Tuesday 17th February. 0 km A cooler day, blue sky but still warm. We went into Ali’s and had breakfast outside on the table. Later in the morning we went down and had a swim across the bay and back. It was quite choppy in, so it was quite hard going on the way coming back and quite a cool breeze when we came out. We came back had a shower and hairwash and then had lunch with Ali and Margaret. She left during the afternoon. Adrian was doing things fixing the van and putting velcro around the nets for the windows and taking off the covers over the vents for the fridge and having a look at the taps. I later wrote some postcards and also phoned Emma. We drove up to Mosman to the shops with Ali and bought some stuff for supper and one or two other things. We went back to Ali's house at Balmoral Beach and after supper, watched one or two television programmes in the evening and then came out to the van to sleep.
We got up and went in for breakfast. Ali said he'd not been too good again, and he told us to go ahead and have our day in Sydney, which we did. We caught the bus down to Taronga Zoo and then the ferry across to Circular Quay. At this point it was quite a chilly wind still. It was 9.15 when we left and it soon became a beautiful day with clear blue sky all day. Then we had a lovely day wandering around Sydney, initially around the Opera house, right around the Botanic Gardens Botanic where we had coffee and cake, to Mrs. Macquarie's chair and right down through other parkland. We later had a ride around on the monorail.
Looking towards Opera House and harbour Bridge from by Mrs Macquarie's chair
Rosie by the Opera House
Rosie in the Sydney Gardens
We bought a roll for lunch which we ate near Darling Harbour. We walked all around that area too and later on down to the area called the Rocks. We went to the Maritime Museum to the archives part of it where we found a reference to George Thompson Lawson.
Mrs Macquarie's chair in the Botanic gardens
Monorail at Darling Harbour
The Sydney Tower form Hyde Park
We eventually got the ferry back late in the afternoon and met somebody on the ferry who gave us a lift back to Ali's house at Balmoral Beach. We then walked down with Ali and got fish and chips again for supper and sat chatting most of the evening about Ali's earlier experiences in life. We did watch a couple of interesting television programmes on the handicapped and then retired to the van at about 10.30.
Adrian with Ali waiting in the fish & chip queue
The Rocks harbour, Sydney
The Harbour bridge as the sun goes down from the ferry back
Thursday 19th February 0 km + with Ali Another beautiful day. Tried Simon on the phone. We didn't get him but got through and spoke to Tom. After breakfast, we went up to the shops at Mosman. Later Ali drove us up to Palm Beach where we saw Linda [Adrian's 2nd cousin] in her cafe - The Ancora, and had coffee and a sandwich with her. We then drove down to Palm Beach itself with its big waves and had a blow around in them.
We came back to Balmoral Beach and I sat in the 'sit-out' and sorted out the Tahitian and Marquesan stuff while Adrian sorted out the boot of the van. In the evening I rang the Tanners and Adrian rang John and Lyn. We had a quiche for supper and I burnt my finger and later watched a programme on the Nazi movement with Ali. We retired to the coaster to sleep.
The Ancora café, Palm Beach
Linda, Ali and Adrian in the Ancora Café, Palm Beach
Linda, Rosie and Adrian outside the Ancora Café, Palm Beach
Rosie & Ali on Palm Beach
Adrian & Rosie after a 'bash' in the wvaves at Palm Beach
Adrian & Rosie on Palm Beach
Friday 20th February 206 km We phoned Simon before breakfast and then had breakfast outside. Hilde arrived earlier than we expected so we chatted to her for a bit. We went for a swim and got ourselves organised, I'd done the washing. We then had a sandwich for lunch and left Ali and Hilda just after 1pm, and headed south of Sydney. A parting gift from Ali was to lend us a table and two chairs that he wasn't using (for 10 months!).
We stopped while passing Botany Bay, Adrian stopped and filled the tank with diesel and just afterwards we stopped by a beach which was very very blowy and I had a quick dip in the sea. We headed south through a bit of the Royal National Park down to the coast at Stanwell Park and then along the coast to Wollongong, where I dozed off a bit. We seemed to go through an exciting industrial area to Port Kembla and Adrian found a place selling a bit for the fridge that he'd wanted and then we found a BBC hardware where we bought some netting for the door. We carried on alongside the sea to Shell harbour, this area is quite built up with houses and resorts scattered here and there. We then joined Highway One south past Kiama and bypassing Gerroa where we stayed on the way up to Sydney a few days ago. On through Berry and soon after that we thought we'd turn off to the coast and hopefully find somewhere to stop. We continued through Nowra and turned off on the road towards Huskisson and Vicentia. We didn't find anywhere that clear to stop, it seemed to be a nature reserve and it said no camping and there were some houses scattered everywhere. This is an area, which was greatly indented with bays and the land. We took the road towards St. George's basin and somewhere nearSanctuary Point - nothing before that, we found a little place, that didn't say ‘no camping’, right by the sea. It was now seven o'clock.
People were wind surfing and it was obviously a little boating place and this seemed an ideal place to stop. I set to making a bacon and mushroom omelette. Adrian went back to a little shop which opened up to sell him some bread and milk and butter. Someone came by and asked if we were we staying for the night and would we keep an eye on their trailer - they were going fishing. It was a much cooler evening, that had come over cloudy during the afternoon. The first time it was pleasant to sit indoors in the cool.
Lilles growing near Sanctuary Point
Sanctuary Point boat park - we loved them. A bit busier than when we were there (streetview 2010)
Hilde, Adrian & Rosie in Ali's Garden, Balmoral Beach
Saying goodbye to Hilde (and Ali)
Saturday 21st February. 159 km A few drops of rain in the night but nothing much and we awoke to a cooler morning, quite overcast. Lots of cars and boat trailers had moved in - obviously people are going out fishing and this was the car park for that. We sat inside for breakfast which was quite pleasant for change and left at 9.45. We set off towards the Princes Highway, Highway One. It is a very inhabited area of just low level bungalows and we were amused by a sign outside a house saying, 'Chick poo' $2 a bag. Back on the Princes Highway we noticed lots of lilies growing beside the road, as we have done previously - large white lilies. We turned off to Fisherman's Paradise just a short distance to a little creek. The weather now spotted with rain but we made tea and coffee, the first time we'd done this to have elevenses mid morning and 'Morning Coffee' and biscuits. We had a lazy time there and started on our wildlife diary of Australia. We turned off to Mollymook, a beautiful bay with turquoise waters and white sand and big waves. We arrived there about 11.45 and spoke for some time to another couple in a motorhome, an Australian couple. Then we went down onto the beach briefly, had a paddle and came back and had lunch at a picnic table overlooking this wonderful view. The sun had now come out, it was warm but not too hot to sit in the sun. We left it at one o'clock. We stopped at Uladulla when on the second time round we found a supermarket. We replenished our stocks and Adrian went into a motoring discount stores. We drove off to - Murramarang Coastal Park and we stopped at a place called Pretty Beach. We had to walk a little way down to it. It had the whitest of white sands, quite rough waves, turquoisey sea and being a national park devoid of anything. We walked quite a way along the beach, along to the next little bay and back and then we had a lovely lie in the sand. The sun had come out a bit but it was just a lovely temperature. We'd seen little tiny birds there, maybe the wagtails, very small and also on the edge of the sea, a lot of funny little blue jellyfish things, a couple of inches long with tails attached, all along the edge of the water and seagulls with black beaks. We left at four o'clock. We saw kangaroos here too.
The road back was unsurfaced through dense forest, we passed several termite mounds. We continued on Highway One to Batemans Bay and then turned off on the coast road. Similar to yesterday we had great difficulty in finding anywhere to stop for the night, all the appropriate places had ‘no tenting’ so we weren't sure if this applied to campervans as well. We stopped at Burrewarra Point and went for a little walk with lovely views along the coast and down. We were quite high up there and then we continued south through Broulee and as far as the Morouya River and found the road then continued along the north bank of this river. We suddenly saw a sign to a primitive camping site, decided to have a look and it was right by the sea, just in amongst the sand dunes really. There were motorhomes and things there and we just said this was our sort of place - all the campsites that we'd seen which weren't our scene at all with a lot of permanent caravans, huts etc. So we stopped there. We had gone down and had a look at the beach, came back and cooked supper, a nice steak. Adrian cooked outside and I cooked the vegetables inside. It got quite breezy, but we decided to sit out and in fact it was fine, about 70°F, so much cooler than the nights when we were first travelling. We had to pay $8 for privilege of staying there but we thought that wasn't too bad - £3, and we sat outside until about 8.30 when it was getting dark and we then came in. We're at Sandy Point or Morouya Head
Sandy Point campsite, Moruya Heads (Streetview 2010)
Adrian cooking supper at Sandy Point campsite
Rosie on Pretty Beach
A Roo at Pretty Beach
Sunday 22nd February. 126 km It felt quite cool when we first woke up soon after 7.00 but it rapidly became warm with a clear blue sky and then very hot. We sat outside and enjoyed breakfast on our newly acquired chairs and table (from Ali). Before we left we went down for a lovely swim - it couldn’t really be called a swim - a splash in the waves, on this beautiful, beautiful beach. quite chilly, so we then retired inside.
We came back and had a shower and eventually left at 10.30. We stopped at Moruya to fill up with diesel, check the tyres and clean the windscreen. We stopped at 11.30 for late elevenses in Bodalla State Forest and afterwards went for a pleasant walk to Lake Mummuga. The only problem being it didn't tell you where the walk finished and suddenly there was a sign saying 'Stop, felling trees during this period' and although we didn't think they would be on a Sunday. We weren't sure if the walk returned a different way or not, but we retraced our steps. We saw a termite mound and photographed it. We left just after one o'clock.
We had been aware of a rattling sound this morning. I'd tried everything to stop things rattling in the cupboard, but at this stop we realised that we'd been travelling with the roof up and hope that that is the problem. We turned off just afterwards to the coast at Dalmeny and came to a most delightful spot where the river came out to the sea. There was a lot of sand and the water was varying depths with lots of fish in it. We had a lovely time after having lunch, walking down this bit of river to the sea which had big waves in it and then wandering back up the river - I think I got nipped by a crab at one point. We left just before 3.00.
Rosie at Sandy Point, Moruya Head
A termite mound in the Bodalla State Forest
We rejoined the highway for short distance and turned off almost immediately to the left to a route to the coast. We were struck by a squeaking sound which we thought was the van. We pulled over and realised it was high in the trees above us. It sounded just like squeaky brakes. We continued along the coast road which was very beautiful with a lot of inlets of water. We came to Bermagui and then continued south. There's a lot of national park in this area and we didn't find anywhere to camp. We had actually changed counties. We then came to an unsurfaced section of the road which was pretty hard going. We did about 20 kilometres or so on this. Shortly after we joined the surfaced section, we turned off into the National Park to the coast to a place that was marked as camping. When we got there after a long and bumpy road, it said ‘no camping’ and there was in fact a campsite nearby. There were two other little dormobiles in the car park and several cars. We decided to stop – we decided the ‘no camping’ referred to tents. We went off for a walk to the lake and then to the beach and the sea. A beautiful beach, on a beautiful unspoilt coastline, which is just magnificent. We were in the Mimosa Rocks National Park. We walked along the beach to some rocks - the waves were splashing over them on the point and then came back up to the car park.
Rosie eating an icecream outside the Cheese Factory, Central Tilba
A lorry needing a bit of TLC at Central Tilba
We turned off on a short circle going through the historic town of Central Tilba from the turn of the century. Lots of little shops open, although it was Sunday - various craft shops. We bought an ice cream in one, and enjoyed looking around particularly the wooden gifts. It was set out in the hills - very attractive. We found a postcard of what it looked like originally, it was very barren at that time.
Adrian at Dalmeny
Adrian at Middle Beach Mimosa National Park
We got chatting to a young couple. He was German and she was Spanish and they'd been travelling around and camping. They seemed to ‘have been everywhere man', they'd been round Australia once before. After we'd chatted to this interesting couple for quite a while, we went and cooked our steaks. The wind had got up and it had become cloudy and by the time we ate it was nearing 8 o'clock. We sat outside but in fact it did feel quite chilly, so we then retired inside.
Monday 23rd February 97 km A cool night, the night had cleared as we went to bed and we could see the stars. We woke up to a clear blue sky and Adrian went off and met a New Zealander from Christchurch living in Melbourne and had quite a chat to him. He had been wiling away the day because there wasn't enough surf. We came back and breakfasted outside in the sunshine. A bird had driven us nearly potty with a monotonous squawk, on one note. Every now and again it sounded like someone was throttling him and then it was back to his same monotonous note. We did hear the other birds making their sound like chime bells. Again, we think each one was making one note but different birds on different pitches sounded like bells chiming. I saw a little blue fairy wren, but also tiny, tiny birds which looked like little blue hummingbirds. We left at 9.30. We crossed Mogareeka inlet, just before Tathra. Another very beautiful spot with surf out on the sea and a very calm inlet. We parked and walked out to the end, it was quite breezy and back again. At Tathra we visited the old wharf, a restored wharf of 100 years ago and the small museum above it, which we visited using National Trust cards and has been restored by the National Trust of Australia
. Beautiful views up the coast but a much cooler wind today. We drove up afterwards to a lookout position where the old road had gone, before it had been washed away in the storm of 74. We took a bit of video and had a cup of coffee. We left at 11.30. We came into Merimbula, another beautiful place. We shopped in Woolworths and then went on past so that we could have somewhere for lunch. There was a cold breeze initially, but we went down to the beach and had our lunch and lots of goodies that we had bought. There were lots of seagulls around us by the time we'd finished lunch and the beach became crowded with people - crowded, meaning total of 20 perhaps - particularly a group with three children who kept niggling the whole time. I enjoyed having a sunbathe and just lying in the sand. The seagulls by now had gone. It was quite an exquisite location as were many others - turquoise water, white sand, green trees, clear blue sky and interesting red rocks
. We left at 3 o'clock, had a brief look at the rough sea on the south side of Merimbula and then continued south. We drove on to Eden and stopped down by the wharf briefly and then drove on to a lookout, looking across to Boyd's Tower on the other side of this large inlet. We drove south of Eden and stopped in a rest area 21 kilometres south at Scrubby Creek Rest Area. We found a couple there in the motorhome who we'd seen a bit earlier on at Merimbula, chatting to them for a while and then we got ourselves settled in listening to bellbirds - we'd found out the name of these sonorous birds. It felt remarkably cool. After supper of stir fried chicken, which we had inside, we listened to our recordings on cassette of our travels in the South Pacific. This we found really enjoyable, reliving all those times. Afterwards just before 10.30, we stepped outside, the temperature was 55°F. The stars were more than I've ever seen in my life, rather hidden by the tall trees , but millions and millions of them and the only sounds outside were those of the birds. The dead silence was broken by the occasional bird waking up, the bellbirds or the rustling of a kangaroo coming through the undergrowth.
Rosie above the Old Wharf at Tathra
The red rocks at Merimbula
Tuesday 24thFebruary 160 km A very chilly night. We were deep in the trees here so we actually had breakfast inside. I'd got very solid, Big Momma lips from too much sun, and we were ready to leave soon after 9.30. We drove south along Highway One, stopping at Drummer Rain Forest for elevenses arriving around about 11.00. We talked, Adrian in particular talked to a couple from Adelaide. About 12.00 we went on the rainforest walk, which was warm temperate rainforest and very attractive. By now, the sun was very hot, and we left the site around about 1.00 pm. We now needed to find somewhere for lunch, and it was a while before we could find anything resembling a pull off in the shade. We came to Cann River, there was a little park with picnic tables there but they seemed to be in this sun, anyway, we had passed before we realised - we were by the way in Victoria now and had been since before Genoa. We eventually found a little pull off beside the road, no picnic tables but we put out the table and chairs from Ali, which had been wonderful, and sat in the shade and had a very pleasant lunch time and left there at 2.15. We soon turned off to the coast at Cape Conran. We stopped here and parked beside a beautiful bit of beach and we went for a half hour or so trek along the beach, someone had been making a walkway and then on to a bit of a nature trail and back again, lots of banksia trees in this area. The bay was called Cowrie Bay, and we did find a big cowrie shell and as we returned to the van, there was a group of three ladies and two gentleman who had come out for the day and they chatted to us. We left just after 4.00.
We drove along beside the coast to Marlo. There was a sandspit offshore here making a lagoon which was very attractive, it seems to be a Coastal Park.
Swarm of bees at Cape Conran
Adrian at Cowrie Bay
When we got to Marlo, we drove down little road towards the jetty and found what seemed an ideal place to stop at the end of the road looking out into the lagoon and then the sandspit
. There was a fresh breeze. We walked along in the trees, and then back along the beach. The four people that we'd seen pass us in their car just before we arrived at this spot waved to us. We had a lovely evening here with the beautiful sun going down and we took a picture of the sunset. We later phoned Ali and Lyn & John and Hil & Doug and left a message for them.
The lagoon at Marlo
Our overnight spot at Marlo (streetview 2023)
Sunset at Marlo
Wednesday 25th February. 107 km A beautiful morning. We were in the shade but the beach was in the sun. We had a cup of tea sitting in the cab looking out to the two fishermen who had been out last night and who had come back but gone off again in their boat. We watched pelicans on the water. It looked enticing and we actually finished the cup of tea sitting on the sand and then decided to go for a swim, followed by a shower. Adrian turned on the hot water for the first time we'd done this - but the hot and cold were the wrong way round so I ended up with a cold shower thinking that it wasn't working. We just enjoyed being here. It was really calm after the wind of last night. We sat on the beach having breakfast looking out over the lagoon. It was slightly thin cloud above us, but pleasantly warm. It was just one of those idyllic spots we should always remember. We left just after 9.30. There had been a Swiss couple with a little boy, French speaking, with a small 'pop top' where we were staying and they left about the same time. We then followed up beside the Snowy River towards Orbost, a wide river with green grass and willow trees beside it in the flat open plain very English. We stopped at a beautiful tranquil spot beside the river - there was a kingfisher and lots of other birds. It was very warm in the sunshine , again it seemed very English, very lovely.
.We joined the Princes Highway again at Orbost where there was a long wooden trestle viaduct which pleased Adrian enormously. We stopped soon after at a rest area at Newmerella, where we were able to fill the water tank and empty the loo, two essential jobs for today. It was very hot and sunny by now. We made this a coffee break, and soon after we pulled in, the French couple as they were not Swiss, pulled in as well and we had a chat to them. They were travelling around the world and had been to Egypt and Jordan and had bought this vehicle from an Englishman who had bought it from a Frenchman from Switzerland, which is why it had a Swiss sign on the back. They are travelling around for four months and then going on to New Zealand and Polynesia. We thought that was quite adventurous with a little toddler. We left soon after 11.00 and just after Nowa Nowa we turned off on a three kilometre dirt road. It was very sandy initially and soft, to a fine old wooden trestle, railway bridge built in 1916. We stopped to view it. The heat was intense as we climbed up to the top by the track and then back down and left at midday.
As we arrived at Lakes Entrance we pulled into a petrol station, filled up with diesel and Adrian filled the gas bottle. I got some milk and some batteries and at this point Hilary phoned so we had a chat to her. We had lunch just along by the lagoon at Lakes Entrance, sitting in the shade at a picnic table and feeding the crumbs to the seagulls who moved in after we left. We stopped at the Visitor Centre Tourist Information and found out that unfortunately, the raft tour that we'd been interested in for tomorrow, being my birthday, isn't running anymore and other raft tours also aren't running because of the lack of water. We'd seen black swans and pelicans. We then stopped on the hill out of Lakes Entrance and had a panoramic view - 180 degrees of sea, lakes, sand and trees.
We drove on to Bairnsdale, which is where we'd asked our post to be sent to and it was very very hot by now. We'd parked down by the post office, collected our post from a very dour woman and Adrian hid it from me because there appeared to be one or two birthday cards. We had a walk around the town, unsuccessfully looking for items, to buy. Such things as knickers, a swimming costume, and a vest-top, all of which I'd wanted, but it seemed all the clothes were wintry and nothing as ordinary as a best t-shirt. We'd also looked around several other shops, camping shops and very cheapo shops where we bought two bowls for $2 - 40p a bowl, so I could do the washing up in small bowls and dustpan and brush for $2. We returned to our very hot vehicle. We crossed the bridge of the Mitchell River and on a little offshoot of the river, we parked ourselves. It was only about 4.30. but anyway, we stopped there. We looked through lots of leaflets because having thought we'd do this rafting down the river which didn't work out, we then were wondering what to do for my birthday. So I spent a lot of time looking through the local leaflets. A couple of chaps came down in their pickups, each with a dog, the dogs had a swim and one of the chaps had a swim also and chat to us. He said "you picked a nice spot for this ‘arvo’" and he chatted quite a bit. We were having a beer and crisps, the dog tried to get my crisps. We had a swim in the river ourselves to cool off. We then decided to walk back up into Bairnsdale which we did, and found the Old Port, or evidence of the Old Port apparently, beside the Mitchell River and walked down to the centre of the town with some sort of lawns down the centre of the wide central street. There was a bandstand looking thing apparently a replica of one in Cairo, looking very British.
View back down across lakes Entrance, Victoria
There was Catholic Church with murals in it, but there was a service going on so we just peeked in the door. We came back to our spot and cooked a meal - chicken stir fry. Quite idyllic, very still, very warm. The meal was lovely and it was lovely sitting out there. The wine was a bad choice, very, very sweet. It went nicely with some fruit salad for afters which we had to come in to eat because the mosquitoes were attacking us despite putting stuff on. Very, very warm, 80°F still outside - a very warm evening
The bandstand at Bairnsdale (Flicker 2022)
Our overnighter in Howitt Park, Bairnsdale - (Streetview 2018)
The trestle bridge near Nowra Nowra
Adrian by the beautiful Snowy River
Thursday 26th FebruaryRosie's Birthday 113 km My 55th birthday, the warmest one I've ever had. We woke early, had a cup of tea in bed and opened all my cards of which there were many - all the family and sisters and a couple of friends. Several letters to read as well. A few presents to open and plenty of time to do that in. After enjoying that, we got up and had a swim in the river which was cooling. After a shower, we rang and spoke to Paul and Nicky to wish Nicky Happy birthday, and my 55th Birthday and saying that Adrian had cooked yummy pancakes breakfast sitting outside in the shade beside the river.
A little group of canoeist came down with an instructor, seven young lads for their first canoeing instruction, so this was going on all around about us. We were the latest ever leaving this morning, in fact it was 11 o'clock. We'd mislaid several items, which we eventually found except Adrian's glasses which appear to have been left somewhere. We drove back into Bairnsdale and went to Cole's supermarket, and bought a couple of bottles of wine, water, a Lamington cake, one or two other things and then went to a motorists shop - exciting. It was very very hot. We drove off to the Macleod Wetland Reserve but there was nothing to see there, but we got stuck down a road which only went to a cattle market and said one way. Then it said stop, so we had to go back to where it said 'wrong way go back'. We then found our way onto the Paynesville road and turned off to Eagle Point where one is supposed to look out over silt jetties. We could see bits of land stretched out from the head obviously built up of sand bars. We saw an emu.
Breakfast beside the river
The Temperature was 39°C, 102°F. We dove on to Paynesville. This area was flat and lots and lots of land and water. From there we were hoping to take a ferry to Raymond Island a very short distance and it had in our book a free vehicle ferry but you now had to pay a little bit for it. We decided though to go across as passengers and hire bikes on the other side, which we'd been led to believe you could do - the heat was just incredible. We sat under a little Lions Club shelter with a table for my birthday lunch, which included a Lamington cake with two number five candles which we light with difficulty. In retrospect we shouldn't have lit at all because there's actually a total fire ban on today. It was windy and very, very hot.
Emu
We then walked along to get the ferry which we did. On arriving at Raymond Island we realised on foot we weren't going to get anywhere and there weren't any bikes to hire, so we came back again. We walked along in the heat, collected the vehicle and drove onto the ferry. A chap in a Land Rover behind us started chatting. We put our money in the machine to get a ticket and it didn't work. No worries he said just tell the chap. This man then invited us to his house later, for a cup of tea. He was a part time fireman, as was the driver of the ferry, and they were living in dread of the fire alarm going off because of the incredible heat. We drove along the island, there was supposed to be a place where there are koalas but we don't hold out much hope seeing them. Our faces were as red as they were, walking in the Dordogne. We stopped by a remote little beach, which was a bit weedy underfoot, but had a very cooling swim in this incredible heat - now 42°C. We drove round some more of the island and didn’t see very much, so a little disappointed at that. But then we started walking along a track and we did spy two koalas in separate trees which were actually sitting on Banksia trees just to fool us - not in Eucalyptus, obviously just sitting during the heat of the sun.
Rosie's birthday lunch with illegal candles
So that made our day, that on my birthday, we had seen our first koalas in the wild. We drove back to the ferry, stopping at a little sign saying miniature animals. We didn't know what this was, but it was about the only thing signposted on the island and a rather hot woman said that no they weren't open she was too hot. So we took the ferry back - a total of four ferry trips. It was still incredibly hot at 4.30. We had another swim before we left Paynesville, and we saw a pelican and black swans. We took a cross-country road to Stratford. It was a long, rather flat, brown and monotonous road. We came into Wellington Shire. There was Lake Wellington and a place called a Stratfield Saye. We continued to Stratford and decided to go into the campsite as there was a total fire ban on everywhere here, which meant it would have been difficult for us to stay not on the campsite because fires were banned of any description unless you were on a campsite [including gas cookers]. The campsite actually proved to be pretty good, cost $14 and it included the adjacent swimming pool free, showers and we needed the air conditioning because it's so hot, so we settled ourselves in here, put the air conditioning on and went for a swim - this is our fourth swim of the day.
Koala up a Banksia tree, Raymond Island
It was quite cool so we didn't stay in long. We then had a shower, immaculately clean showers, and came back and decided to go out into Stratford to see if there was anywhere for us to have a meal for the evening but there were very few choices. We walked up and down the main street and there was a hotel that seemed to be the only place where we could have a meal. We went in there and had an excellent meal at reasonable cost. I had oysters to start and Adrian had a wonderful prawn cocktail. I had a fish platter and chips afterwards and Adrian had a ham steak.
Stratford Top Tourist Park - (streetview 2022)
Adjacent to us on a table was a group of five people, two couples and an extra chap by the name of Kevin and they started chatting to us. It turned out the three chaps all worked on oil rigs and two had their wives, plus Kevin who came from Hastings which was near Melbourne. They chatted to us quite a bit during the meal and asked us if we wanted to come and play pool and darts with them afterwards. We initially said no, but then the woman came back in and said, do come. As they left we talked to a couple on another table, who came from Tamworth between Brisbane and Sydney and they'd been to Tasmania. He owned a jewellers in Tamworth and was called Sandy McClinnon or some such Scottish name. We chatted to them for quite a while and finished our wine and then the other people did come back to collect us and take us to the house of one of the couples, Ken and his wife whose name we can't remember and the other couple were Vicki and Bruce, both of whom were very nice. Vicki was a bit like Alison Steadman in Abigail's party and Bruce was rather like Roger Sturgis, both very nice. We went back to the bungalow and went out to a room where there was a pool table and darts. Adrian played darts and we had a beer and I had port. We chatted to them for quite a while. Kevin was quite a lively lad, very likeable. Apparently he was giving a talk somewhere tomorrow. Two sons of the family were there, and we met them as well and the dog. We stayed there till about 11.30 chatting to them and it was only a short walk back then to the campsite.
Rosie's birthday meal at the Avon Hotel
When we came back we found that with the air conditioning on it was actually quite cool in the van and lightning had been lighting up all around. We think the change is on the way. It's not expected to be so warm tomorrow. But a miracle and different birthday for me.
Rosie on the walk back to the campsite
Friday 27th February. 75 km
What a difference a day makes. We were told it would get cooler as there was a ‘southerly change’ and certainly this morning was cool, grey, and drizzle. It had blustered a bit in the night and a few drops of rain. We weren't enticed to be up, but nevertheless I went ahead and collected up the washing and got that all sorted, although this wasn't the hot drying day like all the others. I put it in the tumble dryer for one go but should have put it for two and then put it all on the line, as it was still rather damp. I was able to iron it at no cost. This site had cost us $14 - £6 plus electricity and with the use of the swimming pool yesterday, although we didn't need that today. It was immaculately kept by a Dutch couple. We eventually left the site having emptied out the water in the tank, which was a brown colour from a tap we'd filled from a couple of days ago. We refilled with fresh water, did several cleaning jobs, and it was 11.30 when we left. We drove on into Sale where we located the shopping centre. I actually bought a couple of singlets, blue and cheaply and bought some rolls for lunch, went to the bank. We then rang the Bicknells and got hold of first Brian on his mobile and then soon afterwards, Brenda phoned and we intend to see them at Traralgon this afternoon [the Bicknells lived near us in Chievely, and Brian worked for the National Grid and was on a years transfer to a power station in Traralgon]. We stopped by a pleasant lake at Sale and made up some rolls and sat on a fitness bench to eat these. It was breezy but the sun was pleasantly warm, 70’s F - much more an English feel. We had a walk down beside the lake seeing several birds, before returning and leaving at 2 o'clock. We stopped at Rosedale for Adrian to have a snooze. We got to Traralgon and found the house and Brenda Bicknell and we chatted and chatted and decided to stay the night.
Brian came home in the evening and we had a meal with them and found out that they were both from Portsmouth and that Brian used to play in a supporting group with Manfred Mann [where Rosie & Adrian met in 1964]. We went to bed about midnight, and slept in their house. It was almost like a separate little flat with its room and loo and bathroom and which had a rather low bath in it.
Brian & Brenda Bicknell
Saturday 28th February. 177 km We got up and had a bath in this unusual experience. We had breakfast with Brenda and Brian and we left just before 10.00. We set off south on the Hyland Way, going through pretty undulating country, quite forested. We soon stopped at a scenic lookout tower and you could see over surrounding land for quite a way and had our elevenses here although it was only 10.30. We stopped in Yarram and got some bread, butter and cheese. We arrived at Port Welshpool and had our lunch, down by the pier surrounded by seagulls. We rang Lyn's brother [who lived there] but there was no reply. We then set off inland on a little tourist route into the hills, which are very green, very pretty, rather English looking and had lots of bird life. The views coming down the hill into Toora, looking across the water and then to the hills and to Wilson's Promontory, were glorious. We went through the pretty flowery town of Foster and then on to Wilson's Promontory National Park where we paid the entrance fee of $14.5 to go in and camp for the night. After a long drive down there, we stopped at a car park and walked down to a little bay called Whiskey Bay, which had some very large conglomerate type rocks.
Then we walked over the headland to the adjacent Picnic Bay, but we couldn't get back the other way as the tide was in.
So we returned the same way back to Whiskey Bay car park. We next went on the Lilly Pilly walk, advertised as five kilometres, a gentle walk which went through quite nice trees. We saw a brown wallaby and went on a little sort of boardwalk at the end to a rain forest bit, but the label was missing and the leaflet instructions were missing, so we didn’t find out much about it. A sign then said car park, but it didn't say it went halfway up the mountain and back down again before we got there. So we were a couple of hours on this walk. The walk was marred for me by being bitten badly by two mosquitoes. We then thought we'd go and find a place to camp. When we got to the camping area, which said it could hold 500 tents and caravans, we found it so overcrowded that we didn't think we'd ever find anywhere to stay. We'd seen hardly any people since we'd entered the park, now there were tents and caravans everywhere - it was Saturday night! It would seem all the people just came out from Melbourne, to this playground to camp for the night. We eventually found a little spot on the corner and having worked our way into it, we chatted to the couple next door who had a little tent and had travelled to Europe last year. We had quite a chat to them. We went for a walk to the beach, it was quite lovely in the fading light and after supper we invited the couple in. They were called David and Jacinta . She was the second youngest of 10 children and a nurse although she didn't enjoy it. They came in and chatted to us until about 10 o’clock.
Whiskey Bay (streetview 2014)
Rosie at Picnic Bay
Sunday 1st March. 178 km We thought it would be a cold night as it had got quite chilly last night, but in fact, it wasn't but the morning was very still and grey. After breakfast, we set off for a walk to Squeaky Beach, having looked at the visitor centre first. Squeaky Beach had the most beautiful white sand which is meant to squeak as you walk on it, and we made it into a circular walk by coming round partly on the road, and then back on the Lilly Pilly link track and past Whale rock.
We drove back down and on to Darby Beach car park where we walked a kilometre or so down the very pretty sandy track to the beach, which was of a much coarser sand and strewn with the small rocks. On the way back we had an absolute delight of seeing an echidna, an anteater and photographing it in the bushes just beside the track. We arrived back at 3.15 to the van.
Rosie at the lookout from the Mt Oberon carpark
. By the time we got back to the van, it was 12.30, so we decided to sit out and have lunch. The sun now came out and it was very hot. We said goodbye to the couple from next door and in fact, the place had emptied out considerably. We drove up to Mount Oberon car park, where lots and lots of other people had parked and also along the road before it. We didn't walk to the top of Mount Oberon, we just had a view out down to the sea.
Rosie on the bridge across Tidal River by Whale Rock
We drove to Fish Creek and then on to Inverloch where we stopped to fill up with diesel and then round towards Cape Paterson where we stopped at Eagle's Nest and saw a strange looking rock out to sea. We stopped and had a little walk to it.
We continued to Wonthaggi and then onto Phillip Island. We'd wondered what to do here, whether to try to watch the penguins and if so how you went about it. However the visitor centre was closed, so we carried on to Cowes - wonderful names here - and found a campsite which was expensive at $10 each. The information there said you just get tickets to view the penguins when you get down there so then it was rush job to get some food to eat. The views down Phillip Island were lovely. We headed off down to the beach where they have the penguin parade. We weren't sure we liked all the sound of the razzmatazz that went with it. We found a quite large car park, parked and walked up to the visitor centre, paid our $9 each and joined all the other people waiting on the beach for the penguins to come out of the water. We watched the light fade from the sky, and then lights came on high above us like a football stadium, and it was a bit like waiting for a football match to start, sitting on the terraces. We'd wrapped up warmly with our fleeces and goodness knows what as it was pretty chilly, simply just sitting still. After what seemed a long time of waiting, the penguins did start their little parade up from the sea, in small groups and quite hard to see and it dragged on a bit. After about 40 minutes or so of us sitting watching this, we decided to get up and see what else was going on, and found that you could actually see all the penguins walking back to their burrows and this was far more exciting. Seeing the little penguins waddling along, making a terrific row, the ones in the burrows calling to the others.
An Echidna at Darby Beach
Eagles nest near Cape Paterson
View to Cape Paterson from Eagles Nest
We stayed there, until it was time to leave in fact, watching one lot after another. A little rabbit was in amongst them, and up above us were some shearwaters, that they call mutton birds here for some reason, swooping around above us. We drove back to the campsite in the dark, the first time Adrian had driven this vehicle in the dark. We really had got quite chilly, so we warmed ourselves, me with a whiskey and Adrian with a beer and with a packet of crisps. We tried to phone Simon again but got no reply.
Fairy Penguins, Philip Island
Monday 2nd March 45 km + tow
A comfortable night, we lay in bed trying to plan our next few days. We telephoned Simon and got through to him, we had showers and didn't leave until after 10.00. We drove into the little town of Cowes. Very Isle of wight feeling, looking beautiful, with beautiful beaches. We stopped at a not very impressive supermarket and replenished our stock and then took the road towards Rhyll. We drove on down to Rhyll, a small settlement beside the water looking rather like Lymington, lots of boats out, very, very peaceful and we made our tea and coffee and sat by the water and had chocolate shortbread and enjoyed ourselves.
We left just before midday. We drove to Churchill Island but our vehicle was too big to go across the bridge, and there was an entrance fee - we didn't stay. Well, pride comes before a fall they say and what had seemed an idyllic situation deteriorated rapidly. We crossed to the mainland at San Remo and started driving up the coast towards Melbourne. Everything was hunky dory, we'd made all our plans, wondering which things we're going to do, as we lay in bed this morning, when all of a sudden there was a loud noise from the engine. Adrian stopped immediately and pulled over. Luckily there was somewhere to pull over to and we sat for a few minutes wondering the best plan of action. We tried ringing John at Woodhaven and got no reply. Today was the day that they were leaving to go to Tasmania prior to flying to England. We thumbed through lots of books and we eventually rang the number John had said in case of a breakdown, which meant somebody would come and tell us somewhere to go. It didn't go as easily as planned - they said where did we want to go - we didn't know where we wanted to go because we didn't know exactly where we were or where anywhere might be that we'd want to go to. We had more phone calls and the be all and end all of all these phone calls were that we pulled up the road a bit and into a place which was an animal park and crafts centre and tea shop. So we were able to park up in the car park there and wait for a chap to come and tow us into Melbourne, which was the final decision that was made. He arrived actually within an hour. We'd had a little look around the craft shop and had actually seen a wombat out in the back. We had made a roll to eat for lunch but we were feeling quite despondent, Adrian more than me at that particular point, I think he realised the severity of it and I hoped it wasn't as bad as it seemed. We had finally managed to get through to John - we'd be ringing Woodhaven nonstop and got engaged - it would appear that the phone was off the hook, but we'd got John just before we'd left here.
The pier at Rhyl, Philip Island
We had a trip into Melbourne, pretty boring countryside, and then into suburbia, which was even more boring. I spoke to John again on the journey. The chap driving us, was a man of very few words He lit a cigarette at one point and had a drink from a bottle at another and phoned at another and still seemed to manage to drive his vehicle. We stopped in an outer part of Melbourne, at Clayton at a workshop where a chap came out, looked at it and decided it was pretty big, it was the main bearing that had gone. It would mean having a new engine which would be the cheapest thing or else repairing it. Anyway, it was going to be a big and difficult job and at that moment, they didn’t think they would find a reconditioned engine anywhere. After some time, they managed to back us down off the breakdown vehicle onto the forecourt of the adjacent premises, where a man and woman were working, both of whom were very nice to us. The woman in particular was very helpful and chatted to us quite a bit, over the next few hours. John phoned again early evening, we don't know what the outcome is going to be. John & Lyn are on their way to Tasmania tomorrow, arriving in Melbourne tonight. We had great anxieties of what the outcome of this situation will be. We were in the vehicle for that night, and we'd located the railway station, about 20 minutes walk away so that we could go into Melbourne tomorrow but after that we had no idea where we're going to stay or what we would have for transport. Then it was my turn to get a bit down, we walked back from the railway station and we'd spotted a little tiny 1930 Austin Seven opposite, and we talked to the chap who owned that and then came back and cooked our meal, Adrian outside on the stove and me on the stove in the van in this suburban industrial part of Melbourne.
The coaster hooked up on a big breakdown truck
Not the most salubrious Kitchen - Outside Hourigans, Clayton
Tuesday 3rd March 0 km + train
We had a reasonably good night. We'd had a bottle of wine to drown our sorrows. We were awake quite early with people arriving for work in this industrial estate. John arrived when we were having breakfast. Lots of discussion going on. We decided after he'd left to head into Melbourne for the day and hope for the best. We left about 11.00 for Melbourne on a sunny morning, it was already very warm, and there was a clear blue sky all day. We walked back into Clayton past the shops, we were looking for somewhere to get the photographs done. We eventually found somewhere that did them matt and we are going to pick them up this afternoon. We then went to the station, we just missed a train in sorting our photos, but we spoke to a gentleman there who told us which fare to get. It was £3 each for the return fare which did include unlimited fares on the trams, a bit like getting a railcard. We felt very much like staying at Abbey Wood Campsite and getting the train up into London and apart from the blue sky, it felt very similar for our half hour journey, to travel up to the centre of Melbourne. We got out at a station called Melbourne Central, the very centre of it was underground, and walked around what's called the city. It seemed to be very busy and bustling and vibrant, lunchtime of course by now. We did buy a couple of rolls for lunch which were very good and we ate these in the Fitzroy Gardens, sitting in some shade. The gardens were very pleasant and lovely, lines of trees going down about 6 or 8 avenues out from on a radius. We visited Captain Cook's house, the house rebuilt from Great Ayton owned by the Cook family and we quite enjoyed that little bit of England. We saw the Fairy Tree, a tree with carvings of little fairies on it and the Tudor Village and flowers much like English gardens, green, pretty.
Other things we did today - sod's law - Cathay Pacific who we're travelling home with actually moved offices today. We did eventually find their office after lots of asking, and going up several floors, but they were now operating from the airport where we were not. So we weren't able to do our tickets for when we return to England. We also went to various places and eventually got a form, which we can fill in to reapply to extend our visas after the six months is up. The other thing that we did was to travel on the tram, the tourist tram is free, and goes in a sort of rectangle around the centre of Melbourne. We had a chatty lady sort of guide on there who was telling us, chatting to everybody, as they went and saying you can do this and you could do that. We were also entertained, if you like, by a woman who got on, I have a feeling she was Canadian - she had a maple leaf somewhere hidden on her. She was late to catch a bus down to Phillip Island and swearing every two seconds under her breath because she thought she was too late and miss it, but the Australians on the tram were saying no worries, no worries - we think she caught it. So we enjoyed a very warm day in Melbourne and went back hoping that things would have improved and be on the up by the time we got back to the van. We took the train ride back – it was quite busy by now and was sometime after five by the time we got to Clayton. We collected our photos which were good and we walked back in the hot sun and saw that John was there outside having a cigarette. When we reached there, we found that things were about as bad as they could possibly be, the engine was very much broken, had to be repaired and they couldn't find a replacement. John spent a lot of time phoning and Russell as we think he is, also spent a lot of time phoning and at the moment it's just a no go. So this news was about as depressing as it could possibly be for us, I couldn't think of any way out. We hung around a bit, there's nowhere for us to go of course, and sat out on a bit of curb stone in the shade and looked through the photos. The good news was we were able to stay in the vehicle for tonight and John also gave us the money for towing the vehicle in yesterday which we paid out, it was nearly $400. As soon as we could get into the vehicle, it's a very hot evening, well in the 80’s F, we looked through all the Tasmania stuff and our plan is that we go to Tasmania for perhaps a week and then go to Adelaide. We were travelling with the Tanners to an Aboriginal settlement, but they had expected us to be in our van which we would have used to sleep in, so other arrangements will have to be made. We then got on preparing our meal and had some wine and hoped that things will go on alright.
Wednesday 4th March 0 km + train
We'd heard quite a lot of noises in the night, presumably the security man coming and phone calls were ringing extremely loudly, vibrating through the garage and workers arrived early. We started preparing for a day in Melbourne. We heard that John might have found an engine, up north somewhere. We set off at about 9.30 having had breakfast. and having decided to make plans to go to Tasmania for a week, if that was possible. We were told that whatever happened, the van wouldn't be ready for a week. We took the train in again, it was a pleasant morning, but the day was nothing like as hot as yesterday. We got out at Parliament Station and went first again to the visa office to ask if you could go for just one week out of the country, if that was long enough, to get re-entry and we had that confirmed. We then set off for the Tasmanian tourist office, but first of all went in Thomas Cook, which was opposite to ask about trips possibly to Bali in a few months time, just to get some idea of prices. We found that people in these places are just like people in England, they can only work by what's in front of them and what their computer tells them and try to get you pinned down to a certain place in a certain hotel and all sorts of things like that, but we just wanted to know general ideas. We did find out that it wasn't particularly cheaper from Darwin as it's only a small place. That's where we'll hope to be at the time, so there's a lot of future thought about that. We then went to the Tasmanian Tourist office, and had a big surprise and found that unlike in England when you can go in and snap up last minute bargain holidays, it works the other way here and bargains have to be booked at least a week ahead and pay full price if you want to go now. We were rather disconcerted at this, but were told of a firm which ran standby flights. We were also told Tasmania will be very busy this weekend, as it was long weekend and we would be unlikely to get anything anyway. We set off on a trek to find the other place, made a phone call and located where it was, up in one of the tall buildings and a pleasant surprise when we got there. We were dealt with by a very efficient and pleasant young girl called Belinda and the end result was that we did end up with what sounded like a package which seemed reasonably priced. We had to say which hotels we'd be in and which night as Tasmania is obviously going to be very busy over the coming week and just going on the off chance we probably wouldn't get anywhere to stay. So we left with that to be confirmed later in the day and then set about enjoying some of Melbourne, which despite my misgivings of never had any particular feeling for it or wanting to visit it, found it a very pleasant city, very bustling and busy and vibrant and happy. We made our way down towards the river. It was now lunchtime and we sat down and had the rolls which I prepared earlier, as we had some food to use up before our travels, a nice silverside beef and salad things. We then decided to hire a tandem for half an hour and we had a very genial fellow chatting to us at the bike hire. We then had great fun cycling along together, ‘one behind the other’, along one side of the river where Water Skiing Championships were taking place with a lot of noise over the tannoy. When we came back after our allotted half an hour the chap said "Oh why are you back so soon didn't you enjoy it? Why don't you go the other way - so we did. We came to some fountains which really took our fancy, they just sort of spurted up out of the ground at all random patterns - great fun. So we actually had about an hour total and this for the total price of $10. We didn't even give the chap a deposit, as we didn't read about that till we came back, but he didn't bother.
All in the Fitzroy Gardens, Melbourne
Adrian by Captain Cooks parent's house
Captain Cook's Statue
The fairy Tree (flicker photo)
Even less salubrious tonight
We then set off to walk to the Botanic Gardens across parkland, and we soon soon found ourselves in there which were very pleasant. The remarkable thing here were hundreds and hundreds of bats hanging up in the trees and flying off very, very noisily. There were some cockatoos to add to the noise and also black swans. We had afternoon tea here, scones and jam and cream and a cup of tea and the black swan thought he'd have the last bite of my scone but I thought otherwise.
Two up in Melbourne
We had a phone call during the time in the Botanic Gardens confirming our trip to Tasmania, but we had to change some of the hotel nights and it certainly wasn't as we'd planned. Hobart was obviously just booked out completely and we couldn't get a nights stay there, which was a pity. But we're very pleased with the rest of the deal. After the Botanic Gardens, we walked on down to Albert Park, where the Grand Prix starts tomorrow. It was all cordoned off, but I took a photo of Adrian by the Grand Prix sign and then we caught a tram back into town
It was now gone 5 o'clock and we made our way back home to Clayton - I called it home but wonder what was going to await us this time. We took the train back and bought a Daily Mail newspaper, arriving about 6.30. This time we found that the gates were locked and in the place where our bus had been was a huge, great truck, but we luckily found a little note pinned to the gate telling us to get the keys from opposite. This was the gentleman, Bill, that we'd seen earlier in the week with a little Austin seven, and we went across to him and he was very friendly and apologised for not being of more help to us and would like to have helped us more and gave us the keys for the garage and chatted about all the bits of cars that he'd owned. We then went across to find the bus which was inside the large garage workshop - the place gets more salubrious each night [ it was so bad that night, that there wasn't even a photo!]. But we were busy tonight anyway, immediately got some food and then set about trying to prepare planning and packing for the coming week and by 10 o'clock we're both pretty tired.
We did then go to the station and try to ascertain a bit about trains to Adelaide, if we need to do that next week. We then located the travel firm that we've been dealing with and collected our tickets, all neatly typed out and ready for us and very efficient and we're very pleased about that.
View of St Paul's Cathedral from Melbourne Railway Station