Sunday 12th April - Easter Sunday 156 km
A beautiful situation to be in for Easter Sunday and we did see the sun peeping above the clouds. A day which was sort of sunny and cloudy with a cool breeze and not a particularly good forecast for this part of Australia. It's hot up in the north, but we were rather sobered to hear that England has had devastating floods, the worst for 50 years, so it must be better here than that. We had rung Ali last night having heard that Sydney also had had floods, but a warmer temperature there - about 25°C. We exchanged our eggs, mine was a pretty little sugar egg an Adrian's a big letter A and some little mint eggs that we bought when we went to the chocolate factory at Adelaide and we had a boiled egg for breakfast. We left at about 9.15 and there was a rainbow in the sky.
Our first stop was just around the corner where we took the road to Wreck Bay and had a very pleasant hour or so walk, firstly amongst the dramatic sand dunes in a desert like situation and then back to scrub around parts of the lake.
A beautiful situation to be in for Easter Sunday and we did see the sun peeping above the clouds. A day which was sort of sunny and cloudy with a cool breeze and not a particularly good forecast for this part of Australia. It's hot up in the north, but we were rather sobered to hear that England has had devastating floods, the worst for 50 years, so it must be better here than that. We had rung Ali last night having heard that Sydney also had had floods, but a warmer temperature there - about 25°C. We exchanged our eggs, mine was a pretty little sugar egg an Adrian's a big letter A and some little mint eggs that we bought when we went to the chocolate factory at Adelaide and we had a boiled egg for breakfast. We left at about 9.15 and there was a rainbow in the sky.
Our first stop was just around the corner where we took the road to Wreck Bay and had a very pleasant hour or so walk, firstly amongst the dramatic sand dunes in a desert like situation and then back to scrub around parts of the lake.
We were on the edge of Lincoln National Park and we saw a bird of prey possibly a sea eagle and a strange sort of shield bug. It only sprinkled a couple of raindrops on us on our walk but as we made our way back to Port Lincoln, and then across towards Coffin Bay, it sometimes rained very heavily. We stopped in a layby for elevenses at about 11.20, by which time it wasn't really raining.
At Coffin Bay, named after Sir Isaac Coffin, we came to a lookout and this looked out over wonderful vistas of peninsulas and sea, and we found that this was where a circular walk, the 'Oyster Walk', went from, down to Coffin Bay along the seashore and back. We went on this and we left at 12.00 and were back around about 1.00 and it hadn't taken as long as we thought . We saw a mass of seabirds down on the shore and all along the jetty, pelicans, cormorant type birds and the other thing on this walk was millions of ants and millions of millipedes. When we came back we spoke to a chap who had parked next to us and who had come out to Port Lincoln from Bristol 50 years ago, he still had a Bristol accent and looked like Tony's brother Peter. We then had our Easter lunch, salad and rolls, silverside and Easter eggs, looking out onto this rather South Devon type scenery and with very erratic weather - the chap said it was the first time it had rained for six months!We didn't actually have any rain on our walk a just few spots, with this pretty erratic sort of weather.
We drove down past Coffin Bay and a little bit further to Coffin Bay National Park, where there was a sandy road as opposed to the gravel road we were on, so we turned round and stopped in a parking area just before a sea. There was a sign there, warning, "Vehicles proceeding beyond this point may encounter hazardous conditions" [it was a little track leading straight into the sea!].
At Coffin Bay, named after Sir Isaac Coffin, we came to a lookout and this looked out over wonderful vistas of peninsulas and sea, and we found that this was where a circular walk, the 'Oyster Walk', went from, down to Coffin Bay along the seashore and back. We went on this and we left at 12.00 and were back around about 1.00 and it hadn't taken as long as we thought . We saw a mass of seabirds down on the shore and all along the jetty, pelicans, cormorant type birds and the other thing on this walk was millions of ants and millions of millipedes. When we came back we spoke to a chap who had parked next to us and who had come out to Port Lincoln from Bristol 50 years ago, he still had a Bristol accent and looked like Tony's brother Peter. We then had our Easter lunch, salad and rolls, silverside and Easter eggs, looking out onto this rather South Devon type scenery and with very erratic weather - the chap said it was the first time it had rained for six months!We didn't actually have any rain on our walk a just few spots, with this pretty erratic sort of weather.
We drove down past Coffin Bay and a little bit further to Coffin Bay National Park, where there was a sandy road as opposed to the gravel road we were on, so we turned round and stopped in a parking area just before a sea. There was a sign there, warning, "Vehicles proceeding beyond this point may encounter hazardous conditions" [it was a little track leading straight into the sea!].
On the sand dunes at Wreck Bay
We started now up the west coast of the Eyre Peninsula on a lot of long straight roads. We didn't go down to the sea along there, as most of the roads went a long way and were unsurfaced roads and that meant we'd have had to come a long way back again. We did stop at Cummings Monument lookout which was just a short distance to drive, but the weather closed in again at that point, it had been very variable. We could see the cliffs in either direction and we took a little walk, it was extremely windy and looked out to where Ospreys are meant to nest. We didn't see any Ospreys, but we did see a cormorant!
We carried on for a short distance and then we pulled in beside the road to a layby, south of Sheringa, not particularly beautiful, but not unattractive either and made this our stop for the night. Adrian turned the hot water on and we had a shower and I washed my hair. We had kangaroo steak for our Easter meal which Adrian cooked outside as it was quite mild although we could imagine it was windy out of the trees. We enjoyed our excellent meal with a bottle of bubbly and we had the sparklers that Adrian gave me for my birthday and I had not been able to use, because of the total fire ban. We had two of these and they were actually shaped like a star, so that was great fun. We then had an industrious evening getting up to date with the scrapbook and maps and Adrian doing some more Marquesan family history.
We carried on for a short distance and then we pulled in beside the road to a layby, south of Sheringa, not particularly beautiful, but not unattractive either and made this our stop for the night. Adrian turned the hot water on and we had a shower and I washed my hair. We had kangaroo steak for our Easter meal which Adrian cooked outside as it was quite mild although we could imagine it was windy out of the trees. We enjoyed our excellent meal with a bottle of bubbly and we had the sparklers that Adrian gave me for my birthday and I had not been able to use, because of the total fire ban. We had two of these and they were actually shaped like a star, so that was great fun. We then had an industrious evening getting up to date with the scrapbook and maps and Adrian doing some more Marquesan family history.
Rosie with her sparklers
Monday 13th April 215 km
Awoke to a mostly sunny day, which turned warm with a cool breeze.
Awoke to a mostly sunny day, which turned warm with a cool breeze.
We went through very arid and desolate country until we came to Elliston, which had wide, Waterloo Bay, with two points out to sea and a reef across the entrance to the bay making it very sheltered with lovely white sand. We didn't feel enticed to get out and walk around it though. It was 10 o'clock and we heard on the news of the severity of the storms in England.
Just outside Elliston we stopped to fill up with diesel and then just north of it we turned on to a tourist drive which seemed to end before it began. We stopped by the next little bay and had the last of our hot-cross buns and our tea and coffee sitting on the edge of the beach, which was rather strewn with seaweed but looking out to Flinders Island, reminding us of Lundy with rather rough seas around it. The sun was pleasantly warm and there was a lot of undergrowth, scrub and shrubs around here which seem to have burst into flower with the little bit of rain and with the odd little blue and yellow flowers popping up on the dead looking flower plants.
We turned off on a three kilometre sand road to Walkers Rocks. This was a nice, sandy bay, but we decided not to do anything else here, but just to view it and we returned to the main road. A bit further on we drove a few miles down to Venus Bay to a most amazing place with a wonderful large bay on one side and on the other side, rough waves and contrasting red cliffs. The vegetation was some low scrub, but it was very barren, Connemara came to mind, moonlike almost, just a rocky surface, but again a few of the plants had come into flower because of the recent rain. We went to a lookout called the Needle Eye lookout because of a hole in a rock and quite breathtaking.
Just outside Elliston we stopped to fill up with diesel and then just north of it we turned on to a tourist drive which seemed to end before it began. We stopped by the next little bay and had the last of our hot-cross buns and our tea and coffee sitting on the edge of the beach, which was rather strewn with seaweed but looking out to Flinders Island, reminding us of Lundy with rather rough seas around it. The sun was pleasantly warm and there was a lot of undergrowth, scrub and shrubs around here which seem to have burst into flower with the little bit of rain and with the odd little blue and yellow flowers popping up on the dead looking flower plants.
We turned off on a three kilometre sand road to Walkers Rocks. This was a nice, sandy bay, but we decided not to do anything else here, but just to view it and we returned to the main road. A bit further on we drove a few miles down to Venus Bay to a most amazing place with a wonderful large bay on one side and on the other side, rough waves and contrasting red cliffs. The vegetation was some low scrub, but it was very barren, Connemara came to mind, moonlike almost, just a rocky surface, but again a few of the plants had come into flower because of the recent rain. We went to a lookout called the Needle Eye lookout because of a hole in a rock and quite breathtaking.
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Our overnight layby south of Sheringa, Eyre Penninsula (streetview 2023)
It was quite windy at that point but we had quite a walk around. We chose for lunch a place on the other side, on the inner harbour. We still had sea waves coming in, but it was much calmer, aquamarine blue, the sun had come out and we sat outside with the table and chairs and in this sheltered spot we were in, it was really hot and we enjoyed the sun for a long time. We were surprised how many people came and parked and went off fishing or trying to surf, the sea wasn't good for surfing, but of course this was bank holiday Monday - there were about 3 cars.
We returned to the main road and after a few miles turned off on to an unmade up road looking for Murphy's Haystacks, but we didn't take the right road, the only map we had was so difficult to follow, and the distances of this unmade road were things like 48 kilometres, so we didn't want to get too lost. We did locate the Haystacks which were inselbergs of beautiful pink granite. In this rather barren landscape there were just these little blobbles, they reminded us of Remarkable Rocks on Kangaroo Island.
We returned to the main road and after a few miles turned off on to an unmade up road looking for Murphy's Haystacks, but we didn't take the right road, the only map we had was so difficult to follow, and the distances of this unmade road were things like 48 kilometres, so we didn't want to get too lost. We did locate the Haystacks which were inselbergs of beautiful pink granite. In this rather barren landscape there were just these little blobbles, they reminded us of Remarkable Rocks on Kangaroo Island.
THe Needle Eye rock with the Platybus above at Venus Bay
A couple of other people came which was a bit too much, even on bank holiday - the wind was quite strong but the sun was still shining.
We continued to the township of Streaky Bay on the edge of Streaky Bay itself which was a very large bay almost land enclosed and the next place on is called Smoky Bay, so I think the person liked bacon really. It said no camping in the town and there was a campsite right on the beach, but we didn't want a campsite, so we carried on past it towards a place called Cape Bauer which seemed fitting. The unmade up road seemed to go on forever and ever and we eventually stopped beside the water with low lying land all the way around this huge bay that were on. Blue sky and blue water but the wind still blowing. We had pancakes to eat for supper and afterwards Adrian was still doing Maquesan family history and I was reading Lonely Planet for Western Australia. We had an early night.
We continued to the township of Streaky Bay on the edge of Streaky Bay itself which was a very large bay almost land enclosed and the next place on is called Smoky Bay, so I think the person liked bacon really. It said no camping in the town and there was a campsite right on the beach, but we didn't want a campsite, so we carried on past it towards a place called Cape Bauer which seemed fitting. The unmade up road seemed to go on forever and ever and we eventually stopped beside the water with low lying land all the way around this huge bay that were on. Blue sky and blue water but the wind still blowing. We had pancakes to eat for supper and afterwards Adrian was still doing Maquesan family history and I was reading Lonely Planet for Western Australia. We had an early night.
At Murphy's haystacks
Tuesday 14th April 149 km
We had a fantastic sleep and woke at 7 o’clock with the sun just rising. We'd watched the bright full moon rise over the water last night, it was quite beautiful to watch and then this morning, the sun rising in a clear blue sky and pleasantly warm. We listened to the radio about disputes on the waterfronts with the Maritime Union and we realised that things were the same wherever.
We left at 8.45 and drove round the rest of Streaky Bay and when we were opposite Perlubie Beach we took a sand road inland to a place called Felchillo Oasis, which was a very interesting little place, it was a quandong farm which is a fruit which grows on a semi parasitic tree we'd first seen up in the Flinders. There was also a sort of Animal Park - called a fauna park here and it was run by a very energetic fellow, who looked rather like Eric Clapton and who was married to a Filipino and had four young daughters. He was a man who enjoyed chatting and had very strong views on things, but was also a very hard worker and he set this place up as an oasis. I suppose that was the right word, in a sandy desert which had no water, even the water in the borehole was too salty to use, no electricity - no nothing, but he built this place up. Another couple with two young children had arrived who also ran a small orchard further down the Eyre Peninsula and in fact, we spent the rest of the morning looking around this place and chatting. We ended up with tea and coffee and quandong jam on a biscuit and much discussion about aborigines and the way they're being treated in Australian society. This made us see the enormity of the problem and will need very delicate handling to come to terms which will please both the aboriginals and the white person.
We had a fantastic sleep and woke at 7 o’clock with the sun just rising. We'd watched the bright full moon rise over the water last night, it was quite beautiful to watch and then this morning, the sun rising in a clear blue sky and pleasantly warm. We listened to the radio about disputes on the waterfronts with the Maritime Union and we realised that things were the same wherever.
We left at 8.45 and drove round the rest of Streaky Bay and when we were opposite Perlubie Beach we took a sand road inland to a place called Felchillo Oasis, which was a very interesting little place, it was a quandong farm which is a fruit which grows on a semi parasitic tree we'd first seen up in the Flinders. There was also a sort of Animal Park - called a fauna park here and it was run by a very energetic fellow, who looked rather like Eric Clapton and who was married to a Filipino and had four young daughters. He was a man who enjoyed chatting and had very strong views on things, but was also a very hard worker and he set this place up as an oasis. I suppose that was the right word, in a sandy desert which had no water, even the water in the borehole was too salty to use, no electricity - no nothing, but he built this place up. Another couple with two young children had arrived who also ran a small orchard further down the Eyre Peninsula and in fact, we spent the rest of the morning looking around this place and chatting. We ended up with tea and coffee and quandong jam on a biscuit and much discussion about aborigines and the way they're being treated in Australian society. This made us see the enormity of the problem and will need very delicate handling to come to terms which will please both the aboriginals and the white person.
A very interesting morning was spent and it was gone midday by the time we left and set off back down 10 kilometre sandy road to the coast at Perlubie Beach. We went straight to the coast and had our lunch overlooking the water. The clear blue sky had come up to white clouds that was more an English sort of day than it had been previously. We stopped briefly at Smoky Bay, after streaky bacon, we never had smokey bacon, a lovely beach again, lots and lots of shells on the beach and pelicans in the water and Adrian filled the van up with water.
We went on then to Ceduna and here we'd hoped to do all sorts of things before we cross the Nullarbor Plain, well we were able to do some. We posted the postcards and we photocopied some things we wanted to, but no colour photocopier which we had wanted to do some photos. There was only one place doing films, and they were glossy and they wouldn't be ready till tomorrow, midday anyway. There was a laundrette, so that was great news and we got the washing done and dried and put that away. I went into a shop, that wasn't very brilliant but we did get some stores for the next few days, we went into the tourist information and picked up some leaflets and also bought a book on where we can free camp in Western Australia. We then went on to a bottle shop with the most Mr. Glum number three in it, with expensive wine - it was a drive in bottle shop so we couldn't really see the wine or the prices, but we did end up with some more wine which we needed.
We then drove to Thevenard, a sort of little township a bit further on that wasn't very exciting. Apparently from here you could see the island [Isles of St Peter] that Jonathan Swift wrote about, where Gulliver's Travels happened - that was in the 1600s and it was by a sighting from a ship at that time - an interesting piece of information, but all we could see was a huge grain store.
On our way back we saw a newly tarmacked boat park and we thought that this would be a suitable place to stop for the night, so we parked ourselves there and watched as the sun went down beyond the sea.
We went on then to Ceduna and here we'd hoped to do all sorts of things before we cross the Nullarbor Plain, well we were able to do some. We posted the postcards and we photocopied some things we wanted to, but no colour photocopier which we had wanted to do some photos. There was only one place doing films, and they were glossy and they wouldn't be ready till tomorrow, midday anyway. There was a laundrette, so that was great news and we got the washing done and dried and put that away. I went into a shop, that wasn't very brilliant but we did get some stores for the next few days, we went into the tourist information and picked up some leaflets and also bought a book on where we can free camp in Western Australia. We then went on to a bottle shop with the most Mr. Glum number three in it, with expensive wine - it was a drive in bottle shop so we couldn't really see the wine or the prices, but we did end up with some more wine which we needed.
We then drove to Thevenard, a sort of little township a bit further on that wasn't very exciting. Apparently from here you could see the island [Isles of St Peter] that Jonathan Swift wrote about, where Gulliver's Travels happened - that was in the 1600s and it was by a sighting from a ship at that time - an interesting piece of information, but all we could see was a huge grain store.
On our way back we saw a newly tarmacked boat park and we thought that this would be a suitable place to stop for the night, so we parked ourselves there and watched as the sun went down beyond the sea.
A wombat in the fauna park at Felchillo Oasis
Quandong tree and 'root hedge' at Felchillo Oasis
We phoned Landbase base for our post to be sent to the other side of the Nullarbor. We phoned Paul & Nicky and spoke to Nicky, Paul was at work and it was snowing in England. We tried Cathay Pacific but didn't get anywhere on that - lots and lots of engaged and then when we finally got through, we got about five minutes of recorded message – so he rang off. So we then set to preparing our meal, and afterwards I wrote to the Tanners.
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Our overnighter at the boat Park at Thevenard
Wednesday 15th April 390 km
It was clear blue sky when we awoke and fishermen were already coming down to the Thevenard boat park and we left at 8.15. Just coming back in to Ceduna we found some toilets to empty the loo and then I wrote to send off the present to Val for her birthday and the Marquesas tape to England. We then went around to the post office where I posted this and some other letters so we finally left just after 9.30.
There were some galahs flying above as we headed west. We set off on our trip across the Nullarbor and after 70 kilometres or so we went through the very small so called township of Penong and we continued for a while and stopped for tea and coffee, and very nice pastries bought in the shop yesterday, in a layby where there were rather a lot of flies but otherwise pleasantly warm and we changed into our shorts.
We continued on our way and stopped briefly at the Yalata Roadhouse and looked at the aboriginal items for sale in the shop - we didn't buy anything. We stopped a bit further on in a layby where it looked very pleasant with the bluey grey undergrowth, the green foliage of the trees, blue sky and sandy soil. We had a pleasant lunchtime there and it became very hot, flies were a bit of a nuisance.
It was clear blue sky when we awoke and fishermen were already coming down to the Thevenard boat park and we left at 8.15. Just coming back in to Ceduna we found some toilets to empty the loo and then I wrote to send off the present to Val for her birthday and the Marquesas tape to England. We then went around to the post office where I posted this and some other letters so we finally left just after 9.30.
There were some galahs flying above as we headed west. We set off on our trip across the Nullarbor and after 70 kilometres or so we went through the very small so called township of Penong and we continued for a while and stopped for tea and coffee, and very nice pastries bought in the shop yesterday, in a layby where there were rather a lot of flies but otherwise pleasantly warm and we changed into our shorts.
We continued on our way and stopped briefly at the Yalata Roadhouse and looked at the aboriginal items for sale in the shop - we didn't buy anything. We stopped a bit further on in a layby where it looked very pleasant with the bluey grey undergrowth, the green foliage of the trees, blue sky and sandy soil. We had a pleasant lunchtime there and it became very hot, flies were a bit of a nuisance.
We continued west, still listening to our recording of tape five, including Kangaroo Island, which made interesting listening. We were so pleased that we'd been doing these recordings to capture our feelings at the time.
We came to a sign which said Nullarbor Plain, eastern end of treeless plain. We stopped to photograph that and just then put in the REM tape which started playing "It's the end of the world", it seemed rather fitting - the time was 2.45.
We came to a sign which said Nullarbor Plain, eastern end of treeless plain. We stopped to photograph that and just then put in the REM tape which started playing "It's the end of the world", it seemed rather fitting - the time was 2.45.
Lunch on the Nullarbor Plain before it became treeless
We stopped at the Nullarbor Road House where Adrian filled the van up with expensive diesel and I had a shower and hair wash costing $1, but Adrian didn't because apparently the men's was closed. It was just a very basic motel and an even more basic campsite and just a sandy yard in the middle of nothing.
We turned off to the first look out over the sea, we drove a few hundred yards to this, on a made up track and when we got there, there was still a vehicle which built the road in 1976. We walked through low shrubs across to the cliff top, where although we knew what was going to happen, we came abruptly to the end of this cliff and there 300 feet below was the sea. You couldn't really see the sea at the base of the cliffs, as they sloped vaguely outwards and, along the top, it looked rather like a rock garden that had been planted along in front of us - I'm quite sure people hadn't planted things there. I was just glad I wasn't there with children as it was rather scary, windy and not a place to stay, but quite dramatic for all that with sheer cliffs, deep blue sea and pale blue sky. There we were, actually at the Nullarbor that we'd read so much about and of the pioneers doing this and arriving at the sea to find they were so high above it. At the second look out, we had a spectacular view up and down the shear cliffs of the Australian Bight and we took a photo and video here.
We turned off to the first look out over the sea, we drove a few hundred yards to this, on a made up track and when we got there, there was still a vehicle which built the road in 1976. We walked through low shrubs across to the cliff top, where although we knew what was going to happen, we came abruptly to the end of this cliff and there 300 feet below was the sea. You couldn't really see the sea at the base of the cliffs, as they sloped vaguely outwards and, along the top, it looked rather like a rock garden that had been planted along in front of us - I'm quite sure people hadn't planted things there. I was just glad I wasn't there with children as it was rather scary, windy and not a place to stay, but quite dramatic for all that with sheer cliffs, deep blue sea and pale blue sky. There we were, actually at the Nullarbor that we'd read so much about and of the pioneers doing this and arriving at the sea to find they were so high above it. At the second look out, we had a spectacular view up and down the shear cliffs of the Australian Bight and we took a photo and video here.
The signs say it all
The cliffs on the Nullarbor Plain
Sunset in the middle of nowhere at our night spot
Thursday 16th April 417 km
We had now been away for three months. No vehicles came in last night at all, one or two this morning, just came and went. We awoke to see the sun rising gloriously above this flat scrub and got ourselves organised to leave and had a minor disturbance when we realised that the gas was left on, so it smelt a bit gassy. We walked across to the clifftop and Adrian videod a little bit and we had a very strange sensation which I'd also noticed last night when I went to take a photograph of the sunset. It sounded as though there were people and music and as all there is around is the tiny bushes, it was impossible for anyone to be there. We realised this morning what it was, there were two signs warning of the danger of the cliffs and there were some holes in the signs and the wind was whistling through them, It certainly sounded as though there was a community of people nearby, which in this absolute bleakness there was absolutely no chance of anyone being anywhere - just one or two birds around.
We left at about 9.15 and stopped at the next look out, but you weren't able to see anything. We stopped at a couple more lookouts where the land the land was changing.
We had now been away for three months. No vehicles came in last night at all, one or two this morning, just came and went. We awoke to see the sun rising gloriously above this flat scrub and got ourselves organised to leave and had a minor disturbance when we realised that the gas was left on, so it smelt a bit gassy. We walked across to the clifftop and Adrian videod a little bit and we had a very strange sensation which I'd also noticed last night when I went to take a photograph of the sunset. It sounded as though there were people and music and as all there is around is the tiny bushes, it was impossible for anyone to be there. We realised this morning what it was, there were two signs warning of the danger of the cliffs and there were some holes in the signs and the wind was whistling through them, It certainly sounded as though there was a community of people nearby, which in this absolute bleakness there was absolutely no chance of anyone being anywhere - just one or two birds around.
We left at about 9.15 and stopped at the next look out, but you weren't able to see anything. We stopped at a couple more lookouts where the land the land was changing.
We could see the waves crashing at the base of these cliffs which were white limestone at the bottom and a different reddish coloured soil above that. I could imagine the terror that the men in the pioneering story that I read about them, crossing the Nullarbor exploring it all those years ago, finally getting to the end and just seeing the waves crashing at the bottom of these cliffs – it would have been quite terrifying. While we were there we met a couple of chaps on a motorbike, father and son it turned out, and they had been 8000 kilometres in 10 days to New South Wales – they were on their way back to Perth. Quite a way to go!
We stopped at the next lookout on the Nullabor, which was the middle of the five and we decided to stay there for the night, it was now 5.10. This lookout wasn't as good as the last one in the views up and down the cliffs weren't as obvious and you had to walk a short distance to get to them. This did mean that we were a little distance back from the edge of the cliff and as we were staying for the night there, was good as far as I was concerned. All there was there was a few plants at ground level, browny coloured soil, deep blue sea and the blue sky the whole way around. Adrian had a shower and later we took photos of a beautiful sunset.
We stopped at the next lookout on the Nullabor, which was the middle of the five and we decided to stay there for the night, it was now 5.10. This lookout wasn't as good as the last one in the views up and down the cliffs weren't as obvious and you had to walk a short distance to get to them. This did mean that we were a little distance back from the edge of the cliff and as we were staying for the night there, was good as far as I was concerned. All there was there was a few plants at ground level, browny coloured soil, deep blue sea and the blue sky the whole way around. Adrian had a shower and later we took photos of a beautiful sunset.
Then it began to slump and wasn't cliff like any more and went down towards the sea gradually . We soon came to the border between South Australia and Western Australia and we went through the greatest interrogation of quarantine that we'd experienced going through any customs anywhere, but all we lost was a lettuce - we knew we couldn't take any vegetables, but lettuce! We exchanged one of our boxes which apparently had been a banana box and were given a nice new box and apart from that everything was okay but the customs offical (a lady)did go through the whole van. She asked me in what state did you get the lettuce and I said it was in a pretty good state, then I realised she meant, State, meaning what State of Australia. I'm not sure she was amused, but I thought it was funny.
The cliffs are changing
We pulled into a layby adjacent to the middle customs point and had our tea and coffee and biscuit in the warm sunshine by now. There was the noise of the huge road trains waiting to be interrogated although they didn't seem to take long going through. The people in the caravan in front of us had to stop and cook their fruit salad and then they were allowed through.
We'd now gone back an hour and a half in time, at least that was Perth time, but local time was only 45 minutes different, but I don't think we will bother we'll just go along between one and the other. At Eucla we had a look at the Eyre Monument and we were on a slight hillock there, so we could look down to the road, stretching out that we'll be taking westwards and then down to the sea.
We'd now gone back an hour and a half in time, at least that was Perth time, but local time was only 45 minutes different, but I don't think we will bother we'll just go along between one and the other. At Eucla we had a look at the Eyre Monument and we were on a slight hillock there, so we could look down to the road, stretching out that we'll be taking westwards and then down to the sea.
At the Western Australian Border
We also looked at a Travellers Cross, built when the road was tarmacked in 1969. We then drove down the four kilometres on a sandy track to the Old Telegraph Station, and on the way there, three emus ran across the road in front of us. We viewed the Old Telegraph Station on the sand dunes but it was buried right up to the chimney's now, but quite a spectacular sight. However, a great downer was the large biting flies that kept landing on us all the while we were there, March flies apparently, and this is April, what were they doing there?
Adrian at the Eyre Monument
On the way back we filmed another sleepy lizard, like we'd seen in the Flinders, but this was our own. This was another name for it, as it was a shingle back or a stumpy tail and it was a type of skink. This was on the road just after telegraph station We saw two more stumpy tails just after this and then rejoined the main road westward. I should mention that when crossing the Nullarbor, all vehicles wave to each other. There are perhaps more vehicles than we might have imagined and more cars and caravans but then we are in week following Easter. There are still few enough vehicles for everyone to recognise everyone else. We stopped at Mundrabilla for diesel which was much cheaper than the last place and then about 10 kilometres further on for lunch. We did take a bit of video here and afterwards Adrian had a rest. Time passed very quickly, we were listening to a story on cassette that Val had given me of Cari Loder, who was multiple sclerosis sufferer, and who inadvertently came across a remedy for multiple sclerosis. It was very listenable to and entertaining and certainly filled in the day [sadly, it was later shown to have little effect on most people and she, when it finally had no effect on her either, and she could no longer cope with the pain, she committed suicide in 2009].
Not long after finishing listening to that, we passed a person who was roller blading across the Nullarbor and we stopped to photograph and film him.
Not long after finishing listening to that, we passed a person who was roller blading across the Nullarbor and we stopped to photograph and film him.
Adrian at the Eucla Telegraph Station buried in sand
We passed the Roadhouse of Cocklebiddy and now the land became really Nullarbor looking, just flat barren and dried up grass with just a few odd trees, most of which were dead. We reached Caiguna and filled up with some very expensive diesel and soon after there was a sign saying 90 miles straight, Australia's longest straight road 146.6 kilometres.
Whatever one does there is always somebody doing something dafter
A few kilometres further on at Caiguna Blowhole we made our stop. It was about 4.45 on our new time, which would have been 6.15 before. It was pretty Nullarborish all around, windy and lots of different blues in the sky and a pretty desolate sort of landscape but quite a few trees many dead, just where we are. We went across to the blowhole which made a whistling sound but wasn't very impressive. We did some more sorting of cuttings later.
The start of the 90 mile straight
A few trees at our overnight stop in the middle of the Nullarbor Plain
Friday 17th April 417 km
Well we can make it rain anywhere, it's not supposed to rain on the Nullarbor Plain but we had some light rain in the night and awoke to rain and so my wanting to take the sunrise as there hadn't been a sunset last night, didn't happen. I went to light the gas at about six o'clock in the morning, but remembered the time had changed, so that was just getting light, the matches wouldn't light for a start, but it was obviously damp and then found the gas had run out. That meant Adrian had to go out in the rain to change over the gas bottle. We then got ourselves organised to getting up and found that it was raining quite a bit over Western Australia and therefore across the Nullarbor.
Well we can make it rain anywhere, it's not supposed to rain on the Nullarbor Plain but we had some light rain in the night and awoke to rain and so my wanting to take the sunrise as there hadn't been a sunset last night, didn't happen. I went to light the gas at about six o'clock in the morning, but remembered the time had changed, so that was just getting light, the matches wouldn't light for a start, but it was obviously damp and then found the gas had run out. That meant Adrian had to go out in the rain to change over the gas bottle. We then got ourselves organised to getting up and found that it was raining quite a bit over Western Australia and therefore across the Nullarbor.
It had been raining hard all morning and we'd been driving for about two hours listening to a tape of Hannah Hauxwell in the north country of England which passed the time well, although I was surprisingly finding the contrast of the vegetation very interesting and parts of it strangely beautiful in its flatness and remoteness.
We'd done the 90 mile straight and then turned a bend.
We'd done the 90 mile straight and then turned a bend.
We left and went back on the Eyre Highway and then passed the Road House at Balladonia where we thought of Tom as we thought that this was where he waited a day for a lift, going in the opposite direction.
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The Caiguna Blowhole was in the trees in the distance - just a few trees in the middle of the plain (Streetview 2023)
Straight Road!
There was very little to look out for, according to the Lonely Planet, they did mention a stone wall which we didn't see and some rocks which we also didn't see and that was all of interest in several hundred miles to look out for. That in its own way was interesting. We stopped for coffee in a rather neat and civilised looking, large parking area and just as we were ready to go a couple with a caravan drew in, going in the opposite direction. He was John Coxhead mark two [a person on our Epilepsy walks, who thought he knew everything!] and we just might see them on our travels as they're going the other way round or hopefully we might not. We finished listening to the Hannah Hauxwell tapes which mentioned lots of names familiar to us, such as Metcalf and Lawson in Yorkshire. We negotiated quite a long stretch of road works which weren’t too difficult and we stopped for lunch in another rather civilised looking pulloff with lots of space and overlooking a huge area of red soil, contrasting greatly with the different greens of the trees and the unfortunately grey sky. Due to not having been able to buy any fresh rolls or bread we had the rest of the bread toasted with soup and then cheese, which made a very nice lunch.
The end of 90 miles
After lunch I had a short drive and it wasn't long before we got to Norseman arriving at about 2.15 new time [Rosie doesn't actually say that we had therefore crossed the Nullarbor Plain!]. At Norseman we first located the petrol station and got diesel - cheaply and filled the water tank with water and emptied the loo. I went across to the post office and we collected our post which we quickly read through - letters from Renee, Tom - with a photo of him at Levisham Station, Rosemary Bateman and from Lyn and John and a card from Paul and Nicky. We then went to tourist information, picked up one or two leaflets and then went to a supermarket and did a bit of shopping, by which time it was just about 4 o'clock.
We turned north from the Norseman towards Kalgoorlie and we travelled for about ¾ hour and turned off into a very large parking area. The Western Australia parking spaces don't look much from the front, but they go back a long way - the ones we'd seen anyway, so we parked ourselves well into the forest and that's where we spent the night. After supper we did a bit more sorting of leaflets etc.
We turned north from the Norseman towards Kalgoorlie and we travelled for about ¾ hour and turned off into a very large parking area. The Western Australia parking spaces don't look much from the front, but they go back a long way - the ones we'd seen anyway, so we parked ourselves well into the forest and that's where we spent the night. After supper we did a bit more sorting of leaflets etc.
The Nullarbor started to change towards Norseman
Saturday 18th April 258 km
Awoke quite early about 5.30 which would have been 7.00 and it was still dark, the reason being it was very misty and it stayed that way for a while and didn't really entice us to get up, although it was attractive in its mistiness, but it would have been nice to see some sun. We left at 7.15 and headed north, there were a large number of road trains on this route. We headed for Kalgoorlie - Boulder, but the fog didn't show any signs of lifting. Every now and again we'd go into a little reprieve where we could suddenly see but then we went back into rather thick fog again.
At Widgiemooltha we did a little tour of the deserted town and at Kambalda we saw the two, East and West Kambalda, mining communities where nickel is now mined - the gold dried up at the beginning of the century. This looked about as uninteresting as anywhere could look and looked pretty dour, particularly with the heavy fog. Just after we left Kambalda, we did see two emus beside the road, which was a highlight of this rather dull and drear morning.
We arrived at Boulder, the twin town with Kalgoorlie soon after 9.30 and made our way to the railway station where there was a tourist type train journey on the Golden Mile, the old goldfield route and we investigated it and took ourselves off to this. A young lad had told us that we’d left our lights on and it turned out later he was the chap driving the train. I must say this was the ugliest train journey I've ever been on. I've never seen such godforsaken looking places, it filled me with just yuk. I did not find it an enjoyable experience.
Awoke quite early about 5.30 which would have been 7.00 and it was still dark, the reason being it was very misty and it stayed that way for a while and didn't really entice us to get up, although it was attractive in its mistiness, but it would have been nice to see some sun. We left at 7.15 and headed north, there were a large number of road trains on this route. We headed for Kalgoorlie - Boulder, but the fog didn't show any signs of lifting. Every now and again we'd go into a little reprieve where we could suddenly see but then we went back into rather thick fog again.
At Widgiemooltha we did a little tour of the deserted town and at Kambalda we saw the two, East and West Kambalda, mining communities where nickel is now mined - the gold dried up at the beginning of the century. This looked about as uninteresting as anywhere could look and looked pretty dour, particularly with the heavy fog. Just after we left Kambalda, we did see two emus beside the road, which was a highlight of this rather dull and drear morning.
We arrived at Boulder, the twin town with Kalgoorlie soon after 9.30 and made our way to the railway station where there was a tourist type train journey on the Golden Mile, the old goldfield route and we investigated it and took ourselves off to this. A young lad had told us that we’d left our lights on and it turned out later he was the chap driving the train. I must say this was the ugliest train journey I've ever been on. I've never seen such godforsaken looking places, it filled me with just yuk. I did not find it an enjoyable experience.
It was quite interesting watching the various people on the train but I couldn't think of anything more unattractive to make an hour or so's trip out of, going about two miles an hour and stopping looking at holes in the ground which were desolate. But then I hadn't got this urge to dig up gold out of the ground. The best things were a couple of Sturt Peas which we saw on our way out and we we're so busy looking the other way, I missed on the way back and a couple of other flowers being grown to make the station look pretty. We stopped to get out and view the big pit, a huge new mine area being dug out, which just made you gasp with the size of it and made me feel quite ill. I think Emma ought to say come back North Yorkshire Moors all is forgiven, at least that is pretty.
The tourist train at Boulder
To make a tourist attraction out of going on this tatty little train up and down for an hour and 10 minutes or so is quite beyond my belief, that's all I can say, let's get outta here. There was a commentary which was rather Heath Robinson, it kept stopping and starting and missing bits out in fact when we got back to the railway station it started off again saying 'Welcome to the train' - they’d forgot to turn it off. Added to that there was a woman who collected the tickets, an unattractive looking lady in tight trousers and jumper, not the prettiest looking woman who came and added one or two items of wisdom for us to share. All told it was a strange experience. We came back to the van and although now 11.30, as we'd had breakfast very early, we had coffee and a piece of cake. There was coffee on the train but the last mentioned woman seemed rather preoccupied and we didn't go and get any. We stopped and had a walk up and down the main street of Boulder and the desecration continued as far as I was concerned. There had been some previously nice buildings but only decadence, nothing that made you feel there was any prosperity, nothing very nice at all. The shops were the tattiest lot of shops and most were closed and I know it was Saturday midday but everything had a look that it had seen better days.
We stopped on the road along to Kalgoorlie and went into a bottle shop and bought a couple bottles of wine and bottle of whiskey at a seemingly good price and then made our way and into Kalgoorlie where we parked and we found it rather more upmarket than Boulder with some fine old buildings, particularly hotels. We had passed quite a few nice old houses on the way, by nice old houses I mean original houses. We walked up and down the main street of Kalgoorlie and went into the tourist information. We found the town more affluent, quite a lot of shops, clothes shops, shoe shops, and hairdressers.
The promise of sun, which we'd heard on the radio suddenly happened and became very hot. It was now well past lunchtime and we took ourselves up to a waste piece of land at the end of a town, having not found a park or anything resembling any such thing. All was going well sitting inside having our lunch when first one and then another aborigine came along, the first asked for a cigarette and went on his way. The second wasn't so easily put off and sat in our doorway and begged food - nothing we gave him was good enough. We then understood a lot of the things people have said about Aborigines which is very sad, instead of saying thank you and going he just begged more and more. I think we've learned a very important lesson here. Feeling rather angry at this intrusion we then set off and found Paddy Hannon's tree. Paddy Hannon was the person with Thomas Flanagan and Daniel Shea who discovered gold here in June 1893. There were one or two inscriptions telling about this and the tree, which was replanted in 1993. We located a swimming pool which was an outdoor one and closed and didn't look in a great state of repair.
We made our way now to Coolgardie, stopping for a snooze on the way and thinking how different the trees looked in the sunshine. We were stopped at Coolgardie for police check, just looking at licences and they asked Adrian if he had anything to drink today, and we then continued through Coolgardie to a Camel Farm just the other side. It was now four o'clock and apparently had rained very heavily here today and the water was lying everywhere and with this red soil, it does make everywhere look in a real mess. At the Camel Farm, the thing that interested Adrian, at the entrance, were all sorts of bits of old farm machinery, particularly the chassis of an old car, 1920s he reckoned. We looked around at the camels, they were just about to be fed. I had thought we might have had a camel ride but obviosly it was the wrong end of the day for that and everywhere looked too mucky to even suggest it.
We stopped on the road along to Kalgoorlie and went into a bottle shop and bought a couple bottles of wine and bottle of whiskey at a seemingly good price and then made our way and into Kalgoorlie where we parked and we found it rather more upmarket than Boulder with some fine old buildings, particularly hotels. We had passed quite a few nice old houses on the way, by nice old houses I mean original houses. We walked up and down the main street of Kalgoorlie and went into the tourist information. We found the town more affluent, quite a lot of shops, clothes shops, shoe shops, and hairdressers.
The promise of sun, which we'd heard on the radio suddenly happened and became very hot. It was now well past lunchtime and we took ourselves up to a waste piece of land at the end of a town, having not found a park or anything resembling any such thing. All was going well sitting inside having our lunch when first one and then another aborigine came along, the first asked for a cigarette and went on his way. The second wasn't so easily put off and sat in our doorway and begged food - nothing we gave him was good enough. We then understood a lot of the things people have said about Aborigines which is very sad, instead of saying thank you and going he just begged more and more. I think we've learned a very important lesson here. Feeling rather angry at this intrusion we then set off and found Paddy Hannon's tree. Paddy Hannon was the person with Thomas Flanagan and Daniel Shea who discovered gold here in June 1893. There were one or two inscriptions telling about this and the tree, which was replanted in 1993. We located a swimming pool which was an outdoor one and closed and didn't look in a great state of repair.
We made our way now to Coolgardie, stopping for a snooze on the way and thinking how different the trees looked in the sunshine. We were stopped at Coolgardie for police check, just looking at licences and they asked Adrian if he had anything to drink today, and we then continued through Coolgardie to a Camel Farm just the other side. It was now four o'clock and apparently had rained very heavily here today and the water was lying everywhere and with this red soil, it does make everywhere look in a real mess. At the Camel Farm, the thing that interested Adrian, at the entrance, were all sorts of bits of old farm machinery, particularly the chassis of an old car, 1920s he reckoned. We looked around at the camels, they were just about to be fed. I had thought we might have had a camel ride but obviosly it was the wrong end of the day for that and everywhere looked too mucky to even suggest it.
The Big Pit which Rosie hated so much
There were all sorts of bits and pieces in the entrance building which seemed to be what museums are like here - a whole lot of old bits and pieces of all sorts, all just strewn around together. There was a big teapot just like Grandma Bower's old teapot, a big yellowy one and edged with green and we enjoyed seeing the camels being fed and then returned to Coolgardie itself. We walked up and down the main street of Coolgardie, huge wide street but a ghost town now, very little left of the town, which was at the beginning of the century a huge mining community and a very busy town. There were information boards up and down either side of the street telling one different bits of history about the town. At the far end was a sort of park with all sorts of bits of machinery and memorabilia, that broke Adrian's heart, that they were all just out there in the air and deteriorating.
One or two things had been restored, but you certainly wouldn't see anything like that in England.
We left and turned to south towards Norseman and started on a fruitless search for somewhere to stop for the night. As we did so there were some strange isolated, billowing clouds in the sky, and the sun being very low, lit them up, one particular pink and then a strange blue glow, rather eerie and threatening. The trouble with this road was that on one side there was a pipe laid, just a few feet from the road and parallel with it and initially on the other side there was a fence, which was very unusual, and when we did come to a parking area it didn't go back any depth because of this fence. We couldn't risk going far off the road anyway because with recent heavy rainfall and everywhere was a red quagmire of muck and we would get stuck in it. Eventually we found a parking space, a few miles north of the junction of the road to Kalgoorlie. It was just about 6 o'clock and just getting dark and we were slightly reticent in case it rained heavily again and we parked only a short way back from the road and were set to for the evening. It was a clear night with lots of stars.
We left and turned to south towards Norseman and started on a fruitless search for somewhere to stop for the night. As we did so there were some strange isolated, billowing clouds in the sky, and the sun being very low, lit them up, one particular pink and then a strange blue glow, rather eerie and threatening. The trouble with this road was that on one side there was a pipe laid, just a few feet from the road and parallel with it and initially on the other side there was a fence, which was very unusual, and when we did come to a parking area it didn't go back any depth because of this fence. We couldn't risk going far off the road anyway because with recent heavy rainfall and everywhere was a red quagmire of muck and we would get stuck in it. Eventually we found a parking space, a few miles north of the junction of the road to Kalgoorlie. It was just about 6 o'clock and just getting dark and we were slightly reticent in case it rained heavily again and we parked only a short way back from the road and were set to for the evening. It was a clear night with lots of stars.
Rosie at the camel farm
The outdoor museum at Coolgardie
Sunday 19th April 319 km
It was a wonderful surprise to awake to a beautiful clear blue sky with the sun rising above the very attractive tall spindly trees which had little bundles of green on the end of the branches like bunches of mistletoe. For the first time for many weeks, we had breakfast outside and apart from the road trains which come by every little while, we enjoyed the peace and we realised how much we'd been missing that.
We drove back down south to Norseman with varying amounts of cloud, but the trees that we mentioned looking glorious, particularly those with the red bark and the bright green foliage. At Norseman we stopped at the BP station and filled up with diesel. We drove a few miles south and turned off a couple of kilometres on a sand road to Dundas Rocks. There were several picnic sites here but just before one, we came to the site of the old town of Dundas, of which there was virtually nothing, actually nothing left at all. By that I meant there were one or two utensils around which presumably were from the old town.
It was a wonderful surprise to awake to a beautiful clear blue sky with the sun rising above the very attractive tall spindly trees which had little bundles of green on the end of the branches like bunches of mistletoe. For the first time for many weeks, we had breakfast outside and apart from the road trains which come by every little while, we enjoyed the peace and we realised how much we'd been missing that.
We drove back down south to Norseman with varying amounts of cloud, but the trees that we mentioned looking glorious, particularly those with the red bark and the bright green foliage. At Norseman we stopped at the BP station and filled up with diesel. We drove a few miles south and turned off a couple of kilometres on a sand road to Dundas Rocks. There were several picnic sites here but just before one, we came to the site of the old town of Dundas, of which there was virtually nothing, actually nothing left at all. By that I meant there were one or two utensils around which presumably were from the old town.
We stopped at the picnic site and had our coffee, sitting on a log, the sun was very hot. There were clouds and it was cooler when the sun went in, naturally. After our coffee, we went for a walk around this area of rocks, which seemed to be strewn over a vast area and some of the rocks are very large. Unfortunately, some had graffiti on, but more of a problem, as far as I was concerned, was the glass scattered around on the ground and we were rather annoyed by pretty large flies, which improved with a spraying of insecticide. The ground was alive with all the little shoots coming through after the recent amount of rain and it's quite exciting to see grass coming through and some areas absolutely covered with little seeds which had just germinated and we're showing patches of green here and there. We also viewed the wall of the reservoir which must have served the town when it was here, and this was in the process of being rebuilt.
We stopped briefly at the Bromus Dam a small reservoir which was built apparently in the past, so that the steam engines could fill up with water - it didn't excite me madly. We stopped for lunch in a layby which was marred only by flies again. We passed the tiny township with the interesting name of Salmon Gums, named after the Mallee eucalyptus trees mentioned earlier with their redddy coloured bark. There was a huge grain store being built there. A few miles on we came into the so called township of Grass Patch, a wonderful name and very appropriate as just prior to this the verge beside the road had sprung up a vivid green, which seemed unreal, but alas the township of Grass Patch was no more. There was a tin post office and stores 'buttoned up' and a deserted house and there were some new grain stores, which seemed to be the only thing that was happening here and a so called Memorial Park which just seemed to be a Memorial, nothing else of Grass Patch despite its interesting name.
It now looked rather English looking out onto fields which were beginning to green, and for the first time for a long time we saw sheep in the fields and odd little lambs although it's autumn here. We approached Esperance and realised that we needed somewhere to stay for tonight, and that it might be difficult, and in fact turned back off on the road out of Esperance, by a lake where we had seen in our book of free campsites that there was a place where we could camp. Unfortunately, when we got there it said 'no camping', they had just newly gravelled a little area. It was now 4 o'clock, and we went down the road to a lake, called Monjingup Lake, which was a reserve. We then spent an hour and a half walking around this reserve, which was full of delight. Lots and lots of birds, honey eaters and all sorts an lots of banksias of different varieties.
We stopped briefly at the Bromus Dam a small reservoir which was built apparently in the past, so that the steam engines could fill up with water - it didn't excite me madly. We stopped for lunch in a layby which was marred only by flies again. We passed the tiny township with the interesting name of Salmon Gums, named after the Mallee eucalyptus trees mentioned earlier with their redddy coloured bark. There was a huge grain store being built there. A few miles on we came into the so called township of Grass Patch, a wonderful name and very appropriate as just prior to this the verge beside the road had sprung up a vivid green, which seemed unreal, but alas the township of Grass Patch was no more. There was a tin post office and stores 'buttoned up' and a deserted house and there were some new grain stores, which seemed to be the only thing that was happening here and a so called Memorial Park which just seemed to be a Memorial, nothing else of Grass Patch despite its interesting name.
It now looked rather English looking out onto fields which were beginning to green, and for the first time for a long time we saw sheep in the fields and odd little lambs although it's autumn here. We approached Esperance and realised that we needed somewhere to stay for tonight, and that it might be difficult, and in fact turned back off on the road out of Esperance, by a lake where we had seen in our book of free campsites that there was a place where we could camp. Unfortunately, when we got there it said 'no camping', they had just newly gravelled a little area. It was now 4 o'clock, and we went down the road to a lake, called Monjingup Lake, which was a reserve. We then spent an hour and a half walking around this reserve, which was full of delight. Lots and lots of birds, honey eaters and all sorts an lots of banksias of different varieties.
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Dundas Rocks town site
Rosie by the Dundas Rocks
We could hear frogs, we'd seen a label about a moaning frog amongst others, and certainly that's what it sounded like. A long moaning sound, in amongst the rushes and other flowers that we saw. It seemed to be teeming with wildlife, a lot of the birds were flying up and catching insects in the air. We very much enjoyed that on a pleasantly, warm and still evening.
At about 5.30 we made our way back, up to the other place just up the road. It was rather rolling country here and it looked almost like hedges and farms and we heard cows mooing nearby. It seemed more English than anything we'd experienced for a long time. During the evening we wrote to Toti and we tried phoning Tom at Elm Gable, but got the answerphone. He tried us later and couldn't get through, and annoyingly in the morning we had a message from Simon who had tried us and got through but that was just after we'd turned the phone off about 9.30. We go to bed early and get up early trying to fit in with these new timescales. During the evening we were a bit disconcerted to hear a car draw in next to us and it transpired after a bit of anxiety on both of our parts that it was people who had come in to camp, and they took one of the barriers away and erected two small tents – and we were worried about motorhoming here!
At about 5.30 we made our way back, up to the other place just up the road. It was rather rolling country here and it looked almost like hedges and farms and we heard cows mooing nearby. It seemed more English than anything we'd experienced for a long time. During the evening we wrote to Toti and we tried phoning Tom at Elm Gable, but got the answerphone. He tried us later and couldn't get through, and annoyingly in the morning we had a message from Simon who had tried us and got through but that was just after we'd turned the phone off about 9.30. We go to bed early and get up early trying to fit in with these new timescales. During the evening we were a bit disconcerted to hear a car draw in next to us and it transpired after a bit of anxiety on both of our parts that it was people who had come in to camp, and they took one of the barriers away and erected two small tents – and we were worried about motorhoming here!
Baksias in Monjingup Lake Reserve
Monday 20th April. 100km
We had intended getting up early to go back to the reserve and see if there was any more birdlife early in the morning, so Adrian was up early making cup of tea, we then left. The sun was just coming up, but unfortunately a very grey day. We then went straight back to the reserve, half a mile or so down the road and at about 6.45, started a walk around there rather like the walk that we did yesterday evening. We didn't see a great deal that was different, but we did see a lot of birds which we think are wattle birds, and they look like merecats on the tops of trees looking out and giving alarm calls. The carolling particularly of the magpies when we arrived was quite lovely and a lot of birdsong. It was pleasant walking around there, no other people of course. Another camper had stayed the night at this site, which we had decided not to, as it was rather more obvious. When we got back to the van, we prepared breakfast and then took it out to sit on one of the seats in the park and were ready to leave at about 8.30
We now embarked on the 40 kilometre Great Ocean Drive, formerly known as the Tourist Loop Road. Initially this went around the Pink Lake and we stopped at a viewing point around there. The lake looked pink on the fringes but not so much further out, but it was very still with reflections of sand dunes and trees around it. While we were there the rubbish collecting van came in and the chap spoke to us while getting the rubbish and he said it usually looks more pink than this but because of the rain it takes a while to get back to its pink colour. He wished us well on our travels. We reached the sea and went to view it but didn't go down to the beach as the steps down weren't very good and we were quite high up. It had beautiful white sand and a turquoise sea but a shame about the grey sky. We went on to the beach a bit further along, the place seem to be called Nine Mile Beach, 10 mile lagoon and 11 Mile Beach Road which all seemed to be a bit Irish. The beach here had rocks on it under the fine white sand, but the rock the cliffs were made of was very strange - quite honeycombed, but also with hollow cylinders rather like the opposite of stalactites in that they had holes, much like drain pipes, in amongst the rock. Certainly, a spectacular bit of coastline here.
A bit further along was Observatory Point where the French boats Espérance and Recherche came in 1792 and established Esperance. There were lots of little islands, this place also called the Bay of Isles, but we just wished that there wasn't the grey sky.
We had intended getting up early to go back to the reserve and see if there was any more birdlife early in the morning, so Adrian was up early making cup of tea, we then left. The sun was just coming up, but unfortunately a very grey day. We then went straight back to the reserve, half a mile or so down the road and at about 6.45, started a walk around there rather like the walk that we did yesterday evening. We didn't see a great deal that was different, but we did see a lot of birds which we think are wattle birds, and they look like merecats on the tops of trees looking out and giving alarm calls. The carolling particularly of the magpies when we arrived was quite lovely and a lot of birdsong. It was pleasant walking around there, no other people of course. Another camper had stayed the night at this site, which we had decided not to, as it was rather more obvious. When we got back to the van, we prepared breakfast and then took it out to sit on one of the seats in the park and were ready to leave at about 8.30
We now embarked on the 40 kilometre Great Ocean Drive, formerly known as the Tourist Loop Road. Initially this went around the Pink Lake and we stopped at a viewing point around there. The lake looked pink on the fringes but not so much further out, but it was very still with reflections of sand dunes and trees around it. While we were there the rubbish collecting van came in and the chap spoke to us while getting the rubbish and he said it usually looks more pink than this but because of the rain it takes a while to get back to its pink colour. He wished us well on our travels. We reached the sea and went to view it but didn't go down to the beach as the steps down weren't very good and we were quite high up. It had beautiful white sand and a turquoise sea but a shame about the grey sky. We went on to the beach a bit further along, the place seem to be called Nine Mile Beach, 10 mile lagoon and 11 Mile Beach Road which all seemed to be a bit Irish. The beach here had rocks on it under the fine white sand, but the rock the cliffs were made of was very strange - quite honeycombed, but also with hollow cylinders rather like the opposite of stalactites in that they had holes, much like drain pipes, in amongst the rock. Certainly, a spectacular bit of coastline here.
A bit further along was Observatory Point where the French boats Espérance and Recherche came in 1792 and established Esperance. There were lots of little islands, this place also called the Bay of Isles, but we just wished that there wasn't the grey sky.
We had a look at Picnic Cove and then went along the rest of the beach and looked out from Wireless Hill at a lookout built by the Rotary Club and then down into Esperance itself. We then headed for a swimming pool. This was rather a basic sort of swimming pool but at least it was open. The water was cold although it said it was a heated pool, it was a sort of square pool about 25m by 25m and by the end of the 20 minute swim I was nicely warmed up. But we then found that the showers were also cold which was a bit of a downer, because having a shower and hairwash after swimming was a bonus normally. I chatted to a girl in there, who was travelling around Australia with her husband and had actually had stopped off to work in Esperance for a year. While we were chatting, there was a tremendous crashing on the roof and I realised it was raining heavily. We made our way out to the van and had our tea coffee in the van as it continued to rain and very grey.
We continued to busy ourselves with jobs in Esperance, I took the film in to be developed next, and the lady in there said "was I coming to visit my relation Ralph Bower" and I said "no, we had just seen a reference to Jill Bower in the swimming pool on a notice” and "yes" she said "that was his wife, there is only one Bower family here, I thought you'd come to visit them". The photos by the way, weren't very good when I got them back. We then went to the laundrette, wonderful things laundrettes when you're travelling and while the washing was doing we went across to the SuperValu supermarket, first of all to the booze part of it. And having done all that, the washing was all done and we then went and had lunch in the van on the front, wishing that the weather was nicer. We then went to a garage where Adrian did all the van looking after things, filling up with diesel, getting the gas bottle filled, filling up with water, cleaning over the van and then we collected my photos. We we went to the toilet on the front and empted the loo and then we wanted to photocopy the letter we’d written to Toti.
We'd done that and were just making our way back to check the postage at the post office when the phone went and there was Tom on the phone phoning from Elm Gable, just on his way back to Sheffield and he was then off to Ireland for a few days. So we were able to have a chat and found out that Paul and Nicky had put some money down on a house and several other items of interest. It was nice to chat to him being in Esperance as he was here last year and him also having crossed the Nullarbor. And he mentioned to us that under the wooden jetty, there was a sea lion which I had read in the notes here but not taken in, so we made our way there next and sure enough, there was a large adult sea lion right underneath the pier and two younger sea lions, and we spent a happy half hour watching and filming them.
We continued to busy ourselves with jobs in Esperance, I took the film in to be developed next, and the lady in there said "was I coming to visit my relation Ralph Bower" and I said "no, we had just seen a reference to Jill Bower in the swimming pool on a notice” and "yes" she said "that was his wife, there is only one Bower family here, I thought you'd come to visit them". The photos by the way, weren't very good when I got them back. We then went to the laundrette, wonderful things laundrettes when you're travelling and while the washing was doing we went across to the SuperValu supermarket, first of all to the booze part of it. And having done all that, the washing was all done and we then went and had lunch in the van on the front, wishing that the weather was nicer. We then went to a garage where Adrian did all the van looking after things, filling up with diesel, getting the gas bottle filled, filling up with water, cleaning over the van and then we collected my photos. We we went to the toilet on the front and empted the loo and then we wanted to photocopy the letter we’d written to Toti.
We'd done that and were just making our way back to check the postage at the post office when the phone went and there was Tom on the phone phoning from Elm Gable, just on his way back to Sheffield and he was then off to Ireland for a few days. So we were able to have a chat and found out that Paul and Nicky had put some money down on a house and several other items of interest. It was nice to chat to him being in Esperance as he was here last year and him also having crossed the Nullarbor. And he mentioned to us that under the wooden jetty, there was a sea lion which I had read in the notes here but not taken in, so we made our way there next and sure enough, there was a large adult sea lion right underneath the pier and two younger sea lions, and we spent a happy half hour watching and filming them.
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Obsevatory Beach from Obversatory Point, Esperance (streetview 2024)
The sun had now come out and it was quite pleasant and we could see that, as we knew before, that this place is very, very beautiful with the islands and headlands all around it, and the turquoise sea.
We then made our way out of Esperance in an easterly direction towards Cape Le Grand National Park. We drove into the Park which was incredibly beautiful with just masses of greenery and hills and sea and islands just beyond. We went down to the campsite at Le Grand Beach, the actual pitches were sort of hidden behind hedges. We arrived just as the sun was going down behind one of the islands and we were just in time to photograph the sunset, from this beautiful white beach
We then made our way out of Esperance in an easterly direction towards Cape Le Grand National Park. We drove into the Park which was incredibly beautiful with just masses of greenery and hills and sea and islands just beyond. We went down to the campsite at Le Grand Beach, the actual pitches were sort of hidden behind hedges. We arrived just as the sun was going down behind one of the islands and we were just in time to photograph the sunset, from this beautiful white beach
Sea Lion by the jetty, Esperance
. A very dramatic sky and it came on to rain as we got back to the van at the superb location here. Tom had told us that my article had gone into the family tree magazine, it will be interesting to see it some time and we looked through our photos. We prepared supper and heard the very sad news that Linda McCartney had died. We did a bit more of the scrapbook – the Tahiti section of it and later went down onto the beach, there were some clouds around but there are still plenty of stars to see.
Tuesday 21st April. 140 km
A rather grey day to wake up to, unfortunately. We decided to drive out of the camping area into the car park so we could have breakfast looking out onto the lovely sea and the islands. While we were doing so the camp Ranger came around in his van said we shouldn't be camping there and ought to be in the camping area and we said we had been, but I'm quite sure that he didn't believe us. Anyway, he didn't take any money from us for last night.
A rather grey day to wake up to, unfortunately. We decided to drive out of the camping area into the car park so we could have breakfast looking out onto the lovely sea and the islands. While we were doing so the camp Ranger came around in his van said we shouldn't be camping there and ought to be in the camping area and we said we had been, but I'm quite sure that he didn't believe us. Anyway, he didn't take any money from us for last night.
We had a short walk onto the beach before we left and noticed the rocks at the end of the beach, which were rather like the Remarkable Rocks on Kangaroo Island. We drove along to the car park to ascend Frenchmans Peak which we attempted. We walked for quite a distance amongst many flowering plants new to us and couple of different red flowering bushes and a myriad of different, rather hard to find little flowers, but the upper part of this peak was just a sheer rock and I knew I wasn't going to make that either up or down, so we returned to the van.
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The carpark where we had breakfast and the Ranger was sure we had stayed (streetview 2008)
We had had some lovely views of greenery all around and then sea and the islands and unfortunately the grey cloudy sky. We next drove to Thistle Cove where there was a supposed Heritage Trail for a one kilometre circuit. We had an enjoyable walk, for half a kilometre and we saw a couple of kangaroos hiding in the undergrowth. It was quite a rough walk although it was on the easy description, but after half a kilometre, we realised we had to return the way we'd come which was rather annoying. We do get so frustrated with that, when you can't do a circular walk, but the views were exquisite with this white sandy beach and turquoise water and greenery all around. We returned and then drove to Lucky Bay and the view over Lucky Bay was even more exquisite with the whiteness and the turquoise and that's where we had morning coffee stop. As we took our tea and coffee onto the beach we found there wasn't anywhere to sit, the tide must come right up over the beach and it was rather wet. We sat on a bit of supposedly dried white seaweed at the upper end of the beach but Adrian soon got a wet bottom and as we went back to the van it started to rain a few spots, but it was only a few spots.
We now headed back west towards Esperance which we skirted and carried on westward stopping for our lunch in a lay by which went onto an old bit of road. We were plagued by lots of little flidges and lots of ants on the ground. We carried on a bit further turning off to a place called Quagi beach where there was an informal sort of campsite, virtually free with a beautiful cove again, white sand, turquoise water, and now a clear blue sky, so the water looked beautiful.
We now headed back west towards Esperance which we skirted and carried on westward stopping for our lunch in a lay by which went onto an old bit of road. We were plagued by lots of little flidges and lots of ants on the ground. We carried on a bit further turning off to a place called Quagi beach where there was an informal sort of campsite, virtually free with a beautiful cove again, white sand, turquoise water, and now a clear blue sky, so the water looked beautiful.
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Thistle Cove, Cape Le Grand NP,(streetview 2024)
Frenchmans Peak, Cape Le Grand NP (streetview 2013)
We settled ourselves in there and had a little walk around and chatted to a neighbouring couple, a bit older than us who were also driving around Australia in an older coaster.
The sun was shining now in a clear blue sky and we walked down to the cove, first in one direction and then the other direction for quite long way around the headland. There were different sorts of rocks on this beach, some very jagged and then later on ones like Remarkable Rocks, mixed in with some black rocks too. With white sand and turquoise sea it made a very pleasant walk and then back along the track above the beach with the sun still shining. We ate earlier tonight, and Adrian cooked T-bone steaks outside. Later in the evening I did the Tahiti bit of the scrapbooks.
The sun was shining now in a clear blue sky and we walked down to the cove, first in one direction and then the other direction for quite long way around the headland. There were different sorts of rocks on this beach, some very jagged and then later on ones like Remarkable Rocks, mixed in with some black rocks too. With white sand and turquoise sea it made a very pleasant walk and then back along the track above the beach with the sun still shining. We ate earlier tonight, and Adrian cooked T-bone steaks outside. Later in the evening I did the Tahiti bit of the scrapbooks.
Quagi Beach
Wednesday 22nd April. 33 km
We were late leaving at 9.30, with a clear blue sky, the sun was shining, but there was a very strong wind, so consequently we'd had breakfast inside in our little spot. Then we walked down to the beach, this perfect, beautiful cove, quite magnificent to watch the waves rolling in. We'd heard on the radio that Monday is a bank holiday as it is Anzac Day on Saturday and so after that maybe there'll be less people around - but there aren't exactly that many around anyway and we made the long trail on the dirt road back to the main road.
We drove down into Stokes National Park but we firstly tried to find the warden but he wasn't at his house so that we could get a holiday permit which would last for a month. We carried on and had our tea and coffee sitting on the cushions from the box and stuck on top of a little pole. We then did another Heritage Trail, this one was very pleasant and went round in a circle above Stokes Inlet, which is where we are and very picturesque, blue water, white sands, green greenery, blue sky and the wind by now was warm. We drove on down to the inlet and then went for a delightful walk right to the end of the inlet and then over the sand dunes to the sea. This took us about an hour and in fact, I walked back barefooted paddling now and again. We got back, sooner than expected, but well after one, so we set too and had lunch.
We were late leaving at 9.30, with a clear blue sky, the sun was shining, but there was a very strong wind, so consequently we'd had breakfast inside in our little spot. Then we walked down to the beach, this perfect, beautiful cove, quite magnificent to watch the waves rolling in. We'd heard on the radio that Monday is a bank holiday as it is Anzac Day on Saturday and so after that maybe there'll be less people around - but there aren't exactly that many around anyway and we made the long trail on the dirt road back to the main road.
We drove down into Stokes National Park but we firstly tried to find the warden but he wasn't at his house so that we could get a holiday permit which would last for a month. We carried on and had our tea and coffee sitting on the cushions from the box and stuck on top of a little pole. We then did another Heritage Trail, this one was very pleasant and went round in a circle above Stokes Inlet, which is where we are and very picturesque, blue water, white sands, green greenery, blue sky and the wind by now was warm. We drove on down to the inlet and then went for a delightful walk right to the end of the inlet and then over the sand dunes to the sea. This took us about an hour and in fact, I walked back barefooted paddling now and again. We got back, sooner than expected, but well after one, so we set too and had lunch.
We were very low on bread and rolls, so we had one roll, two crusts of bread and opened a tin of tuna and with the cheese and biscuits and banana had a lovely lunch sitting on this little bit of beach and watched the birds, particularly an Avocet feeding in front of us. We'd noticed several bees on the sand which amazed us we think they were collecting water. We moved the van a short distance to a nice spot right by the beach and we'd just done that and I’d gone to put the rubbish in the bin behind us, when I noticed a huge spider the size of a crab, with legs about two inches long. We weren't too sure about him at all and we found out later from the Ranger that it was a Golden Orb spider.
Rosie having lunch at Stokes Inlet
We now set off for a walk along the other direction and along the inlet and we walked for quite a long way. In fact once you came to the other campsite, we saw a lot more of these Avocet. We came back and had a cup of tea outside. just very very still and peaceful - nobody else around. Then the Ranger came in his van with his wife and two little boys and stayed quite a while - very nice people. We got our holiday permit which lasts for a month so we can visit any park in Western Australia and he also collected some wood so that we can light the barbecue tonight, which is just outside. Adrian moved the van a bit so it's not too close to it, but it was difficult as we had to stack it up on wood to make it level. A beautiful location and although we didn't have a sunset there were some lovely pinky colours in the sky.
One of those magical evening followed. Adrian got the fire going on the barbecue and we cooked meat outside and sat outside to eat and it was just lovely, very very still very quiet, just the sea in the distance, but there was nobody around except us.
One of those magical evening followed. Adrian got the fire going on the barbecue and we cooked meat outside and sat outside to eat and it was just lovely, very very still very quiet, just the sea in the distance, but there was nobody around except us.
Golden Orb Spider on a bin
We sat outside enjoying this for a long time. After a while there were a few drops of rain and this went on for a long time just a few drops and then it would stop and then a few more drops and we decided to walk out onto the beach next to us and when we looked up, there were a myriad of stars in fact the sky seemed to be half clear above us. We watched a spider, not our big friendly Golden Orb, a smaller one making its web from a tree and down to the ground and back up again. There were just a few sounds of nature around us and just the stillness. We eventually came in at 9.30. It was just one of those evenings that we shall always treasure.
Adrian barbecueing supper while Rosie waits
Thursday 23rd April 164 km
Not a very good night for me, it was actually warm after the coldness of the previous night. At about 6 o'clock there was a very pinky sky, we'd left the curtains open so we could see the stars and the fire when we went to bed and the pinky sky was reflecting in the inlet in front of us so we got to see it. We got up to see the sunrise which was quite spectacular, quite wonderful.
Not a very good night for me, it was actually warm after the coldness of the previous night. At about 6 o'clock there was a very pinky sky, we'd left the curtains open so we could see the stars and the fire when we went to bed and the pinky sky was reflecting in the inlet in front of us so we got to see it. We got up to see the sunrise which was quite spectacular, quite wonderful.
We enjoyed our early morning cup of tea outside and then got breakfast. Adrian rekindled the barbecue and we cooked bacon and egg on that and sat there watching the early morning birds and the sun rising in the sky. Adrian had a shock when he took the frying pan out of the boot of the van and a little mouse jumped out and ran away. We were reluctant to leave this idyllic spot, I couldn't think we could get anywhere lovelier. We left our spot about 8.20 and then called in to see the Ranger to collect some maps from him. His little boy the, older one Declan who was four, had just learned to ride a bike and was very proud of himself. We then called in at the entrance to sign the visitors book.
It was now 8.45 and we returned to the main road and went along it for a few miles before turning off towards the sea again, down Fuss road. We then turned off onto a gravel road to Munglinup Beach, again a beautiful cove. The water became deep, quickly because there was an underwater reef a little way out which would have been ideal swimming, but there was very cool, strong wind blowing. There was a little campsite here but not as nice as the position that we'd been in last night as the site was back from the sea. We travelled a bit further west and then took a road down towards the coast again, a vast area here had been burnt. We reached the coast at a pretty little cove, Mason Bay, which shelved really steeply so the waves crashed against it. We had a paddle but you had to be careful that the paddle didn't become a submersion, and we had our tea and coffee there and the last of the fruit cake that we'd bought for Easter.
We stopped at another beach a bit further on and having climbed over the sand dunes to get to the beach, it ended in a steep descent right into a lagoon made by the sea coming over a sand bank, and this was just perfect, as it was deep enough to swim in. So we had a lovely refreshing swim there, we hadn't come equipped for it at all, but anyway there were no people around anywhere.
It was now 8.45 and we returned to the main road and went along it for a few miles before turning off towards the sea again, down Fuss road. We then turned off onto a gravel road to Munglinup Beach, again a beautiful cove. The water became deep, quickly because there was an underwater reef a little way out which would have been ideal swimming, but there was very cool, strong wind blowing. There was a little campsite here but not as nice as the position that we'd been in last night as the site was back from the sea. We travelled a bit further west and then took a road down towards the coast again, a vast area here had been burnt. We reached the coast at a pretty little cove, Mason Bay, which shelved really steeply so the waves crashed against it. We had a paddle but you had to be careful that the paddle didn't become a submersion, and we had our tea and coffee there and the last of the fruit cake that we'd bought for Easter.
We stopped at another beach a bit further on and having climbed over the sand dunes to get to the beach, it ended in a steep descent right into a lagoon made by the sea coming over a sand bank, and this was just perfect, as it was deep enough to swim in. So we had a lovely refreshing swim there, we hadn't come equipped for it at all, but anyway there were no people around anywhere.
Sunrise at Stokes Inlet
Rosie near Hopetoun
We then returned to the van and drove a bit further on, whereupon we stopped at another idyllic little beach. The waves were rather larger, but it was nice for a sunbathe on the sand. We then went a bit further and as it was now lunchtime and having still not been able to buy any bread or rolls for lunch, we stopped above the sea and cooked pancakes outside.
We carried on into Hopetoun, a little one eyed town, where there was one small food store where we struggled to get enough food to last us for a few days and also got some diesel, and we then continued west into Fitzgerald River National Park.
We carried on into Hopetoun, a little one eyed town, where there was one small food store where we struggled to get enough food to last us for a few days and also got some diesel, and we then continued west into Fitzgerald River National Park.
We were unsure about whether or not we could actually camp in here, it said no caravans, and we couldn't find the Ranger, so we actually backtracked a bit and ended up in a large car park area, the end of which was called Seaview road, and it was called Beach Place. But it was in fact at least a five minute trek over the sand dunes to the sea. When you did get there it was a lovely beach, and you could see the hills of Fitzgerald River Park.
Looking back to Hopetoun from Fitzgerald River NP
Sunset over Mt Barren East, Fitzgerald River NP
We returned to the van and having done little detours around a couple of little roads there which looked like Ravenscar in North Yorkshire, the roads were down and plots of land up for sale but nothing else had happened. It was obviously going to be an extension to Hopetoun in the future, but there was nowhere obvious to stop so we settled back in the car park, and had a very pleasant evening with clear blue sky and later I walked back down to the beach to watch and photograph the sunset.
I wrote some postcards during the evening and also contacted Landbase to send our post to Bunbury.
Friday 24th April 196 km
The night was windy with a little bit of rain, and we awoke to a very windy morning. We left our car park spot and drove to the outskirts of the Fitzgerald River National Park and had our breakfast there overlooking the Culham Inlet. We saw a large bird of prey above us and had a look at the beach there.
We then drove into Fitzgerald River National Park and down to Barrens beach, a dear little cove, it was very hot in the van but a very strong wind so we didn't stay long on the beach. We continued into Fitzgerald River National Park with spectacular views, particularly as we climbed higher and looked back over the coastline and also some interesting and different plants. Different sorts of banksias and eucalypts, and some very strange plants - there are a lot of plants which are only in this park.
The night was windy with a little bit of rain, and we awoke to a very windy morning. We left our car park spot and drove to the outskirts of the Fitzgerald River National Park and had our breakfast there overlooking the Culham Inlet. We saw a large bird of prey above us and had a look at the beach there.
We then drove into Fitzgerald River National Park and down to Barrens beach, a dear little cove, it was very hot in the van but a very strong wind so we didn't stay long on the beach. We continued into Fitzgerald River National Park with spectacular views, particularly as we climbed higher and looked back over the coastline and also some interesting and different plants. Different sorts of banksias and eucalypts, and some very strange plants - there are a lot of plants which are only in this park.
We made our way down to East Mylies Beach and walked a short distance to the beach, another beautiful beach, still quite blowy and we were interested that the car parks here are only big enough for one or two cars, they obviously don't expect a lot of people at once and we haven't seen a soul today by 9.45. We next made our way to West beach and walked down on to yet another lovely beach where I found the sand squeaky to my feet. We stopped at Sepulcralis Hill where we went for a short walk and looked around to an area of total wilderness, but there were one or two interesting plants there. We decided to drive on to the next stop before we had coffee which was a mistake because the leaflet that we were following was obviously well out of date and there was nowhere else obvious to stop. We then went through a vast vast area which had been burnt so not at all attractive to look at. We eventually stopped near the entrance to the park for our coffee stop and saw two kangaroos as we arrived there but another car came in, only the second one we'd seen today, which annoyed Adrian greatly. As we drove out of the park we saw two emus.
We turned on to the Old Ongerup Road and the fire there was only evident on one side of us. Just after that an emu darted across in front of us but Adrian braked and avoided him. We rejoined the South Coast Highway and stopped for lunch in a largeish layby where I found it a bit chilly, and Adrian found an old oil can [to do an oil change on the van, later], so it wasn't a wasted stop. We drove into Jerramungup and called in at the tourist information, which wasn't madly exciting. We found a supermarket, another Foodland and that wasn't very exciting either. We had to hunt around for various things we wanted, or ask where they were - matches for instance, they were difficult to find and Rennies, we found them eventually. There was a water tap outside and we asked if we could fill up with water and they didn't exactly say No, but certainly it wasn't Yes, so we then looked around for another tap, but couldn't find one. We managed to post the postcards at the post office and then went to a petrol station and got some expensive diesel thinking we could use the water tap there but the answer again was no. It seems they're all on water restrictions, and had been for three years.
We now took the South Coast Highway again for some kilometres and then continued on the Gairdner South Road which luckily was a made up road and we were heading for Millers Point. This was an authorised free campsite and down a few miles of unsurfaced road. When we got there, it really was another wonderful place, and it was on a lake or an inlet of an estuary of the Pallinup River, and this little bit of land stuck out into the lake with water either side. We positioned ourselves towards the end of this point. There were little fisherman's huts just up from where we were staying. It was quite beautiful, quite peaceful.
There were lots and lots of waterbirds, pelicans, egrets, black swans, and all sorts of other birds. Adrian had decided it was time to change the oil in the van, hence his need for the oil can that we found at lunchtime that he was so pleased about, to empty the old oil into. It was about 4.30 just gave him time in the daylight to do this not very nice job, while I sat on a log that I'd found in the last of the sunshine, watching these birds through binoculars, and then watching the sun go down. It certainly was a very beautiful place. After supper I put the Kangaroo Island cuttings into the book.
We turned on to the Old Ongerup Road and the fire there was only evident on one side of us. Just after that an emu darted across in front of us but Adrian braked and avoided him. We rejoined the South Coast Highway and stopped for lunch in a largeish layby where I found it a bit chilly, and Adrian found an old oil can [to do an oil change on the van, later], so it wasn't a wasted stop. We drove into Jerramungup and called in at the tourist information, which wasn't madly exciting. We found a supermarket, another Foodland and that wasn't very exciting either. We had to hunt around for various things we wanted, or ask where they were - matches for instance, they were difficult to find and Rennies, we found them eventually. There was a water tap outside and we asked if we could fill up with water and they didn't exactly say No, but certainly it wasn't Yes, so we then looked around for another tap, but couldn't find one. We managed to post the postcards at the post office and then went to a petrol station and got some expensive diesel thinking we could use the water tap there but the answer again was no. It seems they're all on water restrictions, and had been for three years.
We now took the South Coast Highway again for some kilometres and then continued on the Gairdner South Road which luckily was a made up road and we were heading for Millers Point. This was an authorised free campsite and down a few miles of unsurfaced road. When we got there, it really was another wonderful place, and it was on a lake or an inlet of an estuary of the Pallinup River, and this little bit of land stuck out into the lake with water either side. We positioned ourselves towards the end of this point. There were little fisherman's huts just up from where we were staying. It was quite beautiful, quite peaceful.
There were lots and lots of waterbirds, pelicans, egrets, black swans, and all sorts of other birds. Adrian had decided it was time to change the oil in the van, hence his need for the oil can that we found at lunchtime that he was so pleased about, to empty the old oil into. It was about 4.30 just gave him time in the daylight to do this not very nice job, while I sat on a log that I'd found in the last of the sunshine, watching these birds through binoculars, and then watching the sun go down. It certainly was a very beautiful place. After supper I put the Kangaroo Island cuttings into the book.
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Royal Hakea
Oakleaved Dryandra
Pincushion Hakea (Hakea Laurina)
Another beautiful sunset at Millers Point
Saturday 25th April 220 km
This was Anzac Day in Australia. We awoke to see the sun rising and shining down onto the water, the other side to which I'd watched the sunset on this little point. It rose into thin cloud shining down to the water which made it look rather like a black and white picture. We sat in bed for a long time with our cup of tea watching this beauty and various birds and ducks in the water. We put on the radio and realised how much Australia does make of Anzac day and heard some other sobering things, different accounts about both Gallipoli and about Thailand, where the Prime Minister of Australia was at then. We walked around this lovely quiet point, before leaving at 9.30
We had decided not to go down to Bremer Bay which was quite a long drive at least 40 kilometres each way and instead, we took the road to going inland to the Sterling Ranges. This was unmade up for a good percentage of the way and we stopped for coffee looking towards the Sterling Ranges which rise out of this flattish plain. We had only just had coffee when just along the road was a viewpoint shown by a camera and we wondered what it was and on looking found it was a windmill with a sign saying that it was the Vineyard. So we went in down the track and it appeared the ‘Lilly Windmill’ which had just been finished last year [in fact it was a windmill which had been built originally in 1906, but had been destroyed by fire in 1993. It had been decided to rebuild it using only second hand materials and had only just been finished], the vineyard looked very small. We were accosted by two small children outside the windmill and the little girl was selling tiny bunches of flowers and little rubber handmade bookmarks that she and her brother had made for 10 and 20 cents. I asked if she could tell me something about the windmill and whether it was an old one restored or a new one. She said "it's very old, it's taken six years to build", which to her was very old. We went inside at which point the boy fell over and was crying, so we didn't stop for anything else and if we hadn’t just have had coffee we would have had our coffee in there, being a little cafe as well. We bought a postcard and picked up a leaflet about it. Outside were two old vehicles - an old coach very much in need of restoring and an old lorry.
This was Anzac Day in Australia. We awoke to see the sun rising and shining down onto the water, the other side to which I'd watched the sunset on this little point. It rose into thin cloud shining down to the water which made it look rather like a black and white picture. We sat in bed for a long time with our cup of tea watching this beauty and various birds and ducks in the water. We put on the radio and realised how much Australia does make of Anzac day and heard some other sobering things, different accounts about both Gallipoli and about Thailand, where the Prime Minister of Australia was at then. We walked around this lovely quiet point, before leaving at 9.30
We had decided not to go down to Bremer Bay which was quite a long drive at least 40 kilometres each way and instead, we took the road to going inland to the Sterling Ranges. This was unmade up for a good percentage of the way and we stopped for coffee looking towards the Sterling Ranges which rise out of this flattish plain. We had only just had coffee when just along the road was a viewpoint shown by a camera and we wondered what it was and on looking found it was a windmill with a sign saying that it was the Vineyard. So we went in down the track and it appeared the ‘Lilly Windmill’ which had just been finished last year [in fact it was a windmill which had been built originally in 1906, but had been destroyed by fire in 1993. It had been decided to rebuild it using only second hand materials and had only just been finished], the vineyard looked very small. We were accosted by two small children outside the windmill and the little girl was selling tiny bunches of flowers and little rubber handmade bookmarks that she and her brother had made for 10 and 20 cents. I asked if she could tell me something about the windmill and whether it was an old one restored or a new one. She said "it's very old, it's taken six years to build", which to her was very old. We went inside at which point the boy fell over and was crying, so we didn't stop for anything else and if we hadn’t just have had coffee we would have had our coffee in there, being a little cafe as well. We bought a postcard and picked up a leaflet about it. Outside were two old vehicles - an old coach very much in need of restoring and an old lorry.
We carried on into Sterling Ranges National Park. We noticed one or two flowers beside the road, rather heather looking flowers, so different from anything we've seen before. Other than that, there were these peaks that make up the Sterling Ranges in a sort of vaguely east west direction, but they were all clothed in uniform looking green. The significant thing here is the black boys, black stemmed plants with what looks like grass growing out of the top and which are dotted everywhere. Other than that, all the peaks look just the same covered in this vegetation. We pulled in to what said it was a scenic lookout, 400 metres, but what it didn't say was it was 400 metres vertically, more or less with a very rough path. The rock was strange, particularly towards the top where it was sort of jutting out at angle, which made it difficult to walk up - the wrong sort of angle. It was difficult to describe. Not much had been done to the path, it was just a way up there and from the top we could view the plains going down towards the sea and these mountains which stick right out from them and peaks all around us. We returned from there and had our lunch in the van in the same car park on account of it being extremely windy and seem to get windier while we were sitting there.
Lily Windmill
We did see some different flowers and different bottle brushes in various places through the Sterling Ranges, but it was such a grey day and as far as we were concerned, the monotonous look of the mountains, so they didn't hit us as that amazing.
We found our way out on unsurfaced road towards Mount Barker and eventually got ourselves to Mount Barker, where with great relief, we were able to find a water tap and fill up with water, which had been our big problem till then. We then headed for the Porongurup Range of mountains. The scenery around here had looked very green and undulating and very English and there were lots of wineries in this area. We drove now into Porongurup National Park, firstly going on the scenic drive and then going up to the car park, where being late in the day there was only time to do a short walk. We did see the 'tree in the rock', a bit like William Ricketts Sculptures, - a tree on top a huge granite rock. We also saw a ring-necked parrot here it would seem the Port Lincoln variety and several other birds which we still wanted to sort out.
We drove out of the park, it was now time to find somewhere to spend the evening and not wanting to go too far away as we hoped to do another walk in the morning. There was a campsite just out of the park but were rather reluctant to go there, having just filled up with water, but looking around didn't find anywhere else, so did end up in the campsite, which only had a couple of other people in it anyway. So we took advantage by having showers and hair wash which was good and of doing the washing which would have been brilliant except I forgot to put my underclothes in!
We found our way out on unsurfaced road towards Mount Barker and eventually got ourselves to Mount Barker, where with great relief, we were able to find a water tap and fill up with water, which had been our big problem till then. We then headed for the Porongurup Range of mountains. The scenery around here had looked very green and undulating and very English and there were lots of wineries in this area. We drove now into Porongurup National Park, firstly going on the scenic drive and then going up to the car park, where being late in the day there was only time to do a short walk. We did see the 'tree in the rock', a bit like William Ricketts Sculptures, - a tree on top a huge granite rock. We also saw a ring-necked parrot here it would seem the Port Lincoln variety and several other birds which we still wanted to sort out.
We drove out of the park, it was now time to find somewhere to spend the evening and not wanting to go too far away as we hoped to do another walk in the morning. There was a campsite just out of the park but were rather reluctant to go there, having just filled up with water, but looking around didn't find anywhere else, so did end up in the campsite, which only had a couple of other people in it anyway. So we took advantage by having showers and hair wash which was good and of doing the washing which would have been brilliant except I forgot to put my underclothes in!
Rosie in the Stirling Ranges NP
Sunday, 26th April. 62 km
We awoke to a grey day but actually the sun very soon came out. There had been sprinklings of rain during the night. By 9.30, we'd driven back into the park and parked in the carpark and ascended the footpath to Balancing Rock and Castle Rock. We were perhaps disappointed at the lack of any bird life in the trees after last night. It was quite a pleasant walk but we couldn't really see out much because of the tall Karri trees. When we got to the top, which took about half an hour to actually climb and quite a steep walk, there were enormous granite boulders, there had been some on the way up too, but the last bit from the Balancing Rock up to the Castle Rock was real rock climbing and very difficult. I managed to do it, but then there was an ascent on a long ladder with a sort of wire along it for a handrail, to the top of the rock, which despite a couple of attempts, I didn't make.
We awoke to a grey day but actually the sun very soon came out. There had been sprinklings of rain during the night. By 9.30, we'd driven back into the park and parked in the carpark and ascended the footpath to Balancing Rock and Castle Rock. We were perhaps disappointed at the lack of any bird life in the trees after last night. It was quite a pleasant walk but we couldn't really see out much because of the tall Karri trees. When we got to the top, which took about half an hour to actually climb and quite a steep walk, there were enormous granite boulders, there had been some on the way up too, but the last bit from the Balancing Rock up to the Castle Rock was real rock climbing and very difficult. I managed to do it, but then there was an ascent on a long ladder with a sort of wire along it for a handrail, to the top of the rock, which despite a couple of attempts, I didn't make.
We met another lady there who was the forward party of another group, and on the way down we'd actually passed quite a few groups of people. We did tell one group how long the walk was and they decided not to go. We had our coffee at a large picnic table at the bottom and left at about 11.40.
We made our way into Albany via the two rivers. We had our lunch in a picnic area by the Lower King River bridge and shortly afterwards stopped at a petrol station, where we filled up with diesel and gas. We drove down to Emu Point where everywhere looked absolutely lovely, clear blue sky, a beautiful view looking out over just water and green covered hills to the sea, land and sea all around us. There were lots of people just enjoying themselves around this point. We located a caravan site, that said you could hire bikes from and after an initial difficulty we did manage it and we then cycled the length of this bay down to Middleton Beach - very enjoyable. It was a cycling and walking track adjacent to the sea but there was a sort of shrubbery bit between us and the sea and sometimes you couldn't see out but other times you could.
We made our way into Albany via the two rivers. We had our lunch in a picnic area by the Lower King River bridge and shortly afterwards stopped at a petrol station, where we filled up with diesel and gas. We drove down to Emu Point where everywhere looked absolutely lovely, clear blue sky, a beautiful view looking out over just water and green covered hills to the sea, land and sea all around us. There were lots of people just enjoying themselves around this point. We located a caravan site, that said you could hire bikes from and after an initial difficulty we did manage it and we then cycled the length of this bay down to Middleton Beach - very enjoyable. It was a cycling and walking track adjacent to the sea but there was a sort of shrubbery bit between us and the sea and sometimes you couldn't see out but other times you could.
Rosie by Balancing Rock in the Porongurups
Adrian by 'Tiki' near Balancing Rock in the Porongurups
There were lots of little viewpoints and when we got to Middleton Beach, we bought a whippy 99 icecream and sat by the beach and ate that and we then cycled back again.
Now being four o'clock we drove along to Middleton beach where we decided to camp. Having pitched ourselves there we set off immediately for a walk, which went around the headland on a walkway, this campsite being right on the beach. So we walked across the beach to start on this walk, which was quite beautiful because of all the inlets and headlands, all covered in green and no sign of anything to destroy this beauty of this natural look. There was one old boat harboured out in the bay, but that was all we could see, apart from these headlands. Several other people were out walking too, and the exciting thing about being on this walk was that we saw several bandicoots. We photographed two of them - large rats really, but it was rather nice to see them.
Now being four o'clock we drove along to Middleton beach where we decided to camp. Having pitched ourselves there we set off immediately for a walk, which went around the headland on a walkway, this campsite being right on the beach. So we walked across the beach to start on this walk, which was quite beautiful because of all the inlets and headlands, all covered in green and no sign of anything to destroy this beauty of this natural look. There was one old boat harboured out in the bay, but that was all we could see, apart from these headlands. Several other people were out walking too, and the exciting thing about being on this walk was that we saw several bandicoots. We photographed two of them - large rats really, but it was rather nice to see them.
Adrian on a cycle from Emu Point to Middleton Beach
Having walked quite a long way, three quarters of an hour or more around the headland and not wanting to come back the same way the walk suddenly ended at a road part. The road was private and the other part of which went totally the wrong direction and being a headland it was just going on round it rather than back. We saw track, which we took, and one track after another with no signposts anywhere, it seemed that this walkway was just being made and not yet finished in lots of respects. With the light fading fast, we found ourselves eventually at Mount Adelaide, one of the viewpoints we were going to visit and this was strewn with all sorts of memorabilia of when the Americans were here as it was a submarine base in the war.
A bandicoot
Adrian spoke to a chap who would have given us a lift later when he was driving back down to the town, but he thought by then we might have found our way down, there was nothing marked on the map at all. But intrepid as we were, on we went and we did manage to find our way down, a bit touch and go because we weren't at all sure whether we could get down that way and the light was failing fast.
However we did and everything was good and we found ourselves back into the town, and then back along the beach to the campsite, where we set about Adrian cooking steak outside. It had been an excellent day, with lovely weather and all the strenuous things that we've done today.
However we did and everything was good and we found ourselves back into the town, and then back along the beach to the campsite, where we set about Adrian cooking steak outside. It had been an excellent day, with lovely weather and all the strenuous things that we've done today.
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View from the Rotary lookout on Mount Adelaide (streetview 2019)
Monday 27th April 84 km
It was a bank holiday here. We didn't have the early start to the day that we'd intended, our exertions of yesterday made it difficult for us to get up this morning, when it was nice and cosy in bed. We did have showers and hairwash again, very clean loos, there were even fresh flowers on my side, and when I came back Adrian was chatting to the chap next door who was on his own and was slowly travelling around in dormobile vehicle. A very interesting chap who obviously liked travel writers and knew about Herman Melville, hence things were all much later than usual. We had thought we'd have our early morning cup of tea on the beach, but we did have our tea and coffee on the beach at the end of breakfast, looking out at what must be one of the most beautiful views in the world. Adrian cleaned the windows and the van looked sparkling and we didn't leave until 10.20.
We drove first round the Marine Scenic Drive which was above where we walked last night, and then we made our way to Mount Clarence, which is just along from Mount Adelaide where we were last night. It was rather fitting on this Anzac Day public holiday to be there, as this is where the Anzac memorial was - a replica of one from Suez.
It was a bank holiday here. We didn't have the early start to the day that we'd intended, our exertions of yesterday made it difficult for us to get up this morning, when it was nice and cosy in bed. We did have showers and hairwash again, very clean loos, there were even fresh flowers on my side, and when I came back Adrian was chatting to the chap next door who was on his own and was slowly travelling around in dormobile vehicle. A very interesting chap who obviously liked travel writers and knew about Herman Melville, hence things were all much later than usual. We had thought we'd have our early morning cup of tea on the beach, but we did have our tea and coffee on the beach at the end of breakfast, looking out at what must be one of the most beautiful views in the world. Adrian cleaned the windows and the van looked sparkling and we didn't leave until 10.20.
We drove first round the Marine Scenic Drive which was above where we walked last night, and then we made our way to Mount Clarence, which is just along from Mount Adelaide where we were last night. It was rather fitting on this Anzac Day public holiday to be there, as this is where the Anzac memorial was - a replica of one from Suez.
From this point there was a very good viewpoint over Albany and all the surrounding area of this beautiful bay. We drove from there down into Albany itself, a very pleasant little place, it seemed a very happy sort of town, but not much open being a bank holiday. I located somewhere to take the latest film in to be developed and while that was being done, we had coffee in a little park opposite with some strange monument things in it.
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Anzac War Memorial at Mount Clarence, Albany (streetview 2023)
We had a little walk around by which time the photos were done, and we were very pleased, particularly as it was a film that had wound back a bit on film number three, but the pictures just went on as though nothing had happened, and we hadn't lost any at all, which was a delight to find.
Having had a quick look through them, we then drove off round to Torndirrup National Park to the south of Albany and facing back towards Albany itself. It was now lunchtime, but we had difficulty finding a lunch stop. We drove right down to Frenchmans Bay, but there was a steep road down to a beautiful bay and we didn't want to take the camper down there. So we walked down and there was a little area with lots of people happily picnicking, it being a Bank holiday. We drove up from there and to the Old Whaling Station, but again, nowhere suitable for stopping, so we then took a road to the Salmon Holes, and had our lunch sitting looking out over the sea, on this dark, dramatic and very indented coastline. We were now on the southern side of this peninsula, south of Albany and we had a short walk to look down to the beautiful sandy bay beneath us, but felt we didn't need to walk to it as we'll be walking to others afterwards.
In fact, the next one was the blowholes, which we walked to, and that was about 800 metres and rather precarious, I thought when we got there. Just on a steepish slope, the next thing being the sea beneath you, and it really was like a roaring dragon with spray coming up through a narrow slit in the rock. I certainly wouldn't have wanted to be there with young children - it did say lives have been lost and I wasn't surprised, but it was quite dramatic and a beautiful temperature for walking in. We had seen a dear little lizard on this walk and we then progressed to the two sights of the park, notably the bridge and the gap. This was a bridge of rock at the sea, absolutely enormous, quite mind boggling, and almost adjacent to it a huge deep vertical gap in the rock where the sea came in.
Having had a quick look through them, we then drove off round to Torndirrup National Park to the south of Albany and facing back towards Albany itself. It was now lunchtime, but we had difficulty finding a lunch stop. We drove right down to Frenchmans Bay, but there was a steep road down to a beautiful bay and we didn't want to take the camper down there. So we walked down and there was a little area with lots of people happily picnicking, it being a Bank holiday. We drove up from there and to the Old Whaling Station, but again, nowhere suitable for stopping, so we then took a road to the Salmon Holes, and had our lunch sitting looking out over the sea, on this dark, dramatic and very indented coastline. We were now on the southern side of this peninsula, south of Albany and we had a short walk to look down to the beautiful sandy bay beneath us, but felt we didn't need to walk to it as we'll be walking to others afterwards.
In fact, the next one was the blowholes, which we walked to, and that was about 800 metres and rather precarious, I thought when we got there. Just on a steepish slope, the next thing being the sea beneath you, and it really was like a roaring dragon with spray coming up through a narrow slit in the rock. I certainly wouldn't have wanted to be there with young children - it did say lives have been lost and I wasn't surprised, but it was quite dramatic and a beautiful temperature for walking in. We had seen a dear little lizard on this walk and we then progressed to the two sights of the park, notably the bridge and the gap. This was a bridge of rock at the sea, absolutely enormous, quite mind boggling, and almost adjacent to it a huge deep vertical gap in the rock where the sea came in.
Rosie on an unusual seat, Albany
There were little rails to stop you from falling in, but not a great deal of safety - they did tell you that your safety was your own responsibility.
We then drove out of Torndirrup National Park driving past Little Grove which was a nice area beside the sea and took a smaller road to what was called Denmark Road heading westward, some very pretty country and very green. We turned off after a few kilometres to a place by the name of Cosy Corner and here there was a free campsite right beside the beach. Our hearts sank because we saw a notice at the turn off to this place, saying strictly no camping from sometime in December to 22nd of April and it was with relief when we realised it was the 27th of April so it was okay. We got ourselves settled right by a walk onto another beautiful sandy beach with views right around to the park that we'd been in this morning round a big bay called Torbay but not much like our Torbay in that you can't see any habitation anywhere. We almost immediately walked out for a long walk of an hour right along this beach as far as we could, in what was a northeasterly direction and back again. It was very misty over the hills and we came back and Adrian cooked bacon omelette outside and then we had another indulged look at the photos.
We then drove out of Torndirrup National Park driving past Little Grove which was a nice area beside the sea and took a smaller road to what was called Denmark Road heading westward, some very pretty country and very green. We turned off after a few kilometres to a place by the name of Cosy Corner and here there was a free campsite right beside the beach. Our hearts sank because we saw a notice at the turn off to this place, saying strictly no camping from sometime in December to 22nd of April and it was with relief when we realised it was the 27th of April so it was okay. We got ourselves settled right by a walk onto another beautiful sandy beach with views right around to the park that we'd been in this morning round a big bay called Torbay but not much like our Torbay in that you can't see any habitation anywhere. We almost immediately walked out for a long walk of an hour right along this beach as far as we could, in what was a northeasterly direction and back again. It was very misty over the hills and we came back and Adrian cooked bacon omelette outside and then we had another indulged look at the photos.
'The Bridge' Torndirrup NP, Albany
Tuesday 28th April. 99 km
We had our early morning cup of tea on the beach with the sun just coming up above the clouds.
We had our early morning cup of tea on the beach with the sun just coming up above the clouds.
We then walked in the opposite direction along the beach and back and paddled a bit, we found the sea surprisingly warm. Our little spot was still in the shade, so we then got breakfast together and sat on plastic bags as seats on the beach to have our breakfast and left at 8.45.
We travelled a short way south into West Cape Howe National Park, and made for Shelly Beach which was very picturesque, but a long trail down there. When we got there we got in conversation with a chap in his 70s, he was caravanning there. Two very interesting points the first, he started talking about Devon, where his father had been born, and he said there was some sort of tragedy there, and he was talking about the book by Ken Small about Slapton Sands, which we had with us because Ali had brought it back to Australia. In chatting more, it turned out that his wife's son, was one of the two tourists on the London Bridge Rock when it collapsed on the Great Ocean Road and he showed us some photographs of this. That was such an amazing coincidence to me, somebody who knew all about that. When we finished our long conversation, we decided to go for a walk along the beach there. It had rained a bit in the night and as we set off across the beach, it started to rain again and my trousers got a bit wet from waves coming in, but we got very wet on our tops from the water coming down. As we were returning from the beach, the Chap was coming to meet us with some waterproofs. We returned to the van and changed into some dry things and decided to have our tea and coffee there, although it was still quite early and Adrian filled a bottle with some water which we're told was the best water in Australia. Adrian said the water in fact was just stream water but very clear. The rain continued as we drove towards Denmark and visibility wasn't good. When we got to Denmark, it was very grey, but it wasn't raining. We had decided to do a little walk here, which was either side of the river, so we drove down to a bridge near the mouth and had a very pleasant walk beside the river. In crossing it at Denmark, we went into a bakers and brought some rolls and cakes and walked back on the other side. It was sort of damping and pretty green. We saw a lot of birdlife, spoonbills, cormorants, egrets, a heron and various ducks and gulls and we'd heard moaning frogs. When we got back we had lunch sitting at the table outside the van overlooking the water, but unfortunately it came on with a little bit of rain just before I'd finished my cake. We next drove down the Ocean Road to Wilson Head where the rough sea was coming in and after snooze, we had a little walk here . The rough sea was on one side and we walked a little way to see the calm inlet on the other side, it was pretty cold at this point, but people were in surfing. We then drove back up to the main South Coast Road turning off again to William Bay National Park where we stopped at what was called the Green lagoon and walked down to a very nice attractive beach, it would have been lovely in hot weather. There were a lot of rocks out to sea making a lagoon with rough waves out to sea and then this calm bit, where one could swim if it was warmer.
We travelled a short way south into West Cape Howe National Park, and made for Shelly Beach which was very picturesque, but a long trail down there. When we got there we got in conversation with a chap in his 70s, he was caravanning there. Two very interesting points the first, he started talking about Devon, where his father had been born, and he said there was some sort of tragedy there, and he was talking about the book by Ken Small about Slapton Sands, which we had with us because Ali had brought it back to Australia. In chatting more, it turned out that his wife's son, was one of the two tourists on the London Bridge Rock when it collapsed on the Great Ocean Road and he showed us some photographs of this. That was such an amazing coincidence to me, somebody who knew all about that. When we finished our long conversation, we decided to go for a walk along the beach there. It had rained a bit in the night and as we set off across the beach, it started to rain again and my trousers got a bit wet from waves coming in, but we got very wet on our tops from the water coming down. As we were returning from the beach, the Chap was coming to meet us with some waterproofs. We returned to the van and changed into some dry things and decided to have our tea and coffee there, although it was still quite early and Adrian filled a bottle with some water which we're told was the best water in Australia. Adrian said the water in fact was just stream water but very clear. The rain continued as we drove towards Denmark and visibility wasn't good. When we got to Denmark, it was very grey, but it wasn't raining. We had decided to do a little walk here, which was either side of the river, so we drove down to a bridge near the mouth and had a very pleasant walk beside the river. In crossing it at Denmark, we went into a bakers and brought some rolls and cakes and walked back on the other side. It was sort of damping and pretty green. We saw a lot of birdlife, spoonbills, cormorants, egrets, a heron and various ducks and gulls and we'd heard moaning frogs. When we got back we had lunch sitting at the table outside the van overlooking the water, but unfortunately it came on with a little bit of rain just before I'd finished my cake. We next drove down the Ocean Road to Wilson Head where the rough sea was coming in and after snooze, we had a little walk here . The rough sea was on one side and we walked a little way to see the calm inlet on the other side, it was pretty cold at this point, but people were in surfing. We then drove back up to the main South Coast Road turning off again to William Bay National Park where we stopped at what was called the Green lagoon and walked down to a very nice attractive beach, it would have been lovely in hot weather. There were a lot of rocks out to sea making a lagoon with rough waves out to sea and then this calm bit, where one could swim if it was warmer.
Adrian with an early morning cup of tea at Cosy Corner near Albany
We walked up and over the headland of big flattish rocks to the next little cove which was called Elephant Rocks because the rocks are supposed to look like a herd of elephants going into the sea, but whatever, they were huge, great boulders of gigantic rocks. On the road back up from Wilson inlet, we went through an unsurfaced section and a steep bit of road which was quite hairy because after the rain, Adrian wasn't sure we would get up there, but we did. We now made our way along to Parry Road and down to Parry Beach where there was another campsite for which we had to pay four dollars. There were lots of secluded little spots – it would be lovely in hot weather. It had a beautiful beach, which we had short walk out on it - it was quite chilly. We were looking back to where we had been earlier on this afternoon. If the weather was hot it would be just spot on. Just before it got dark we watched a kookaburra just outside the van in the trees, collecting insects presumably to eat and afterwards we heard him cackle. I put some more of the last lot of photos into the album.
Green Lagoon, William Bay NP near Denmark
It was a pleasant walk, quite an autumnal feel in the late afternoon sunshine and when we returned we gathered wood ready for a fire. Adrian lit the fire and we cooked steak on the it and later crumpets as well.
The stars were out and a little thin moon, one of the magical evenings to remember of this trip.
Having supper by the campfire at the Mt Burnett Picnic Site
Wednesday 29th April. 94 km
We were deep in the shade in our spot, but in fact it was a sunny day, with a cool wind. We had a walk along the beach in the opposite direction along flat rocks interspersed with white sand and came back through the land bit to the very large campsite, and as it says in the book a real credit to the local community. There were two loo blocks, one we found out too late had hot showers in it and all this for $4 a night, the total for the two of us and a very pleasant place and looking out onto a beautiful beach - it would be lovely and shady in hot weather. Just as we were leaving, when Adrian was emptying the rubbish, he met a chap of Dutch descent who was living here with his second wife travelling around, he seemed a very genial fellow. . We keep meeting people who had sold their houses and just travelling. We didn't leave until almost 10.30.
We drove to the Walpole-Nornalup National Park and as luck would have it, just as we arrived a man was using a pneumatic drill by the carpark, so instead of having coffee in the van , I thought we would have some at the entrance - everywhere has coffee at their entrances - except this place. It was one time when I really could have done with a coffee. We headed for an area of tall giant tingle trees where they had made a walk 600 metres long up to 40 metres high around these trees. We had to pay $5 each for this and it perhaps would have been better if I hadn't paid the money and gone up there, because it wasn't very good for me. It was made out of slotted metal stuff so that you could see down below and although the barriers at the side were at waist level, I suddenly didn't like the experience at all. Between each little platform there were long spans, which did sway a bit, but not quite like Capilano, but it certainly didn't have a lot of enjoyment factor for me.
We were deep in the shade in our spot, but in fact it was a sunny day, with a cool wind. We had a walk along the beach in the opposite direction along flat rocks interspersed with white sand and came back through the land bit to the very large campsite, and as it says in the book a real credit to the local community. There were two loo blocks, one we found out too late had hot showers in it and all this for $4 a night, the total for the two of us and a very pleasant place and looking out onto a beautiful beach - it would be lovely and shady in hot weather. Just as we were leaving, when Adrian was emptying the rubbish, he met a chap of Dutch descent who was living here with his second wife travelling around, he seemed a very genial fellow. . We keep meeting people who had sold their houses and just travelling. We didn't leave until almost 10.30.
We drove to the Walpole-Nornalup National Park and as luck would have it, just as we arrived a man was using a pneumatic drill by the carpark, so instead of having coffee in the van , I thought we would have some at the entrance - everywhere has coffee at their entrances - except this place. It was one time when I really could have done with a coffee. We headed for an area of tall giant tingle trees where they had made a walk 600 metres long up to 40 metres high around these trees. We had to pay $5 each for this and it perhaps would have been better if I hadn't paid the money and gone up there, because it wasn't very good for me. It was made out of slotted metal stuff so that you could see down below and although the barriers at the side were at waist level, I suddenly didn't like the experience at all. Between each little platform there were long spans, which did sway a bit, but not quite like Capilano, but it certainly didn't have a lot of enjoyment factor for me.
On top of Mt Burnett
At the end of this walk we were able to go on a boardwalk at ground level through the same lot of trees and this I found more enjoyable and perhaps more impressive. The trees are huge, a lot of them have been burned over the years and are hollowed out and dead in the centre but still carrying on growing. When we got back although it was turned midday, I decided it was time for my coffee. The workmen having now gone off for their lunch we decided to make this our lunch stop as well and I made up some tuna rolls and we sat on little posts outside the van under these enormous tingle trees.
Just before Walpole we turned off on a little tourist drive around the knoll. This was very attractive with a double inlet, the Walpole inlet and the Nornalup inlet one on top of another. We drove around a very pretty headland covered in trees and we stopped briefly but there was still a cold wind blowing. We stopped in the sleepy little town of Walpole, went into a Foodland and got a few bits and pieces and also got some diesel and then walked across the road where in lovely parkland was set a little tourist information where we got a map. We stopped at a viewpoint just after Walpole, very tall trees and had a view down over this lovely inlet. It was very, very green here and we saw scarlet robins both male and female with vividly orange breasts, much brighter than robins in England. We had intended driving down the Mandalay road to Mandalay beach which was eight kilometres, but there was a sign up saying at the moment it was suitable for four wheel drive only, so that thwarted that idea.
We turned off to Centre Road Crossing where in our book it said there was little campsite by Deep River. This was five kilometres down an unmade up road and when we got there, there was a lovely deep river, and it was a very pretty place. There was little hut there as it was near a long walking trail and the place seemed to be taken over by a group with a couple of vehicles and some women in state of unclad, the naked one obviously had been having a wash and another woman sitting with next to nothing on, and we felt we wouldn't have been too welcome there and couldn't have done our own thing, so we returned.
A mile or two up the road, there was a lay at a place called Mount Burnett, and so we decided to stop there in a picnic area, beside a fireplace. We went first for a kilometre long walk, Burnett walk it was called, but didn't say it was this entailed going up a little hill, quite steeply and the path as often in Australia was sometimes difficult to follow.
Just before Walpole we turned off on a little tourist drive around the knoll. This was very attractive with a double inlet, the Walpole inlet and the Nornalup inlet one on top of another. We drove around a very pretty headland covered in trees and we stopped briefly but there was still a cold wind blowing. We stopped in the sleepy little town of Walpole, went into a Foodland and got a few bits and pieces and also got some diesel and then walked across the road where in lovely parkland was set a little tourist information where we got a map. We stopped at a viewpoint just after Walpole, very tall trees and had a view down over this lovely inlet. It was very, very green here and we saw scarlet robins both male and female with vividly orange breasts, much brighter than robins in England. We had intended driving down the Mandalay road to Mandalay beach which was eight kilometres, but there was a sign up saying at the moment it was suitable for four wheel drive only, so that thwarted that idea.
We turned off to Centre Road Crossing where in our book it said there was little campsite by Deep River. This was five kilometres down an unmade up road and when we got there, there was a lovely deep river, and it was a very pretty place. There was little hut there as it was near a long walking trail and the place seemed to be taken over by a group with a couple of vehicles and some women in state of unclad, the naked one obviously had been having a wash and another woman sitting with next to nothing on, and we felt we wouldn't have been too welcome there and couldn't have done our own thing, so we returned.
A mile or two up the road, there was a lay at a place called Mount Burnett, and so we decided to stop there in a picnic area, beside a fireplace. We went first for a kilometre long walk, Burnett walk it was called, but didn't say it was this entailed going up a little hill, quite steeply and the path as often in Australia was sometimes difficult to follow.
Tree Top Trail', near Walpole
Rosie in the 'Valley of the Giants', near Walpole
Thursday 30th April, 242 km
We awoke late and despite being on a main road, I hadn't heard any cars at all. One or two, literally, went by in the morning while we had our breakfast, sitting outside at the picnic table. It was a cloudy morning, and very still. We drove north on the Southwestern highway, through wonderful country of huge trees, we were in the area of these massive south-western forests and it was partly the Shannon National Park. Our first stop was there, where there was a car trail through the park, but initially we went on a shortish walking trail down to the river and back which was quite magnificent. It was absolutely still, just sounds of nature, occasionally you'd hear a car go by, shattering the peace because it was so still you could hear every sound. It had rained heavily here, though not on us and everywhere was damp, tall and green and every now and again water would sprinkle down from the trees. We came back to the van and had our coffee and biscuits sitting in warmish sunshine.
A gentleman came up again and envied our Coaster. We progressed on this tree trail which was 20 to 23 kilometres, and how the interesting thing was, as when you were by a certain little symbol you stopped there and a recorded message was given to you on the radio telling you something of the surrounding area and the surrounding trees.
We awoke late and despite being on a main road, I hadn't heard any cars at all. One or two, literally, went by in the morning while we had our breakfast, sitting outside at the picnic table. It was a cloudy morning, and very still. We drove north on the Southwestern highway, through wonderful country of huge trees, we were in the area of these massive south-western forests and it was partly the Shannon National Park. Our first stop was there, where there was a car trail through the park, but initially we went on a shortish walking trail down to the river and back which was quite magnificent. It was absolutely still, just sounds of nature, occasionally you'd hear a car go by, shattering the peace because it was so still you could hear every sound. It had rained heavily here, though not on us and everywhere was damp, tall and green and every now and again water would sprinkle down from the trees. We came back to the van and had our coffee and biscuits sitting in warmish sunshine.
A gentleman came up again and envied our Coaster. We progressed on this tree trail which was 20 to 23 kilometres, and how the interesting thing was, as when you were by a certain little symbol you stopped there and a recorded message was given to you on the radio telling you something of the surrounding area and the surrounding trees.
We discovered that there are three main types of the huge trees in this area and all were types of eucalypt the Karri, the Marri and the Jarrah, I don't think I will ever distinguish them.
We went back out to the main road - the tourist drive did continue for about as much going on the other side of the highway but we continued towards Manjimup and stopped just before, for lunch, at the Diamond Tree. This was once a tree 53 metres in height, now I reduced to 51m - 150 feet high, and you could climb up it by rungs out the side, to a lookout at the top and it was used in the past as the lookout for forest fires, braver people than I, as I only went up the first five or six rungs at that was enough. We sat and had our lunch here including the rest of the crumpets, and there was an amazing amount of birdlife around us.
We stopped in Bridgetown by the Blackwood River in a little park adjacent to it for Adrian to have a snooze, and then we filled up with water. There was a lot of green fields around here. We were aware of quite a bit of autumn colour too, but in addition to that there were plantation of fir trees. We went up two long steep hills out of Bridgetown and were trying to head for Bunbury to collect our post there hopefully, but things were a bit against us. There were many roadworks making it very dusty, then they were burning off of the forest beside us, and finally there were a large number of double logging lorries, so all smoke and dust as Adrian said. We were now coming into market gardening country and lots of fruit trees here, but interspersed with other sorts of trees too. We drove through Donnybrook, which was the apple growing centre of this area, and there were apple trees in profusion. We continued now to Bunbury and located the post office where we collected the post and then went off to find somewhere to stay for the night. We drove down beside the sea and in a place I thought was a bit of it like an English resort of Bournemouth or somewhere. but nothing showed up really. Eventually, we found ourselves a little spot where you could park a car and it was for four wheel drives to go through a track to the sea. We then read our post, and we had a postcard from Simon from France, a letter from Emma with photos of her new house, a letter from Ruby, and letter from Harry and Maureen which had the tragic news of Andy Fullers death which left us both feeling absolutely devastated. We walked out along the track to the sea just before it got dark, the sun was just setting when we got there, and I'd seen a kangaroo silhouetted against the sky it was all very beautiful. We walked back to the van and got something to eat and spent a very quiet evening.
We went back out to the main road - the tourist drive did continue for about as much going on the other side of the highway but we continued towards Manjimup and stopped just before, for lunch, at the Diamond Tree. This was once a tree 53 metres in height, now I reduced to 51m - 150 feet high, and you could climb up it by rungs out the side, to a lookout at the top and it was used in the past as the lookout for forest fires, braver people than I, as I only went up the first five or six rungs at that was enough. We sat and had our lunch here including the rest of the crumpets, and there was an amazing amount of birdlife around us.
We stopped in Bridgetown by the Blackwood River in a little park adjacent to it for Adrian to have a snooze, and then we filled up with water. There was a lot of green fields around here. We were aware of quite a bit of autumn colour too, but in addition to that there were plantation of fir trees. We went up two long steep hills out of Bridgetown and were trying to head for Bunbury to collect our post there hopefully, but things were a bit against us. There were many roadworks making it very dusty, then they were burning off of the forest beside us, and finally there were a large number of double logging lorries, so all smoke and dust as Adrian said. We were now coming into market gardening country and lots of fruit trees here, but interspersed with other sorts of trees too. We drove through Donnybrook, which was the apple growing centre of this area, and there were apple trees in profusion. We continued now to Bunbury and located the post office where we collected the post and then went off to find somewhere to stay for the night. We drove down beside the sea and in a place I thought was a bit of it like an English resort of Bournemouth or somewhere. but nothing showed up really. Eventually, we found ourselves a little spot where you could park a car and it was for four wheel drives to go through a track to the sea. We then read our post, and we had a postcard from Simon from France, a letter from Emma with photos of her new house, a letter from Ruby, and letter from Harry and Maureen which had the tragic news of Andy Fullers death which left us both feeling absolutely devastated. We walked out along the track to the sea just before it got dark, the sun was just setting when we got there, and I'd seen a kangaroo silhouetted against the sky it was all very beautiful. We walked back to the van and got something to eat and spent a very quiet evening.
Sun through the trees, Shannon NP
Port Lincoln to Bunbry