near the centre of town, so after arriving at 5.30, we set off on foot to explore the historic area. We had picked up a leaflet on the places of interest, so armed with this, we walked around in the pleasant early evening temperature.
Rosie outside Forsyth Courthouse
Back at Walmart, we went in and bought a pizza, which we cooked for supper and afterwards we listened to Bill Bryson part 3.
Wednesday 30th March 45 miles
The few clouds cleared away to give another glorious day. We passed the old railway station, and a college for women dating from 1849. It was a lovely drive to Juliette, with all the blossom now coming out. The tiny village of Juliette is where they made the film ‘Fried Green Tomatoes at the Whistle Stop Café’. It looked very atmospheric, and was obviously now a little tourist venue, but at this hour of the morning, there was no-one else about, so we could wander around on our own. None of the shops or cafes were open, and it was really peaceful.
Whistle Stop Café, Juliette
We took a pretty cross country route to High Falls State Park, stopping to have coffee above the rushing brown river which emerged from the dam with over-full waterfalls, although the real waterfalls were further down.
We walked a pleasant trail along by the falls – the first time that we have worn our walking boots this trip, and I even took my hiking stick. It felt really hot – suntop and shorts weather – and we were pleased to have a real tramp.
Rosie & Adrian at High Falls
There had been a town here in the past, and we walked a bit of the ‘historic trail’, enjoying seeing ruins of an old mill, and part of a bridge, which was the former Old Alabama Road. By now it was lunch time, so we returned to our previous picnic table, watching the ducks and geese as before. Altogether a nice visit. We could have camped here, but had decided to move on to nearby Indian Springs State Park.
At the spring of the title, people were filling umpteen large plastic bottles, but we didn’t bother (the water was rather smelly!). I walked another trail – as badly signposted as in the previous park, and with several trees down across the path – while Adrian rested his leg.
We made our way to the camping area, some way away, and Adrian mended the roof which had been leaking (prophetically as it turned out!).
We enjoyed a lovely campfire on a beautifully warm evening, cooking steak and baked potatoes and coming in late to listen to CD 4 of Bill Bryson.
We hadn’t been asleep long when an almighty thunder storm descended, raging all night and into the morning. The thunder boomed like cannons firing, and the lightning flashed continually. The rain was violent – we thought of all the campers, who had so been enjoying the fine evening.
Thursday 31st March 107 miles
Last night’s tremendous storm returned for most of the morning, then it was just wet! I should have done the washing last night, as it was much more difficult this morning! We didn’t envy the tent campers, packing up sodden tents in the tipping rain!
We left at 11.45 and drove to Monticello, an attractive town with nice houses and lots of white blossom – it would all have looked so much nicer in sunshine!
From here we drove a ‘Scenic’ route, through pretty but unremarkable country, returning to Monticello.
The rain continued as we drove on to Eatonton. This town is the birthplace of Joe Chandler Harris, who wrote the ‘Brer Rabbit’ stories, which I remember having read to me as a child. There was a small museum about him, housed in old slave cabins, similar to those lived in by the fictitious ‘Uncle Remus’ of the stories. The museum was extremely difficult to find, especially in the rain, but I’m sure that the little old grey haired lady (yet again) was pleased to have us visit, on such an awful day, and I particularly enjoyed rekindling some childhood memories – we used to have the stories read to us in infant school, by a recently retired teacher, and I know we loved the ‘Tar baby’ story.
Memories of Brer Rabbit!
The day brightened as we drove north to Madison, and another Walmart carpark! There was a dramatic red sky.
We listened to the last part of Bill Bryson reading ‘a walk in the woods’, which we have really enjoyed listening to, but we don’t think that we’ll be attempting to walk the 2100 mile Appalachian Trail!
Friday 1st April 98 miles
Another grey and wet day! We drove on through Madison, with its delightfully attractive houses, and headed for Athens. We had wanted to go here because of its REM connections, but wouldn’t have chosen a day like this! Again we drove past beautiful houses, and the University buildings were really impressive, but all the things that I had wanted to do were outside – like the State Botanic Gardens, and that wasn’t on today!
We drove through the town centre, and out the other side, stopping to get some petrol, and then having coffee in the large cinema carpark behind. While we were there, Adrian noticed that the petrol had gone DOWN in price! We pulled in to get a bit more!
We headed for Washington, where we pulled into a carpark opposite the library (apparently the oldest in Georgia, in a fine red brick building) to have lunch. The rain had now stopped, although the day was still grey. Adrian had picked up a leaflet on a walking tour of the town, so we set off on that. Once more there were some splendid houses, with trees of white blossom, and several sparkling white painted wooden churches.
Two of the fine houses in Washington, Georgia
We had found out about a free camping area on Clarks Hill Lake (now called the J.Strom Thurmond Lake), and managed to find it without too much difficulty. It was called ‘Holiday Park’, but wasn’t what the name conjured up – the whole area is called that. There was a rough camping area beside an over full brown reservoir. I made a cup of tea, and we started listening to another tale of a ‘long walk’ – Spanish Steps by Tim Moore, in which he tells of his walk to Santiago de Compostela with a donkey to carry his load.
We had a quick walk around on the sodden ground before Adrian lit the barbie to cook our potatoes, corn on the cob, mushrooms and fish.
Afterwards we settled down to hear the remaining two CDs of ‘Spanish Steps’ – we won’t be walking that trail either, although it has long fascinated us.