This diary was transcribed in 2024 from diaries Rosie recorded onto tapes, 25 years ago
Monday 2nd February.
We were planning to get up at 4.30 but in fact we heard noises at 4.00, someone else obviously getting up - the plumbing system made a noise and I'd got a bit of an upset stomach. We had a cup of tea and we left on the courtesy shuttle bus to the airport at 5.00, where everything went smoothly.
We didn't have to pay the departure taxes as we'd only been there less than 24 hours. We boarded the 7.00 am flight to Melbourne which was fairly empty. We had a trouble free flight and arrived at nine o'clock local time in Melbourne – the time had gone back two hours. Then Lyn & John (our exchange couple) met us and drove us to Albury. We stopped and bought a sandwich and had lunch in a park. We chatted a bit at Albury but felt very tired and slept till 8 o'clock in the evening. We got up to have supper and then back to bed about midnight.
Monday 2nd February.
We were planning to get up at 4.30 but in fact we heard noises at 4.00, someone else obviously getting up - the plumbing system made a noise and I'd got a bit of an upset stomach. We had a cup of tea and we left on the courtesy shuttle bus to the airport at 5.00, where everything went smoothly.
We didn't have to pay the departure taxes as we'd only been there less than 24 hours. We boarded the 7.00 am flight to Melbourne which was fairly empty. We had a trouble free flight and arrived at nine o'clock local time in Melbourne – the time had gone back two hours. Then Lyn & John (our exchange couple) met us and drove us to Albury. We stopped and bought a sandwich and had lunch in a park. We chatted a bit at Albury but felt very tired and slept till 8 o'clock in the evening. We got up to have supper and then back to bed about midnight.
Tuesday 3rd February
We awoke early, went down and had a cup of tea and sat around chatting. We had breakfast and then later went off with John, with Adrian driving the car into Albury. We drove around a bit, bought some shopping, took some films in and bought some sunglasses and a new Lonely Planet. We were very pleased to see the great selection of food in the shops and reasonably priced. We went across the bridge into Victoria State to the Gateway Village in Wodonga and looked around.
We awoke early, went down and had a cup of tea and sat around chatting. We had breakfast and then later went off with John, with Adrian driving the car into Albury. We drove around a bit, bought some shopping, took some films in and bought some sunglasses and a new Lonely Planet. We were very pleased to see the great selection of food in the shops and reasonably priced. We went across the bridge into Victoria State to the Gateway Village in Wodonga and looked around.
We came back and had lunch and I did some washing and sat around chatting during the afternoon. A warm sunny day.
Cockatoo in Gateway Village
Wednesday 4th February
A lovely warm day. We tried to phone both Tom and Simon - no luck there. After breakfast we walked down into Albury through the Botanic Gardens, by the Murray River, saw the Hovell Tree (commemorating Hume and Hovell’s discovery of the Murray in 1824). We called in and found out about the Paddlesteamer 'Cumberoona' which we hoped to have a trip on in a few days time. We then went on to the Albury Regional Museum.
A lovely warm day. We tried to phone both Tom and Simon - no luck there. After breakfast we walked down into Albury through the Botanic Gardens, by the Murray River, saw the Hovell Tree (commemorating Hume and Hovell’s discovery of the Murray in 1824). We called in and found out about the Paddlesteamer 'Cumberoona' which we hoped to have a trip on in a few days time. We then went on to the Albury Regional Museum.
Adrian outside the house in Albury
Rosie by the Hovell Tree, Albury
We then went off in the car for a drive to Yackandandah where we stopped and looked in an antique shop then on to Beechworth where we had cake and tea in the Beechworth bakery and looked around the town.
Adrian by the Murray River with the 'Cumberoona' behind
We then went on to the Eldorado Gold Dredge. [This was a huge barge with a revolving chain bucket which floated in a little pond and worked it's way forward in the rich alluvial plain digging out at the front, sifting all the material and then throwing out the surplus out the back and slowly moving along. The dredge was vast and had to be assembled from 'bit's originally at enormous cost. However 70,500 ounces of gold and 1400 tons of tin were removed in the 18 years it operated from 1936.]. We walked around the outside of the pond.
Beechworth and the bakery
We left and went through Chiltern. All the towns around there were gold mining towns and had nice old buildings in them and had been restored as nice places to visit. We came back to Albury, had supper and chatted until 11 o'clock.
The Eldorado Gold Dredge (Trip Advisor 2024)
Thursday 5th February
For the first time this trip we slept in and didn't wake till at least 8.30, so it was a late start. We tried phoning Tom and had a message to ring him later, which in fact was this evening. We spoke to Simon. We spent most of the morning getting organised to go Woodhaven. I went through the first lot of photos and labeled them and we left after lunch. We set off with Lyn for Woodhaven, stopping on the way to visit friends - a woman who had broken her arm and hurt her foot. We arrived at Woodhaven, at Lankeys Creek, a lovely area, really in the country. The dwelling place there is a shed with a real dunny outside.
For the first time this trip we slept in and didn't wake till at least 8.30, so it was a late start. We tried phoning Tom and had a message to ring him later, which in fact was this evening. We spoke to Simon. We spent most of the morning getting organised to go Woodhaven. I went through the first lot of photos and labeled them and we left after lunch. We set off with Lyn for Woodhaven, stopping on the way to visit friends - a woman who had broken her arm and hurt her foot. We arrived at Woodhaven, at Lankeys Creek, a lovely area, really in the country. The dwelling place there is a shed with a real dunny outside.
We met the coaster and gave it the once over. We rang Thomas and spoke to him and then retired to the coaster for our first night of sleeping in it.
Adrian in the garage/shed at Woodhaven, Lankeys Creek
Friday 6th February
I didn't sleep very well as I had a cough troubling me. I got up to go out to the dunny. We spent the day getting sorted out and loading up the coaster.
I didn't sleep very well as I had a cough troubling me. I got up to go out to the dunny. We spent the day getting sorted out and loading up the coaster.
 "Route Map Albury to Lankeys Creek")
Later in the morning we went by car with Lyn, firstly, to a little area which was John's family's home and down to a little stream - a little water hole.
We then went to places round about, Walwa and Jingellic and to see friends of Lyn's up a very very long track, on top of the world. They were Terry and his wife Fay and daughter Kirsty – all very nice. We had a cup of tea with them and came back at lunchtime. John's son Trevor and his wife Claire were there and we talked to them quite a lot during the day. I put the Polynesia photos into an album. We had a meal all together and then came out to sleep in the coaster at Woodhaven.
We then went to places round about, Walwa and Jingellic and to see friends of Lyn's up a very very long track, on top of the world. They were Terry and his wife Fay and daughter Kirsty – all very nice. We had a cup of tea with them and came back at lunchtime. John's son Trevor and his wife Claire were there and we talked to them quite a lot during the day. I put the Polynesia photos into an album. We had a meal all together and then came out to sleep in the coaster at Woodhaven.
 being loaded Woodhaven, NSW, Australia.jpg)
Loading the 'Coaster' bus
 doing a wheel change on the Coaster (Platybus) at Woodhaven, NSW, Australia.jpg)
John insisted Adrian knew how to change a wheel - watched by Trevor
Saturday 7th February 90 km
John asked us if we wanted to go for a ride into the Australian outback, and we went with him visiting one or two remote dwellings and at one point a kangaroo or Wallaby crossed the track in front of us. We came back for breakfast and then left again with John. We went off in the coaster, Adrian driving, to Tumbarumba, 30 miles or so away, partly on an unsurfaced road, where we went shopping.
We came back and had a sandwich for lunch. Soon afterwards, we left in the coaster for Albury.
John asked us if we wanted to go for a ride into the Australian outback, and we went with him visiting one or two remote dwellings and at one point a kangaroo or Wallaby crossed the track in front of us. We came back for breakfast and then left again with John. We went off in the coaster, Adrian driving, to Tumbarumba, 30 miles or so away, partly on an unsurfaced road, where we went shopping.
We came back and had a sandwich for lunch. Soon afterwards, we left in the coaster for Albury.
 leaving Woodhaven, NSW, Australia.jpg)
We stopped off at Lyn's flat and collected our post and read our letters from Lena and Jane and a card from Ruby and some bank statements. We saw Lucy and Granger, as we were just leaving and then we went off to the supermarket and bought some goods to start us off in the coaster. When we got back Adrian's sister, Hil and her husband Doug had arrived. They were out from England for 2 months holiday, mostly the East Coast, as well
[The next paragraph is from Hil’s Diary]
What a funny reunion - it seemed like being at Hermitage or perhaps a New Forest Camp. We all talked non-stop about what we had done and where we had been. The clouds had been gathering all afternoon, and with much wind it started to rain just as Adrian was cooking the steak on the electric barbecue. But we did not care. We sat indoors and wined and dined and talked until very late - it was good – we went to bed at 11.15
The rain rained (which made the natives happy) and the wind blew throughout the night.
[The next paragraph is from Hil’s Diary]
What a funny reunion - it seemed like being at Hermitage or perhaps a New Forest Camp. We all talked non-stop about what we had done and where we had been. The clouds had been gathering all afternoon, and with much wind it started to rain just as Adrian was cooking the steak on the electric barbecue. But we did not care. We sat indoors and wined and dined and talked until very late - it was good – we went to bed at 11.15
The rain rained (which made the natives happy) and the wind blew throughout the night.
Rosie, Doug, Hil & Adrian meeting up at Albury
Adrian & Rosie in the Coaster, ready to leave Woodhaven
Sunday 8th February 0 km + Hil’s car
[Much of this is Hil’s diary]
We all slept in until about 9 o’clock - I guess the storms of the night had disturbed us. Rosie had a bad cough.
It was lovely to be together for breakfast, as we each continued to tell each other our tales of the last 2 or 3 weeks, and as the black clouds finally began to move away. By the time we were ready to go out, we were back to a blue sky and white clouds. Albury is an old Murray River port, and Adrian and Rosie had found out about a local trip on a wood-fired,"heritage" paddle steamer, the Cumberoona. They had been down to see about it a couple of days ago and the chap had said they needed a minimum of 8-10 people to run.
Hil had been really keen because "A trip on the Murray" had been on her list of "Things she'd like to do in Oz"! We went down early, but the man still would not make a decision until nearer 12 noon. So we went for a short walk along the bank. The river seemed to have plenty of water and was very fast flowing. Notices warned of dangers from cold (as it came from the mountains).
[Much of this is Hil’s diary]
We all slept in until about 9 o’clock - I guess the storms of the night had disturbed us. Rosie had a bad cough.
It was lovely to be together for breakfast, as we each continued to tell each other our tales of the last 2 or 3 weeks, and as the black clouds finally began to move away. By the time we were ready to go out, we were back to a blue sky and white clouds. Albury is an old Murray River port, and Adrian and Rosie had found out about a local trip on a wood-fired,"heritage" paddle steamer, the Cumberoona. They had been down to see about it a couple of days ago and the chap had said they needed a minimum of 8-10 people to run.
Hil had been really keen because "A trip on the Murray" had been on her list of "Things she'd like to do in Oz"! We went down early, but the man still would not make a decision until nearer 12 noon. So we went for a short walk along the bank. The river seemed to have plenty of water and was very fast flowing. Notices warned of dangers from cold (as it came from the mountains).
Back at the landing stage sufficient people had gathered to make the trip viable - although we had a short drama when a little motor boat (with no-one in it) came swirling down the river and the crew rushed off to catch it with a grappling iron. We were soon off. The clouds had cleared away now and it was very fresh and pleasant - like a lovely English summer day. First we "paddled" upstream - slowly against the strong current - as far as the bridge carrying the Hume Highway over the river. Then we turned downstream. It was a lovely trip - we all went up and chatted to the captain and had a steer. The banks were wooded, looking a bit like autumn in places, though we suspected the brown trees and bushes were simply dying from the 3 months drought.
The Cumberoona from our walk beside the fast flowing Murray River
The Cumberoona
We had drinks, bought postcards and chatted as we "paddled" along following the great big meanders of the river. The wood-burning engine was open to the lower deck, so you could see all the innards at work, and we could see the paddle-wheels going round through glass windows in the side.
Back from our lovely trip after 1½ hours, we headed off across the river bridge into Wodonga in Victoria, stopping at a tourist centre with craft and souvenir shops. We had a sandwich lunch in the Potter's Bar, then spent much time in the tourist office which had lots of information on both NSW and Victoria.
Back in Albury, we headed up Monument Hill, topped by a gleaming white war memorial, and with a grand view back down over the town.
Back in Albury, we headed up Monument Hill, topped by a gleaming white war memorial, and with a grand view back down over the town.
Hil, Doug, Adrian & Rosie on board the Cumberoona
Adrian's in charge
Sailing along the Murray
Adrian didn't last long - Rosie in charge now
Stoker at work
The boiler on the Cumbercoona
Next stop was Albury Railway Station (built 1882 and much restored), looking rather like a Victorian town hall. At 460m, its platform is the longest in NSW (or the southern hemisphere, depending on which book you read!). A goods train came through while we were there - what a bonus!. It only had one engine, but its trucks went on and on.
View down over Albury from Monument Hill
1st World War Memorial on Monument Hill
[footnote - The Cumberoona was originally built in 1906 and plied up and down the River Murray. It subsequently ‘fell apart’, but was built again with the original boiler/engine in 1987 for the Australian Bicentenary and the Queen actually went on it during the celebrations. However it was only run by volunteers and when it started to fall apart again, it was taken out of service in 2006 and lay derelict till 2015. It was then made watertight and sailed down river to Yarrawonga on Lake Mulwala - which has deep enough water to sail all year. It was ‘rebuilt’ and also fitted with a diesel-electric motor and so is now dual fuel and came back in service in 2019].
Next, a panicky rush to the shops (we were worried the liquor store might shut and we hadn’t got any wine!), before driving out to the Mungabareena Reserve by the Murray River at the eastern edge of the town. Here we had a pleasant walk along an aboriginal trail with information boards on campsites, initiation sites etc., and played in a hollow eucalyptus tree.
Albury Railway Station built 1881
Back home to pork chops on the electric barbecue (takes the fun out of trying to make the charcoal go), the back yard was a bit small and dark, so we ate inside. And then finally, we got down to seeing Rosie & Adrian’s Marquesas photographs!
It was good in that we had been hearing various stories of their exploits during the day, and the photos finally brought it all together. To bed - we both leave tomorrow. We could not believe we would not see each other for almost a year. It had been so "comfortable" being there together. Today there had been a very pleasant warmth - nothing like the sweaty heat of the past week.
It was good in that we had been hearing various stories of their exploits during the day, and the photos finally brought it all together. To bed - we both leave tomorrow. We could not believe we would not see each other for almost a year. It had been so "comfortable" being there together. Today there had been a very pleasant warmth - nothing like the sweaty heat of the past week.
Adrian, Hil & Doug in a hollow Eucalyptus tree
Iformation boards at the Mungabareena Reserve, Albury
Monday 9th February 113 km
I had a bit better night sleeping, but I had lost my voice. Hil & I were up early but Adrian did not seem to want to wake up.
[the next bit is from Hil’s diary].
Their Tiv - a Toyota Coaster (which we think should be called the Toaster) - was parked down on the road away from the house, which only has a narrow driveway past it. We went down to view the Toaster - and see all the things Rosie had been telling us about - the permanent bed at the back end with its pretty quilt - the toilet compartment with just the stand alone toilet and the shower - no basin or mirror even; and the general sparsity of the kitting out. But I am sure once they have got themselves organised they will be fine.
They got loaded up and Lyn turned up briefly just before we were to leave - Rosie had hoped to get away without seeing her again!
I had a bit better night sleeping, but I had lost my voice. Hil & I were up early but Adrian did not seem to want to wake up.
[the next bit is from Hil’s diary].
Their Tiv - a Toyota Coaster (which we think should be called the Toaster) - was parked down on the road away from the house, which only has a narrow driveway past it. We went down to view the Toaster - and see all the things Rosie had been telling us about - the permanent bed at the back end with its pretty quilt - the toilet compartment with just the stand alone toilet and the shower - no basin or mirror even; and the general sparsity of the kitting out. But I am sure once they have got themselves organised they will be fine.
They got loaded up and Lyn turned up briefly just before we were to leave - Rosie had hoped to get away without seeing her again!
We set off down the road to the shops in Albury and got a bit food, Adrian bought some shorts and I got some stuff for my contact lenses and some strong cough mixture. We met Hil & Doug again later for a final goodbye!
We then set off in brilliant blue sky towards the Snowy Mountains. We followed the Murray Valley Highway and stopped besides Lake Hume in a picnic site and found a table in the shade to have our first lunch of our travels
We then set off in brilliant blue sky towards the Snowy Mountains. We followed the Murray Valley Highway and stopped besides Lake Hume in a picnic site and found a table in the shade to have our first lunch of our travels
 and goodbye to Hilary & DougW, Albury, NSW, Australia cropped.jpg)
, Albury, NSW, Australia.jpg)
 ready to leave, Albury, NSW, Australia.jpg)
Adrian & Rosie ready to leave Abury
Rosie showing Hil & Doug around the coaster
Adrian saying goodbye to Hil & Doug
. We got some petrol at Tallangatta - this was a town that had been moved from a few miles up the valley which was going to be flooded as they flooded the Mita Mita river to make Lake Hume. The whole town was picked up and moved further along the valley. Very hot sunshine, very dry, and little bits of green around the water.
I dozed a bit and then just before Corryong, we decided to pull off for Adrian to have a rest. It was now nearing four o'clock, a lovely little spot, lots of green trees around and a small river running by and an outdoor table made of strange green plastic. It was rather nice and so we decided that this would be a good place to stop for the night and get ourselves organised, so we spent a happy few hours getting homes for everything in the coaster.
I dozed a bit and then just before Corryong, we decided to pull off for Adrian to have a rest. It was now nearing four o'clock, a lovely little spot, lots of green trees around and a small river running by and an outdoor table made of strange green plastic. It was rather nice and so we decided that this would be a good place to stop for the night and get ourselves organised, so we spent a happy few hours getting homes for everything in the coaster.
Adrian at the picnic site at Lake Hume
Lake Hume
We then cooked a meal, Adrian cooking with little frying pan over the gas bottle outside. He cooked beef schnitzel and mushrooms, fried potatoes and I cooked the beans inside. We sat outside at this nice little table with a cloth on it. The temperature was very pleasant, and we enjoyed the surroundings and freedom at last and then we moved inside for the night.
 at our first night stop near Corryong, Victoria, Australia.jpg)
 at our first night stop near Corryong, Victoria, Australia.jpg)
Rosie at our first night's stop picnic area near Corryong
Adrian cooking supper at our first night's stop picnic area near Corryong
Tuesday 10th February 102 km
My cough had been troubling me still, but it was lovely to wake up in this beautiful setting, just a pull off the road but very little traffic. We just enjoyed doing what we'd come here to do, just being out in the middle of nowhere. We leisurely got ourselves organised and got breakfast and did a bit more sorting and left at 10 o'clock.
At Corryong we stopped first of all, at Jack Riley's grave, 'the man from Snowy River' and then we stopped at a little museum absolutely crammed full of exhibits and also outside exhibits.
My cough had been troubling me still, but it was lovely to wake up in this beautiful setting, just a pull off the road but very little traffic. We just enjoyed doing what we'd come here to do, just being out in the middle of nowhere. We leisurely got ourselves organised and got breakfast and did a bit more sorting and left at 10 o'clock.
At Corryong we stopped first of all, at Jack Riley's grave, 'the man from Snowy River' and then we stopped at a little museum absolutely crammed full of exhibits and also outside exhibits.
.We spent a happy hour wandering around looking at all the memorabilia. We stopped at the entrance of the Kosciuszko National Park and had lunch outside on a little roundabout. We then went into the visitor centre and had look around at stuff and found out all about the National Park and paid our $12. Just after we came into the National Park and just off the road we saw a dead wombat, bloated besides the road, looking rather like a blown up brown bear. We started ascending a high steep hill and had to stop for roadworks where they were doing the wires across the road and we had to get through a very narrow gap that was left for us. We came to the power station viewing area with the huge white pipes which carry the water through the mountains for Snowy Mountains Hydro Electric scheme which both of us remember learning about at school. We drove on round to the actual power station and this meant going on a road where lots of trees had fallen down in heavy rains and storm the other night. When we got down there, we went in and there was an entry charge to go around and so we decided we'd seen enough of things today.
Jack Riley's grave
We returned to the main road. After about ¾hour, we came across a small rest area at Tom Groggin, pulled in and decided this was the place for tonight. It was right by the Murray River and it was not long before we were both in there for a lovely swim. There were several kangaroos hopping around the site, and after supper I wrote several postcards.
Hydro Electric scheme in the Snowy Mountains
A Kangaroo at the beautiful Tom Groggin
Rosie swimming in the young Murray River at Tom Groggin
Wednesday 11th February 136 km
We didn't wake up that early and it wasn't that sunny at first. There were a lot of flies around which was the only hazard, everything else here was absolutely beautiful. We had breakfast outside and last night, put up some of our photographs and pictures making it seem very homely. We were getting more and more organised and left Tom Groggin at 9.30.
We didn't wake up that early and it wasn't that sunny at first. There were a lot of flies around which was the only hazard, everything else here was absolutely beautiful. We had breakfast outside and last night, put up some of our photographs and pictures making it seem very homely. We were getting more and more organised and left Tom Groggin at 9.30.
We stopped briefly at Leatherbarrel Creek, we just looked at the stream there and all the eucalyptus around. We stopped at Dead Horse Gap which is the highest point on the road at 1582 metres. There were walks out from here but they looked quite serious walks, different trails into the wilderness. There were nice views all around. We stopped at an alpine resort, a little village with the name of Thredbo and from here we took a chairlift up the mountainside. We could have walked on further, but we decided to do the walk back down. Initially this wasn't very nice, it was just a steep track like a road track, but we soon found our way on to a nature trail part of it and it was an hour and a half or so walking down the mountain side, sometimes very steeply, but very pretty. There were pretty butterflies around, a few flowers, trees and trees and trees and we arrived back down in Thredbo and had a look at the bobsleigh and then returned to our van.
Adrian having breakfast at Tom Groggin
Adrian at the top of the chairlift at Thredbo
On the walk back down at Thredbo
A chap came up there and admired it, he'd got a very old coaster and was thrilled to bits with it and was on his way to Tasmania from Queensland.
We then headed out of the National Park on a well surfaced tarmac road. We'd come through some sections earlier today that were unsurfaced. They made them out to be very winding and steep and difficult but they were nothing compared to the hills that we were used to in England or Europe. So it wasn't a problem to us and the chap who was on his way to Tasmania reckoned our exchange idea, for motorhomes was 'fair dinkum'.. We stopped late to have lunch, the reason being that our day pass for the park ran out at 2.15, and we were getting close to that time so didn't want to stop for lunch. Once we got out of the park, it was difficult to find anywhere to stop, but eventually we came to Jindabyne Lake and parked in a lovely spot.
We then headed out of the National Park on a well surfaced tarmac road. We'd come through some sections earlier today that were unsurfaced. They made them out to be very winding and steep and difficult but they were nothing compared to the hills that we were used to in England or Europe. So it wasn't a problem to us and the chap who was on his way to Tasmania reckoned our exchange idea, for motorhomes was 'fair dinkum'.. We stopped late to have lunch, the reason being that our day pass for the park ran out at 2.15, and we were getting close to that time so didn't want to stop for lunch. Once we got out of the park, it was difficult to find anywhere to stop, but eventually we came to Jindabyne Lake and parked in a lovely spot.
Adrian managed to fix the table just outside the door. He sat on the seat and I sat on the step with a cushion on it and we had lunch. Afterwards we had a swim in the lake that was very pleasant, and then we filled up with water.
We came to Kuma, I'd dozed a bit, and we saw there was a Woolworths - the other shops had closed because it was now 5.40. We went into Woolworths and bought more supplies, a couple of bottles of wine, and then Adrian went to the petrol station and got some diesel. Soon after this, we pulled into a rest area beside the Murrumbidgee River which seemed another good place for the night.
We came to Kuma, I'd dozed a bit, and we saw there was a Woolworths - the other shops had closed because it was now 5.40. We went into Woolworths and bought more supplies, a couple of bottles of wine, and then Adrian went to the petrol station and got some diesel. Soon after this, we pulled into a rest area beside the Murrumbidgee River which seemed another good place for the night.
The sky was lovely, and after supper there was a full moon.
[N.B the river seemed actually to be the Numeralla River although they are very close at that point]
[N.B the river seemed actually to be the Numeralla River although they are very close at that point]
Lunch stop at Jindabyne Lake
Our Overnight spot by the Numerella River (streetview 2010)
Adrian cooking supper under the shelter
Thursday 12th February 147 km
We awoke to a beautiful morning. We started the day with an early morning swim in the Murrumbidgee River [Numeralla River], which was very deep at this point. We had to ease ourselves into it - I swam right across and back and that was very pleasant followed by shower and then breakfast - it was already hot. We packed up to leave at 10 o'clock.
Adrian had phoned Nicholas Thomas at Canberra University, but he seemed a very busy man and asked us to write to him [We had come across his work while on Ua Pou, as he had transcribed some of Thomas Lawson’s letters which he’d found in Hawaii - many years later when we were in Hawaii, we found those letters]. We set off northwards towards Canberra and pulled in after a few miles to ring Landbase to ask them to forward our post to Ali's address and to look at maps of Canberra [There were no emails in 1998, so all contact with friends and family was either by phone or post. Landbase was a small company set up by a lady, to whom people wanting to contact us sent their post and who we would contact occasionally and get her to send all our post to a specific Post Restante or address. It worked quite well, but it meant that we had to guess where we might be in a week or more’s time]. We continued on into Canberra and made our way with the aid of a map and with some difficulty to the new tourist information block which seemed a bit useless. We located a campsite which seemed reasonably priced. We then headed for that. It cost about £5 a night with electricity and a swimming pool. It was a rather dry and barren site with hills beyond. It was very hot so we put on the air conditioning and sat inside for the first time to have our lunch.
We then did a tour of various camping shops, thinking we might get some outdoor tables and chairs, but this proved fruitless. This is in an area called Fyshwick. We did find a printer and got some photocopying done which we were pleased about. Ironically this place was right opposite camp sites that we had decided not to go to. We drove back into Canberra and parked near the Captain Cook Memorial, and we had a look at a globe with his voyages on it. This was in a park beside the water.
We awoke to a beautiful morning. We started the day with an early morning swim in the Murrumbidgee River [Numeralla River], which was very deep at this point. We had to ease ourselves into it - I swam right across and back and that was very pleasant followed by shower and then breakfast - it was already hot. We packed up to leave at 10 o'clock.
Adrian had phoned Nicholas Thomas at Canberra University, but he seemed a very busy man and asked us to write to him [We had come across his work while on Ua Pou, as he had transcribed some of Thomas Lawson’s letters which he’d found in Hawaii - many years later when we were in Hawaii, we found those letters]. We set off northwards towards Canberra and pulled in after a few miles to ring Landbase to ask them to forward our post to Ali's address and to look at maps of Canberra [There were no emails in 1998, so all contact with friends and family was either by phone or post. Landbase was a small company set up by a lady, to whom people wanting to contact us sent their post and who we would contact occasionally and get her to send all our post to a specific Post Restante or address. It worked quite well, but it meant that we had to guess where we might be in a week or more’s time]. We continued on into Canberra and made our way with the aid of a map and with some difficulty to the new tourist information block which seemed a bit useless. We located a campsite which seemed reasonably priced. We then headed for that. It cost about £5 a night with electricity and a swimming pool. It was a rather dry and barren site with hills beyond. It was very hot so we put on the air conditioning and sat inside for the first time to have our lunch.
We then did a tour of various camping shops, thinking we might get some outdoor tables and chairs, but this proved fruitless. This is in an area called Fyshwick. We did find a printer and got some photocopying done which we were pleased about. Ironically this place was right opposite camp sites that we had decided not to go to. We drove back into Canberra and parked near the Captain Cook Memorial, and we had a look at a globe with his voyages on it. This was in a park beside the water.
We then went in search of Fletchers to take my film in to be developed. When we finally located it we found the film wouldn't be done till next Wednesday, in a matt finish - that was no good. The very nice chap directed us to another place - they also couldn't do it either. They directed us to another one where a Sharon type lady said it would be ready at 11.45 tomorrow.
We asked her the location of the post office, which was very close by, but the Sharon girl said it would be closed - it closes at 5 o'clock. It was now 5.25. We went across there to check it out, and low and behold the doors were open, so with great luck we were able to send off postcards and cards to England. We then walked back to the coaster, it was extremely hot, and the temperature inside the van was 100°F - not much less outside and then we headed back out to the campsite. It was a beautiful evening and we had a swim in the pool and then cooked a meal. There was a beautiful sky again and lots of birds around. Later we rang Ali.
We asked her the location of the post office, which was very close by, but the Sharon girl said it would be closed - it closes at 5 o'clock. It was now 5.25. We went across there to check it out, and low and behold the doors were open, so with great luck we were able to send off postcards and cards to England. We then walked back to the coaster, it was extremely hot, and the temperature inside the van was 100°F - not much less outside and then we headed back out to the campsite. It was a beautiful evening and we had a swim in the pool and then cooked a meal. There was a beautiful sky again and lots of birds around. Later we rang Ali.
Rosie by the Captain Cook Memorial, Canberra
Sunset at the campsite at Fyshwick, Canberra
Friday 13th February 111 km
We started the day with a swim in the pool which was a good size, a lovely swim after breakfast, and then a shower and hairwash and left not long before 10.30 on a lovely day.
We spent the morning fruitlessly visiting various caravan suppliers for the odd bits and pieces we wanted. The first one we went to, which was Queanbeyan and quite a way out, a sort of suburb now of Canberra, had no accessories at all. The second had next to nothing. The third did have some. This was back at Fyshwick, just where we were yesterday. We bought a couple of items there, but we also passed a large hardware store rather like a big B&Q and we spent an hour or more looking around the vast store, but we did end up with quite a few of the bits and pieces that we wanted, but still no cheap picnic table and chairs so that we can sit outside.
After this, we drove back towards Canberra into one of the many areas, called Canberra Nature Park and drove up Red Hill to the lookout where we could look down over Canberra. We sat outside on the side of the hill, on the cushions that make up to little sub stools behind the seat at the front and looked down to the Captain Cook jet which shoots right up high into the air. It had just started up at two o'clock and we left there 2.15.
We started the day with a swim in the pool which was a good size, a lovely swim after breakfast, and then a shower and hairwash and left not long before 10.30 on a lovely day.
We spent the morning fruitlessly visiting various caravan suppliers for the odd bits and pieces we wanted. The first one we went to, which was Queanbeyan and quite a way out, a sort of suburb now of Canberra, had no accessories at all. The second had next to nothing. The third did have some. This was back at Fyshwick, just where we were yesterday. We bought a couple of items there, but we also passed a large hardware store rather like a big B&Q and we spent an hour or more looking around the vast store, but we did end up with quite a few of the bits and pieces that we wanted, but still no cheap picnic table and chairs so that we can sit outside.
After this, we drove back towards Canberra into one of the many areas, called Canberra Nature Park and drove up Red Hill to the lookout where we could look down over Canberra. We sat outside on the side of the hill, on the cushions that make up to little sub stools behind the seat at the front and looked down to the Captain Cook jet which shoots right up high into the air. It had just started up at two o'clock and we left there 2.15.
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Looking down over Canberra to the Captain Cook Jet from Red Hill (streetview 2023)
We drove back so that I could go and collect the photographs. We managed that, Adrian had to drive around while I went into the place and collected them and Tracy served me this time, as opposed to Sharon who served me last night. But the good thing was the pictures look good.
We then headed for the Australian War Memorial and Anzac Parade, in a vast area with great wide roads and various memorials alongside. We looked at one or two including the Vietnam Memorial, and then went into the large building of the Australian War Memorial, which I found a bit hard to take as there was just so much of it and to me, I could only think of the futility of war.
We then headed for the Australian War Memorial and Anzac Parade, in a vast area with great wide roads and various memorials alongside. We looked at one or two including the Vietnam Memorial, and then went into the large building of the Australian War Memorial, which I found a bit hard to take as there was just so much of it and to me, I could only think of the futility of war.
We left there about 4.45 and drove to Black Mountain where the Botanic Gardens were but it was 4.50 when we got there and the gardens appeared to be closed - we knew they closed at 5 o'clock. We drove up to the top of Black Mountain where there's a radar tower. You couldn't see a great deal from the mountain although it was pretty high, but views as we went up there. We headed then for a forest campsite in the south of Canberra. We stopped on the way in a residential area where we saw a sign saying 'shop'. It was a tiny little shop run by a Chinese lady. Very little in there but we got some cold beer and some wine which we hadn't got and decided it would be bacon and omelette tonight to eat. She was very chatty to us.
We could not locate this forest campsite at all, so we then trailed all the way back through Canberra and back out to the campsite at Fyshwick that we stayed at last night, on the outskirts of the city. We then headed for the swimming pool and had a quick swim and then set about fixing one or two of the things that we'd bought today, notably a curtain to hang in the doorway, one of those stripy things that's meant to deter flies and insects from coming in – it sways around in the breeze and various little hooks and bits and pieces to make life easier.
We could not locate this forest campsite at all, so we then trailed all the way back through Canberra and back out to the campsite at Fyshwick that we stayed at last night, on the outskirts of the city. We then headed for the swimming pool and had a quick swim and then set about fixing one or two of the things that we'd bought today, notably a curtain to hang in the doorway, one of those stripy things that's meant to deter flies and insects from coming in – it sways around in the breeze and various little hooks and bits and pieces to make life easier.
The Vietnam War Memorial and the Australian War Memorial looking down to the Parliament Buildings
 "Route Map through the Snowy Mountains")
 "Route Map around Canberra")
 "Route Map Canberra to Gerroa")
Saturday 14th February 143 km
Valentine's Day. We exchanged our cards. We found the milk wasn't very nice, it had gone off, despite us fighting with this fridge which rarely seems to be cold. Therefore we had a boiled egg and toast for breakfast, me sitting on the step of the van and Adrian on the seat outside with our black cushions, the lack of not having an outside table and no table nearby on the site. After breakfast we went for a refreshing swim in the pool, which had quite a few people in this morning and then a shower and ready to leave about 10.15.
We had phoned Alma Armstrong (Tibby) [a family friend of the Cape’s wo lived opposite Rosie in Hillingdon, Uxbridge], yesterday, who lived in Canberra and said that we could visit her this morning. We then headed for Giralang and went to visit her, had a cup of tea and coffee, and spent an hour or so chatting.
Valentine's Day. We exchanged our cards. We found the milk wasn't very nice, it had gone off, despite us fighting with this fridge which rarely seems to be cold. Therefore we had a boiled egg and toast for breakfast, me sitting on the step of the van and Adrian on the seat outside with our black cushions, the lack of not having an outside table and no table nearby on the site. After breakfast we went for a refreshing swim in the pool, which had quite a few people in this morning and then a shower and ready to leave about 10.15.
We had phoned Alma Armstrong (Tibby) [a family friend of the Cape’s wo lived opposite Rosie in Hillingdon, Uxbridge], yesterday, who lived in Canberra and said that we could visit her this morning. We then headed for Giralang and went to visit her, had a cup of tea and coffee, and spent an hour or so chatting.
 and RosieC in Canberra, ACT, Australia.jpg)
Rosie with 'Tibby' who was her neighbour in Hillingdon
We left middayish and headed for a part of Canberra where there was a big shopping mall at Belconnen and then spent the next few hours in there, looking first round a huge place called Kmart and buying some different file paper and various things to get ourselves sorted as far as diaries and writing goes and we had a sandwich in there too. We bought a photo album in the shop outside. We then went to Woolworths and got some food, some drink, Adrian bought some trainers, we got various bits and bobs, and left at 3.20.
We set off on the Federal Highway and about 4.45 we stopped at a rest area beside Lake George, which seems to be empty of water, for Adrian to have a rest. The road was being rebuilt at this point so it was a bit hard to locate the rest area which was a remembrance rest area. To start with, we noticed that the container of cleaning fluid had spilt and was dripping out of the cupboard under the sink. We cleared that up and Adrian had a snooze. I went for a wander around. I’d just returned to the van when two naked men came running up and presumably went to their car and put on a pair of shorts but then one promptly came over, right beside us stripped off again and decided to wash himself! [In retrospect we should have stopped there, but after this incident Rosie said no!]
Having left this rest area we then travelled on towards Sydney. We looked in at every rest area we passed after this but none of them were as good as the one where the two naked men were running around. We tried various things, including going across the carriageway and trying one on the other side. We turned off to Goulburn Historic Town which amused us as historic towns aren't very old at all and we drove through there back again onto the highway - it was on the Hume Highway.
We set off on the Federal Highway and about 4.45 we stopped at a rest area beside Lake George, which seems to be empty of water, for Adrian to have a rest. The road was being rebuilt at this point so it was a bit hard to locate the rest area which was a remembrance rest area. To start with, we noticed that the container of cleaning fluid had spilt and was dripping out of the cupboard under the sink. We cleared that up and Adrian had a snooze. I went for a wander around. I’d just returned to the van when two naked men came running up and presumably went to their car and put on a pair of shorts but then one promptly came over, right beside us stripped off again and decided to wash himself! [In retrospect we should have stopped there, but after this incident Rosie said no!]
Having left this rest area we then travelled on towards Sydney. We looked in at every rest area we passed after this but none of them were as good as the one where the two naked men were running around. We tried various things, including going across the carriageway and trying one on the other side. We turned off to Goulburn Historic Town which amused us as historic towns aren't very old at all and we drove through there back again onto the highway - it was on the Hume Highway.
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The 'historic' town of Goulburn (streetview 2009}
Still no luck with finding anywhere suitable to stop that was away from the road enough to not hear the traffic at night, and then we came to a sign saying tourist route. So we followed that and then after only a few kilometres, we came to a little place which was set up as a picnic area, with a picnic table and said it was created by the Lions Club and there we stopped. It was idyllic, trees all around us, and a railway went by on a viaduct. We had to go under this low bridge and back under it to get to the rest area, There were no warnings - in Australia with low bridges you just suddenly come across them!. What seemed absolutely idyllic for our Valentine's meal with the prawns we had bought, turned not so nice as the evening wore on. Out came mosquitoes as we sat to eat our meal - we'd cooked of fresh corn on the cob and then the prawns, which were fresh prawns in their skins, so took a long time. By then the mosquitoes were so prolific that we had to get back into the van, where the temperature was extremely hot - it was in the 90’s F.
Adrian then concocted putting the netting up, we’d bought, at one of the windows to try and give us a bit of air because of the intense heat. At that point a car came in and it was a policeman. We were both sitting there in our pants as it was so hot and he said he was just checking us out making sure everything was okay. We had quite a chat to him told him what we were doing, and off he went. The place was called Barbers Creek and the difference between paradise and purgatory is quite slim, as we tried to finish our meal, the mosquitoes were just terrible. They’d driven us inside and insane.
The 'quiet' railway bridge we were beside - picnic site mid-left (streetview 2008)
Us celebrating Valentines Day - before the mossies came out!
Sunday 15th February 117 km
A very hot night with three trains going past in the night, very loudly and sounded as though they were going through the middle of the van. Because we had no netted windows Adrian had tried to stick some netting up around one of the windows, which was difficult, but at least stopped 10,000 mosquitoes coming in. We left and soon noticed that the countryside looked much greener, with the trees looking more English, although there were a lot of fir trees and it was prettier than we'd been seeing further south.
We stopped at Bundanoon and realised that we were in a sort of tourist area on the edge of Morton National Park. So we took a road up into the National Park and drove around a bit and then went for a walk to something called the Fairy Bower. This was a very steep walk down to an area of waterfalls and streams - quite a hairy path I thought.
A very hot night with three trains going past in the night, very loudly and sounded as though they were going through the middle of the van. Because we had no netted windows Adrian had tried to stick some netting up around one of the windows, which was difficult, but at least stopped 10,000 mosquitoes coming in. We left and soon noticed that the countryside looked much greener, with the trees looking more English, although there were a lot of fir trees and it was prettier than we'd been seeing further south.
We stopped at Bundanoon and realised that we were in a sort of tourist area on the edge of Morton National Park. So we took a road up into the National Park and drove around a bit and then went for a walk to something called the Fairy Bower. This was a very steep walk down to an area of waterfalls and streams - quite a hairy path I thought.
We'd like to have made it into a circular walk, and we carried on to the next bit, which was meant to be very easy, but we didn't find it that easy. We decided to return the way we'd come, as the ongoing bit of a walk, said it was very steep, and the one we'd come down was just called steep and that was steep enough. In fact we diverted around a different way which was a pleasant walk through the forest and back to the van and then we drove on to the picnic spot. We left Morton National Park picnic area at 2.20.
We drove past a place called Exeter to Moss Vale - we hadn't intended initially going there but that's where the road took us. And then we came back to Fitzroy Falls and stopped at the visitor centre and walked on a boardwalk to another dramatic outlook in a similar looking canyon to the one Bundanoon, hanging over nothing, looking at the falls there. We came back to the visitor centre by which time the clouds had come up and there were some rumbles of thunder and I thought that a storm might be brewing. There had been pretty heavy rain and wet roads on the way here, and all very green. We headed down a very winding road to Kangaroo Valley and from then on we took a road to Berry, which had some very nice old buildings.
We drove past a place called Exeter to Moss Vale - we hadn't intended initially going there but that's where the road took us. And then we came back to Fitzroy Falls and stopped at the visitor centre and walked on a boardwalk to another dramatic outlook in a similar looking canyon to the one Bundanoon, hanging over nothing, looking at the falls there. We came back to the visitor centre by which time the clouds had come up and there were some rumbles of thunder and I thought that a storm might be brewing. There had been pretty heavy rain and wet roads on the way here, and all very green. We headed down a very winding road to Kangaroo Valley and from then on we took a road to Berry, which had some very nice old buildings.
Fairy Bower Waterfall
The scenery was quite superb and the sky dark in the distance, but the storm we envisaged didn't come. We had looked down and seen the sea from high up, and now we came down to it at Seven Mile Beach. It was obviously a place where a lot of surfers went - they were just getting changed back. We went on to the beach, blowing a howling gale and it felt quite cool to us. We walked across and paddled our first paddle in the Australian sea this time and when we were walking down to the beach, we saw a very pretty little blue fairy wren. We drove along a bit to a place called Gerroa where a river came out to the sea. There was a lot of not very attractive caravan sites and lots of houses packed into a small area. The sea part of it was very attractive. Cars were very noisy.
We parked along beside where the river comes out to the sea. We went for a walk onto the humpy beach where big waves were coming in. We came back and cooked supper of fish. Just as we were going to eat it on the table nearby, a couple came and sat there, but they did move off and we did eat there in the end.
We parked along beside where the river comes out to the sea. We went for a walk onto the humpy beach where big waves were coming in. We came back and cooked supper of fish. Just as we were going to eat it on the table nearby, a couple came and sat there, but they did move off and we did eat there in the end.
Kangaroo Valley
Rosie by the 'humpy bumpy' beach at Gerroa
 beside the sea at Gerroa, NSW, Australia.jpg)
Rosie having supper at our overnighter at Gerroa
A pelican came to see us
It was all lovely except the mossies did come in later in the evening. We had an organisation of a lot of our paperwork stuff and threw out lots of leaflets that we aren't going to use and then went to bed. We chased around a few mossies before we finally settled, but then had a wonderful sleep.
Monday 16th February 176 km
A slightly cooler morning with a breeze, but a lovely morning. We had breakfast at our table with this lovely view and Adrian took a photograph of a pelican like bird. We left at nine o'clock. We headed north towards Wollongong and Sydney noticing how pretty and green everywhere was, looking down to the sea on our right hand side and playing 'moods of love' and enjoying the music.
We were travelling on the freeway and we went through the Royal National Park a large hilly area of trees, and which I remember flying over when we came into Sydney before. We had passed or sighted one or two forest fires before, but we now went through an extensive area of burnt forest, right until we got into Liverpool, part of Sydney. We were heading for a district past Fairfield called Elanora where the person who had worked on this coaster, had a workshop . We did many tours around the area before we located it. There was a railway line running right through the middle of this area and very few roads crossing the railway line and when we finally stopped and asked somebody, we found, as we had imagined, it was on the opposite side of the railway line and we had been very close to the place at one point.
We located the workshop and talked to the chap who was a short sharp person. We chatted to two other chaps there about both the fridge and the leaking tap. It would appear that the vents on the outside of the van are stopping the fridge from cooling and so they changed them a bit. We did one or two useful things. Another chap came up and chatted to us while we were waiting, someone who had also got a motorhome. We then went on and chatted to somebody else who worked with fridges who seemed to say ‘no way it’s too hot’, but it did work a little better now. All of them seemed to say that the heat at the moment and the humidity were extra bad. Having solved this problem we were suffering from the heat - Adrian had been dripping with sweat when we'd arrived there and now it was raining.
We located a place nearby on the edge of the Botanic Gardens and found a sheltered place from the rain, wind and sun. A whirlwind had got up and it was quite windy but still very warm, but it soon stopped raining and we had lunch which we enjoyed apart from again being plagued by mosquitoes.
We left this place at 2 o'clock, the temperature was in the 90’sF. We now made our way across Sydney, across the Sydney Harbour Bridge eventually and after a little bit of trouble through Mosman and to Balmoral Beach and Ali's house [Ali was Adrian's Uncle by marriage]. Ali was in the back garden with Hilde [Ali's siter in law] and a friend called Margaret who was staying until tomorrow. We sat out in what they call the 'sit-out', chatting for a while.
A slightly cooler morning with a breeze, but a lovely morning. We had breakfast at our table with this lovely view and Adrian took a photograph of a pelican like bird. We left at nine o'clock. We headed north towards Wollongong and Sydney noticing how pretty and green everywhere was, looking down to the sea on our right hand side and playing 'moods of love' and enjoying the music.
We were travelling on the freeway and we went through the Royal National Park a large hilly area of trees, and which I remember flying over when we came into Sydney before. We had passed or sighted one or two forest fires before, but we now went through an extensive area of burnt forest, right until we got into Liverpool, part of Sydney. We were heading for a district past Fairfield called Elanora where the person who had worked on this coaster, had a workshop . We did many tours around the area before we located it. There was a railway line running right through the middle of this area and very few roads crossing the railway line and when we finally stopped and asked somebody, we found, as we had imagined, it was on the opposite side of the railway line and we had been very close to the place at one point.
We located the workshop and talked to the chap who was a short sharp person. We chatted to two other chaps there about both the fridge and the leaking tap. It would appear that the vents on the outside of the van are stopping the fridge from cooling and so they changed them a bit. We did one or two useful things. Another chap came up and chatted to us while we were waiting, someone who had also got a motorhome. We then went on and chatted to somebody else who worked with fridges who seemed to say ‘no way it’s too hot’, but it did work a little better now. All of them seemed to say that the heat at the moment and the humidity were extra bad. Having solved this problem we were suffering from the heat - Adrian had been dripping with sweat when we'd arrived there and now it was raining.
We located a place nearby on the edge of the Botanic Gardens and found a sheltered place from the rain, wind and sun. A whirlwind had got up and it was quite windy but still very warm, but it soon stopped raining and we had lunch which we enjoyed apart from again being plagued by mosquitoes.
We left this place at 2 o'clock, the temperature was in the 90’sF. We now made our way across Sydney, across the Sydney Harbour Bridge eventually and after a little bit of trouble through Mosman and to Balmoral Beach and Ali's house [Ali was Adrian's Uncle by marriage]. Ali was in the back garden with Hilde [Ali's siter in law] and a friend called Margaret who was staying until tomorrow. We sat out in what they call the 'sit-out', chatting for a while.
Hilde, Ali and Adrian in the 'sit-out' at 7 Esther Rd, Mosman
Ali took Hilde back and later on we talked to Shirley [Adrian's cousin] on the phone. We went and got fish and chips for supper and we retired to the van just before 10 o'clock.
Albury to Sydney
 "Route Map Gerroa to Sydney")
The entrance to Woodhaven at Lankeys Creek (streetview 2024)
We had coffee in the pottery shop and then went on into the tourist information and got one or two things. We went on into Albury itself and collected our photos which we came back and looked at after lunch.
Route to Beechworth and back
 "Route Map Albury to Corryong")